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ECU warning light LCR 2003

Kelman70

Guest
Hey folks i am new to this site and i am looking for some help with a problem i am having with my LCR 2003.

A few weeks ago i was doing a usual trip out to my other halfs parents house approx 7miles about 2 miles in i looked down and noticed the engine warning light had illuminated. the car seemed to be running fine but seemed as if it was lacking performance slightly (eg when you floored it it didnt seem as quick as usual) i arrived at my destination turned off the ingnition then started it again the car was idling at around 2500rpm and when i pressed the throttle it would backfire and splutter. turned the car off again and tried it a few hours later the car drove fine but light was still on. my mate works at garage and has a diagnostic tool which he used to determine the problem we got a handfull of codes which included:-

coolant temp sensor
cam position sensor
multiple misfire on various cylinders
charger recirculating pressure problem
and a few others which i cant remember but will get the print out tommorow and let you know.

aswell as all these problems the car also takes ages to start maybe 5-6 consecutive attemps before it will fire up


we have fitted a new coolant temp sensor cleared the codes and took it for a drive everything seemed fine until i floored it up through the gears and when it hut high revs in 3rd the car started to misfire and the engine warning light would flash for a few seconds then go off when we returned we checked the fault codes again it had the cam position sensor/multiple misfire/charger recirc problem

i have replaced the spark plugs as they were black, the car seems to be running really rich

we then fitted a new cam position sensor cleared the codes and took the car for a drive, within minutes the light was on again and read the same codes as above.

i am really stuck with this now and dont know what to do next, the car has never gave me any problems before other than the central locking control unit giving up the ghost.

i also tried disconnecting the MAF to see if this was a problem.

i have a bailey dump valve fitted aswell would this give off any fault codes (because you have to blank off some original hoses etc)

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

i will post the exact codes and descriptions 2moro.

Right heres the three latest fault codes

16727 P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor (A) circuit bank 1: high

17608 P1200 Recirculating Valve for turbocharger- N249: Mechanical Malfunction

17705 P1297 Connection turbocharger - throttle valve pressure hose


It seems like something is making the timing advance/retard causing dificulty to start and sluggish running but i dont know whats causing it.

2moro we are going to try and reconnect the original dump valve and see if the two boost pressure related codes disappear

Any ideas as to what to try next.
 
I'd change the Bailey DV and if its a DV rather than a re-circ thats causing the error code.

Spark plugs - Which ones did you use? Check to see that they are in there tight and that the coil packs are in fully and connected.

If your clearing the codes and they're coming back on the cam position sensor, double check fitment and connections.
 
DPJ:- Yes it is a whooshy atmmosphere one but it isnt very loud, you have to take off the original plastic recirculating dump valve and blank of both connections and also blank off the vacuum line that comes from the electronic switch thing that goes to the top of the original dump valve, you have to then cut the induction hose and fit a t-piece which the bailey valve connects to and run a put a tpiece in the vacuum line that connects into the other side of the electronic switch thing.

Dan Smith:- I removed the bailey today and refitted the original recirc dump valve, the two codes below

17608 P1200 Recirculating Valve for turbocharger- N249: Mechanical Malfunction

17705 P1297 Connection turbocharger - throttle valve pressure hose

have now disappeared when we cleared the codes but the camshaft position sensor code is still there.

It was NGKR spark plugs that i used, the same ones that were in before, they are definately tight and the coil packs are fully engaged.

I phoned a Seat Specialist i found on a google search and they have told me that it could possibly be the hydraulic unit that controls the VVC part of the timing apparently one camshaft is driven by the timing belt and the other camshaft is driven by a chain which is connected to the other end of the Camshaft that is driven by the timing belt, there is some sort of hydraulic tensioner that keeps the chain/timing in synchronisation and if this is faulty it can throw the reading which is being picked up by the Camshaft position sensor, has anyone had this problem before??????????

At the moment the car will start after 3 attempts with the following symptoms

Attempt 1, just turns over and nothing happens

Attempt 2 turns over and almost starts (sometimes the low oil pressure light comes on) then backfires when you turn ignition off

Attempt 3 engine finally fires into life and seems to run fine, but by this time the engine light is on and the camshaft sensor has registered a fault.


