cupra dies and comes back to life

[SNOWZ]

make sure in control panel > system > hardware > device manager ...that you have set the usb to the same port as the comm port in vagcom

where in that menu can you change the com port?
i go into that and all it gives me is:

scan for hardware changes
or
properties

looked in both these and nothing about changing com port,

my cable is usb and in vagcom it gives you choice of com1,2,3,4 or usb

in vag com when i select usb and test it says port ok interface not found, so does that mean its found the usb cable but not the car??

The bloke just txt me saying send it back and he'll send another incase its faulty.

 

[nogutsnoglory]

select the usb cable when it comes up under the ports (com&lpt) , > properties > port settings > advanced > change comm. change it to one not in use between 1 and 4 like 2 or something and then select comm 2 on vagcom

 

[SNOWZ]

select the usb cable when it comes up under the ports (com&lpt) , > properties > port settings > advanced > change comm. change it to one not in use between 1 and 4 like 2 or something and then select comm 2 on vagcom

didnt go into advanced options, just done that might pop out to the car and try, i put it on com1 as some of the others were in use.

will update after

thanks

 

[nogutsnoglory]

just match up the comm ports and you should be ok, comm 2 is the one i use

 

[SNOWZ]

that worked, changed it from com8 to com 2 and it found it straight away


went into the auto scan, had a choice of 2 ibiza's, a 6L or 6K

tried the 6K one, it started scan said no fault codes found on address 1 but went on to address 2 and a window popped up saying vagcom stoped working because of a problem and windows would notify me of a solution if there was one.

could this just be because its a freeware version??

cant do anything else keeps doing that

 

[nogutsnoglory]

go to the select control module section, then click 01 engine, it should read your ecu then click fault codes

 

[SNOWZ]

go to the select control module section, then click 01 engine, it should read your ecu then click fault codes

will try it tmrw now as back in the warm as it cold as fook now.


thanks for all your help nogutsnoglory couldn't of done it without your help, will try again tmrw after work and update you

thanks again

Richard

 

[nogutsnoglory]

get back out there you wuss

id never settle knowing i might be able to solve something lol

copy the codes (by clicking copy codes) and paste into notepad or straight into here, then post up 2moro, you might find clearing the codes will help (if there are any) but there will more than likely be the same code coming back up if the same thing keeps happening

 

[SNOWZ]

haven't had a chance yet to get and look on vag com but will do tmrw.

but the car cut out again on the mrs today on way home, she was driving along again and it just cut out, i told her to wait 10mins and try it but nothing, this wento on for 40 mins till i went and had a look.

i locked the car waited 5mins unlocked the car and it started straight up. i only tried this because every time its happened we left the car and locked it while waiting, and when gone back it started, and she was in the car 40mins but nothing happened not untill i locked it.


Could there be a problem with the immobilizer?
could it cut in on its own.

will get on vagcom tmrw and scan and check what i can..

 

[SNOWZ]

got vagcom and cable to work on my old windows xp laptop.

found a fault code and said engine speed sensor fault, no signal.

from a post further up on this thread someone else said about this and called it a crank sensor.

is it expensive part to buy, i see it was a pig to fit too

hopefully getting somewhere now

 

[nogutsnoglory]

PM hooch as i think hes got one spare for sale, but they are a pain to fit apparantly.

I thought it was going to be that

 

[SNOWZ]

PM hooch as i think hes got one spare for sale, but they are a pain to fit apparantly.

I thought it was going to be that

yeah got it to work on old laptop and got it to scan,

read a few other post about peoples cars cutting out when hot and not starting untill cold and was speed sensor.

will pm him now then try and get home without cutting out

 

[nogutsnoglory]

so was that the only fault that came up?
did you clear the codes afterwards

 

[SNOWZ]

yeah that was the only fault code, i will post it up on here l8r as the other laptop went flat.
and cleared them, it only cuts out when warm so avoiding driving far till sorted


got a couple of prices for the sensor:

£33 + vat non gen
£85 inc vat gen

big difference but would rather get the right one as i have had a couple of non gen coils and can notice the difference, they aren't as good

 

[robreidmotors]

On the speed sensor because of the large price, might be worth looking at the connection to see if its clean. If youre lucky might just need the connections cleaning, as they get a lot of moisture and road dirt.

