Day running lights on Leon Mark 1

mikeholroyd

Guest
Hi folk

I've been using a microCAN lead with VCDS/VAGCOM to set up my Skoda Octavia mark 2 for various things, including drive away locking, Scandanavian day running lights etc, and I was wondering if there is the same provision in the Leon mark 1?

I know I'm going to have to get hold of a hex-can lead rather than the micro CAN, but are these settings there in a 2002 model, 1.6S? Also, would the same options that come up for my Octavia be there for the Leon throughout the different menus, or is the set up totally different?

Running VCDS release 908.

Many thanks

Mike
 

mikeholroyd

Guest
OK, job done!

I've found out it couldn't be done with programming, not even at the dealers, so I've installed 2 relays, ignition switching side and dipped headlights, from the main fuse box feed and into the back of the individual fuses.

Everything now working a treat!

And with the Leon being in Platinum Silver, it no longer just blends into the colour of the road. I'm a great believer in being seen -- supposed I should have gone for a yellow 'un!

Mike
 
Last edited by a moderator:

mikeholroyd

Guest
Here's the details of exactly what I've done

Remove the drivers side lower dash trim, the fusebox cover at the drivers end of the dash, and take out the securing screws for the fuse box itself.

Both relays are identical, and have the standard terminals 30 positive, 87 switched output, 85 earth and 86 switching supply. Terminal 87A is a switched output when the relay is not energised, and so is not used.

Relay 1 Positive supply to relay pin 30 taken from the 30 terminal that is marked up on the bus rail at the bottom of the relay box, ignition switched input to relay pin 86 taken from the 15 terminal of the bus rail, and the output from relay pin 87 attached to the input side of both the 5 amp fuse 22 for the side lights left and fuse 23 side light right and also to the input side of the 5 amp fuse 4 for the rear number plate lights. Relay pin 85 connected to a good existing earth point near to the fuse box. You need to put a small diode (IN4007) in each line to the sidelight fuses so that the parking lights still operate independently)

Relay 2 Positive supply to relay pin 30 taken from the 30 terminal that is marked up on the bus rail at the bottom of the relay box, ignition switched input to relay pin 86 taken from the 15 terminal of the bus rail, and the output from relay pin 87 attached to the input side of the 10 amp fuse 20 for the dipped beam headlights. Relay pin 85 connected to a good existing earth point near to the fuse box

The 2 relays have then been taped together, and then to the fusebox itself.

All the wiring has been neatly stored behind the fusebox, and the fusebox reinstalled without any problem. The biggest job has been reinstalling the dash panel, but with patience, this has gone back without any clips breaking.

Finally replace the outer fusebox cover, and JOB DONE!

Hope this helps

Mike
 
Last edited by a moderator:

dholdi

Active Member
Jul 3, 2008
931
4
Preston
Nice, thanks for sharing. Just so I've got this clear in my mind this switches low beam on only when you turn on the ignition ?
 

mikeholroyd

Guest
Nice, thanks for sharing. Just so I've got this clear in my mind this switches low beam on only when you turn on the ignition ?

It's got sidelights, tail lights, number plate lights and dipped beam headlights on whenever the ignition is on. The lights all switch on and off with the ignition, and for some reason, don't know why but this is useful, they go off whilst the key is turned to the engine start position, so there isn't a greater load on the battery whilst cranking the engine over. It has not altered the fact that when the light switch is in the headlight position, the headlights do not come on unless the ignition is on, so you can't leave the headlights on at all once you take the key out

The high beam position on the indicator stalk does not bring on high beam whilst the DRLs are on, you need to physically switch the lights on to get high beam. Also, because of the way the switch is made, the light switch also needs to be on to work the front and rear fogs.

Absolutely delighted the way this modification has gone, and even had to explain what I'd done to a technician from Hobin Seat in Preston today when I took the car in to get a new key coded!

PS, Where in Preston are you based? I'm just behind Police HQ in New Longton.

Mike
 

dholdi

Active Member
Jul 3, 2008
931
4
Preston
High beam still works when you pull the stick back tho ?
I'm the other side of Preston from you near :worship:Deepdale:worship:
 

mikeholroyd

Guest
High beam still works when you pull the stick back tho ?
I'm the other side of Preston from you near :worship:Deepdale:worship:

Oh yes, normal headlight flash still there, no changes al all. The original lighting system of low/high beam,fog lights and headlight flash are all still intact and working as original, only change that I've made is the ignition switched side and dipped heads as well. So in fact, if the ignition is on (and therefore DRLs as well) and you switch the light switch on to headlights, absolutely nothing changes, except the functions of low/high beam and fogs now become available.

Even though I say it myself, I love it, much more visible to other road users, (there's always a question on insurance accident report forms asking "What lights were displayed?"), and no chance whatsoever of forgetting the lights at dusk -- easy in the Leon as the dash lights are on all the time. And on a final note, DRLs will be compulsory from 2011 on all new cars -- I know older cars don't specifically need them, but at least I know I'm right up to date with the latest legislation.

Seing you're a fellow Lily White :worship: if you want to meet up somewhere to take a look at what I've done, give me a PM with your mobile. I need a few more days on here before I can PM anyone myself!

Mike
 
Jan 22, 2007
2,074
0
some may say lala land....
mike, been outside and had the panel off, don't ask, and can see the relays i think you mean.
numbered 53 x2 off, 109, 100, 103 & big beast 377
I'm guessing all work was done on 53? or am i so wide it's unreal.

ta
 

mikeholroyd

Guest
mike, been outside and had the panel off, don't ask, and can see the relays i think you mean.
numbered 53 x2 off, 109, 100, 103 & big beast 377
I'm guessing all work was done on 53? or am i so wide it's unreal.

ta

No, mate, the relays I mentioned I have put in myself. These new relays are wired into the back of the fusebox, will post a wiring diagram here later as an edit to this post.
Bear with me!

Mike

OK, problem here, the forum won't allow me to upload this as I already have maximum uploads.
PM me with your email address and I'll send you a copy in PDF or publisher format
 
Last edited by a moderator:

sheffboy

avoiding potholes
May 25, 2007
655
1
mike, been outside and had the panel off, don't ask, and can see the relays i think you mean.
numbered 53 x2 off, 109, 100, 103 & big beast 377
I'm guessing all work was done on 53? or am i so wide it's unreal.

ta

I wouldnt recommend this if your running HIDS.

Hid bulbs need to be switched on and left to reach working temp before powering down.

Turning them on and off in quick succession will screw the bulb quicker and possibly shag the ballast over time.

with this set up your going to turn the key, the hids will fire then when you start the ignition the hids will switch off then fire again. not good for HIDS, especially our cheap conversion kits.
 

mikeholroyd

Guest
I wouldnt recommend this if your running HIDS.

Hid bulbs need to be switched on and left to reach working temp before powering down.

Turning them on and off in quick succession will screw the bulb quicker and possibly shag the ballast over time.

with this set up your going to turn the key, the hids will fire then when you start the ignition the hids will switch off then fire again. not good for HIDS, especially our cheap conversion kits.

AGREED! Not for use with HID kits
 
Chris Knott Insurance - Competitive quotes for forum members