If anyone out there has had a similar problem i would really appreciate some help with this?:cry::cry::cry:
 
When you open the drivers door after not being in it for a long time, do you hear a pump start and last for a few seconds?
 
Flashing engine warning lights and the misfire codes are down to coilpacks.

Common fault and probably 1 of your main problems.

Atmospheric DV's, a problem in themselves. Buy a forge 007p recirc valve. Standard bosch valve is obviously gubbed.

Maf's also have tendancy to get contaminated over time and performance suffers.

Main 1 though would be to change the coilpacks if its running like a bag of spanners :)
 
the thing is that now the plugs have been changed the car doesnt misfire at all, seemed to me like the overfuelling had caused the plugs to give up the ghost.

At the moment the car seems to run fine once it finally starts that seems to be the only problem at the moment, it goes out with a little glitch when idling but i think this is down to the camshaft sensor fault, like i said it seems to be advancing/retarding the timing slightly.

we have checked the basic timing and it seems to be spot on, i could understand if the timing belt had been changed but it hasnt been touched since the car was new. i have been told to try the cam chain tensioner at the gearbox side of the head as this sometimes becomes faulty and throws up timing/camshaft errors.

I have had the maf out and cleaned it it looked spotless when i took it out.

The bosch valve is working fine.
 
Thats a valid point but once it finally starts it runs perfect, no misfires or nothing it seems to register the camshaft sensor fault code whilst trying to start.
 
Step 1) Remove the gash baileys woosh valve!! (1.8T's dont like them full stop!)

Step 2) Replace all four coil packs with genuine replacements from GSF

Step 3) Sit back and relax, your car now runs like a watch!
 
Is this a problem you have had in the past? as i dont have a problem with spendin 200 quid on new coil packs if this will defo fix the problem. but not if i have then to spend 300+ quid for a new cam chain tensioner aswell.
 
Coilpacks should have been your 1st port of call after cylinder misfires.

Very common VAG engine fault.

They don't cost that much, £30 a pop x 4.
 
I changed the plugs and the misfires have gone completely, the plugs were absolutely black and soaked with fuel. I probably will change the coilpacks just to see if this sorts the starting problem but i've got my doubts.
 
Just a thought, is the ECU light constantly on or is it flashing? I don't know if yours is the same as mine (mine being a TDI) but if mine is lit up solid, it's an "Excess polution" warning. Might give you more of a clue as to what you are looking for...:shrug:

Also, when you have it connected to vagcom (or whatever diagnostic tool you use), do you have the engine running? As on my Astra, if the engine isn't running it gives out faults on the camshaft and crackshaft sensors as the ECU isn't getting a reading from them.
 
Kelman70 said:
Is this a problem you have had in the past? as i dont have a problem with spendin 200 quid on new coil packs if this will defo fix the problem. but not if i have then to spend 300+ quid for a new cam chain tensioner aswell.
Click to expand...


Coil Packs should cost about £20 i think i paid £18 each when i bought 4 at trade rates from gsf.

I know a guy with a similar problem at the moment, and its just so annoying when your 75% sure its the coil packs but people arent convinced. Coil packs are most definatly a very weak link, i thought about upgrading mine to the "bolt down audi style" version.
 
Danny Fr:- When the light comes on it stays on solid, as far as i remember i think we did the diagnostics both when it was running and with the engine off. I will double check this though,

When the car starts after the codes have been cleared the light stays off then when you turn the car off and start it agin the ECU light comes on and stays on.

Chris J:- I went on GSF tonight they are 21.50 each, i am going to look into this solenoid for the vvt unit first, we work with solenoids at my work on a larger scale and sometimes they can look as if they are working fine electrically but may not be working mechanically(ie a seal might be gone it could be sticking etc) If this doesnt ring any alarm bells then i think i am going to try the coilpacks i am just not 100% convinced that this is the fault (no fault codes etc) the car is a 52plate so if they havent been changed then it might be worth a try
 
Just an update on the my really annoying problem

I have have had the Rocker cover off and checked the tension in the cam chain tensioner and everything seems fine, checked the solenoid and its fine, just tried four coilpacks, which didnt work, so if anyone needs 4 new coil packs let me know and i'll give you a good deal.

Anyone have any ideas as to what to do next??????????????

looks like i'm going to have to retrace wires for breaks etc. as i have tried almost everything now, could it be a faulty ecu? is there anyway to check this?
 
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