Seems to be a few people having the same issues with that sensor, Mr Sensor Manufacturer is a happy bunny

 

[SNOWZ]

i read on other threads that they are a pig to fit, is it really as bad as they say,

I'm a experienced mechanic and worked on many different cars but not done anything on a seat as of yet.

Will check the connections but while i'm there may as well change it as it saves doing it twice as i will have to use a friend of a friends garage to work in the dry when he's got a quiet day.

 

[robreidmotors]

Someone on here did a write up of it, see if i can find it.

Think it involved removing the starter motor to get to it, ill have a look

 

[robreidmotors]

courtesy of Clowntype

replaced the g28 sensor (dealer £150, ecp £90(they do a cheaper one but not worth the saving in my opinion))

tools
sockets 10mm,13mm longwall, 16mm,17mm big sockets 3/4 drive various extensions
allen key 5mm to fit in end of socket
long flat screwdriver

put jack under bellhousing/engine join
undo 3 starter motor bolts
(take 2 off 13mm nuts off that secure cables/clips(one on top bolt one on front bottom bolt)
then you have 2 off 16mm bolts(top and bottom to rear of car, and 1 off 17mm closest to front of car)

jack up approx inch

remove 17mm bolt from top of engine mount(long extension in from the top)

take 10mm bolt off bracket( holds cable/pipe control clip)

bit of jiggery pokery and that bracket will come out through the top allowing you straight in to the sensor

i would take the time to clean the area all around the sensor so you're not pushing crap back into the hole with the new sensor

then you need a 5mm allen key on a medium extension go over the front crossmember and under the 2 hoses, you'll see the position off your new one if you're not sure

undo the bolt and then you'll need a bit of leverage against the engine just to 'pop' the sensor out (long flat screwdriver should do it)

then remember the routing of the cable when you remove it for putting the new one in.

put the new one in the hole it should be loose, spin it to locate the bolt screw the bolt in until it just takes the tension then use a lever against the cross member to 'pop' it in(i used a long socket extension) then tighten the screw

assemble in reverse

DONE

 

[SNOWZ]

courtesy of Clowntype

replaced the g28 sensor (dealer £150, ecp £90(they do a cheaper one but not worth the saving in my opinion))

tools
sockets 10mm,13mm longwall, 16mm,17mm big sockets 3/4 drive various extensions
allen key 5mm to fit in end of socket
long flat screwdriver

put jack under bellhousing/engine join
undo 3 starter motor bolts
(take 2 off 13mm nuts off that secure cables/clips(one on top bolt one on front bottom bolt)
then you have 2 off 16mm bolts(top and bottom to rear of car, and 1 off 17mm closest to front of car)

jack up approx inch

remove 17mm bolt from top of engine mount(long extension in from the top)

take 10mm bolt off bracket( holds cable/pipe control clip)

bit of jiggery pokery and that bracket will come out through the top allowing you straight in to the sensor

i would take the time to clean the area all around the sensor so you're not pushing crap back into the hole with the new sensor

then you need a 5mm allen key on a medium extension go over the front crossmember and under the 2 hoses, you'll see the position off your new one if you're not sure

undo the bolt and then you'll need a bit of leverage against the engine just to 'pop' the sensor out (long flat screwdriver should do it)

then remember the routing of the cable when you remove it for putting the new one in.

put the new one in the hole it should be loose, spin it to locate the bolt screw the bolt in until it just takes the tension then use a lever against the cross member to 'pop' it in(i used a long socket extension) then tighten the screw

assemble in reverse

DONE

cheers for that, doesn't sound too bad just need to get under the car.

if i can fit a steering rack on a clio 16v and clutch on renault 19 16v on my drive then i could do that in a garage

if you have done any of the above you know they are a fooker to do

 

[h17och]

i think they are more than 86quid. i paid sumink like £130 iirc

not too bad to do. just a squeeze