GUYS LOOK AT THE OTHER PICS ON HERE,LOOKS YOUR ONE WAY VALVE IS WRONG WAY,HENCE NO BOOST????? SURE SHOULD BE WHITE PART HEADING UP WARDS(POINTING TO THE BULKHEAD :doh:
 
Shouting in your first post? Hhmmm.... :think:

I need to do the resistor bypass on the IHI, tidy it up alot more.... is that infor within these 12 pages??

I know its my thread, but its gone on and on and on and on.... lol

Mike
 
Resistor is easy. 330watt 10hm, cut off the solenoids if theyre not being used any more and solder in their place the resistors. Simple.
 
Dave, had a quick look and i cant find anything really.

I'm sure i have some spare resistors i'll see if i can find them.

You could always make a bank up of 110 watt ones.
 
ive in the process off fitting a forge split r dump valve so whilst im on im gunna do the n249 bypass aswell. i was just wondering if any tee pieces or y pieces are needed? and if so where can i get one from? cheers lads
 
I cant remember if you need an extra t-piece or not, but.... i've found that most Halfords stock t-pieces amongst their washer bottle pump/tubing section.
 
fitted my split r and the dump dint seem to loud then did the n249 bypass and it deffo seems to have improved the dump noise. also i seem to have gained about 2psi. also would it be worth me getting a cold side relocation kit for my dump valve? cheers
 
My N112 valves broke off and started melting on the manifold. Managed to save the one i actually still use but the other was fried lol, so only have 1 connected and no engine management lights are up or anything like that which i thought would be. Welded the remaining N112 to a new bracket which wont fall off now.

Do i need to get a resistor to keep the engine management happy now?
 
which one is melted?? you'll need a resistor yes

is it the one with the vac hose on it still??