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The non return valve is part of the N249 system, if you are removing the n249 system then you don't need the non return valve do you?
If you take some time to study the diagram and think about how the system works it should all click into place.
The non return valve is exactly what it says, it doesnt allow the air to return back down the line. I imagine its because if the valve so it works more effiecently but if you have done away with it then its of no relevance to the setup. My pictures i posted show simply what your doing. Instead of the valve opening the DV its done by good old vaccum from the manifold, hence why you have a spring in the dump valve, once the vaccum exceeds the pre-load on the spring it will then pull the valve open and chhhhh it dumps the pressure. With the N249 valve it has no vaccum at the valve untill it opens when told to by the ECU, So if it looses traction when you accelerate it operates the valve and dumps the pressure there and then, hence lack of power. Its a very simple & basic system once you learn how it works, same as the N75 valve.
Its a simple modification that doesnt effect any major components of the engine, its the same as binning an EGR valve, take the valve off put a blanking plate in and bolt it back on, or if your not too botherd do away with the valve compleatly, same principle, either keep the valve attached and bung the ends up or do away with it. You also mention it sucking dirt into the engine, once the hoses are cut from manifold & DV and you bridge the valve, the valve is compleatly isolated and even if it sucks up a budgie it wont get in the engine
Here is the N249 system highlighted red & green
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There is basically what your doing, as you can see the vaccum goes to the valve and when its shut dump valve is close, as soon as the ecu opens the valve then the dump valve opens.
Its a simple modification that doesnt effect any major components of the engine, its the same as binning an EGR valve, take the valve off put a blanking plate in and bolt it back on, or if your not too botherd do away with the valve compleatly, same principle, either keep the valve attached and bung the ends up or do away with it. You also mention it sucking dirt into the engine, once the hoses are cut from manifold & DV and you bridge the valve, the valve is compleatly isolated and even if it sucks up a budgie it wont get in the engine
Here is the N249 system highlighted red & green
From:
To:
There is basically what your doing, as you can see the vaccum goes to the valve and when its shut dump valve is close, as soon as the ecu opens the valve then the dump valve opens.
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yeh i no this matey, but none of what iv read is as simple as pics is this thread
that looks easy, thanx
TBH I very rarely turn mine off, good quality tyres and a bit of right foot control and it hardly ever cuts in.
I only ever run with Bridgestone Potenza's (re050a) ~ still cuts in all the time, hence why its always off.
200bhp
Guest
All the pictures / technical replies seem to be for the LCR.
Whilst I presume my LC is comparable I can't see anyone confirming that it is.
I just disconnected the pipe from the DV and capped it, then T'd into the FPR vac hose and connected that to the DV.
But the TCS still works.
Trying to find a cure for a running problem I then disconnected the MAF and the TCS is then disabled (but obviously I'd rather have a connected MAF).
Do I need to disconnect the valve from the intake (awkward on mine as the LPG conversion doesn't leave much room) - as I have disconnected the N249 valve from the DV, how is is working ?
Whilst I presume my LC is comparable I can't see anyone confirming that it is.
I just disconnected the pipe from the DV and capped it, then T'd into the FPR vac hose and connected that to the DV.
But the TCS still works.
Trying to find a cure for a running problem I then disconnected the MAF and the TCS is then disabled (but obviously I'd rather have a connected MAF).
Do I need to disconnect the valve from the intake (awkward on mine as the LPG conversion doesn't leave much room) - as I have disconnected the N249 valve from the DV, how is is working ?
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TCS uses more than just the N249 to control traction.. these cars have fly by wire throttle so the tcs can chop the throttle in this manner; it can also apply one or both front brakes. Bypassing the N249 means that when the TCS has stopped doing its thing boost does not need to build up again; it should have been retained.. as that's how I understand it. your method of bypassing the n249 sounds correct.
200bhp
Guest
Thanks... that makes sense.
So is there any way to actually disable the Traction Control as all my searching simply reveals to disconnect the N249 valve which whilst it may help to get back on boost doesn't actually disable the TCS.
On E46 BMW's some people reverse engineer the switch so it was normally off but pressing it, enabled it, which is the best way IMO but failing that I'd rather not have it at all.
So is there any way to actually disable the Traction Control as all my searching simply reveals to disconnect the N249 valve which whilst it may help to get back on boost doesn't actually disable the TCS.
On E46 BMW's some people reverse engineer the switch so it was normally off but pressing it, enabled it, which is the best way IMO but failing that I'd rather not have it at all.
either turn it off when you start the car using the button or unplug the hub sensor to disable tcs and abs (and esp on LCRs)
Not only LCR's have ESP my LC has it too
I can vouch that nothing works, TC, ABS or ESP when a ABS sensor is removed/unplugged.
Surely it's better to just press the button and have the option to have the ESP on or off rather than to disconnect the ABS sensor?
That of course is a fair comment Danny but I'm not sure how many people on here take their cars to the track. I'm sure the ESP has saved quite a few people on here from tears before bedtime even if they won't admit it.
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