hmmm have a look in the top of the header to see if theres a stream coming down the return pipe...if both matrix pipes are warm should negate it being a blocked matrix, if you were local id say nip it into my work and id have a quick 15 round it for ya

That would be very kind of you mate unfortunately I'm near Manc airport :) will check that out tomorrow though and try bleeding the system as suggested earlier.

Fingers crossed :D

Thanks again guys! Will report back tomorrow!
 
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So just to confirm.. I run it at idle with the heaters on and the cap off for 10 mins or so till it gets warm, open the bleed valves, top up mixture till valves are bleeding (like you would on a house radiator) close valves, then tighten the cap? In that orde?

Thanks again :)
 
I had issues with my heating, blowing cold air and temps going up to the red when I went over 45mph. I put about 1 pint of normal water in about 3 months ago and since then has been fine.

Probably doesn't help you there though
 
Haven't got my own car with me or any diagrams etc, and the thermostat is one thing I've never even needed to look for, so can't say if this is correct.

I'm assuming your GF's 8v is the AGG like mine, and not the earlier 2E engine. Think they changed over around 96/97?

Air bleeds for the coolant are little screws (like bike tyre caps) on a 1" or so dia hose coming out of the bulkhead at the top near the middle. As you stand in front of the engine, just to the right of the inlet manifold/throttle assembly. The Idea is: get the car up to temp so the thermostat should be open, run the heater on hot with the engine running on idle, and open the bleed screws. Have a bucket/jug of ready mixed antifreeze handy (should be 50/50 I think) and keep topping up the expansion bottle until you have a nice steady stream of coolant coming out of the bleeds. Then whack the caps back on them quick as you can without letting teh level get too far down... :)

Other things that could be a problem are; internally collapsed hoses, internally collapsed or blocked radiator, generally high levels of gunk in system.

You'd only get the mayonnaise in teh oil if the head gasket had gone again... Think yourself lucky!

You can get a good idea of whether pipes are likely to be causing problems by giving them a good squeeze when they're cold. They should be quite stiff. If they're very soft you may have found your problem or possibly next weeks' problem...

I've heard a few horror stories about mk 2 ibiza radiators. Mine was replaced about 3 years ago...

Anyone kindly link me to a pic of said valves lol? Got two hoses coming from the bulkhead to the right/rear of the throttle assembly. One goes directly into the block on the right hand side of the engine and the other joins a smaller diameter metal hose which runs all the way round the front.. neither seem to have anything in the way of screws or valves on them though..

Apologies for being such a spaz

Woody
 
it may not have them fitted dependant on year the 98 cupra ive got in for breaking doesnt best way is to leave header cap on for ten while it ticks over should remove any...
 
it may not have them fitted dependant on year the 98 cupra ive got in for breaking doesnt best way is to leave header cap on for ten while it ticks over should remove any...

My mate said that too sko, so I did that till it started coming out the overflow, and booted the cap back on. Temp gauge still crept up though when I took it for a spin :( going in the garage in the morning let someone who actually knows what they're doing look at it. Thanks again for all your advice, and caf too. Nice to find a forum where people are genuinely helpful towards newbies, for a change. If I could buy you's all a pint I would do. Will report back with the cause once it's sorted for future reference.

Cheers again

Woody
 
No probs mate hoping they did a good job of the gasket for ya and its not that
 
Oh well, never mind. It's been years since I last saw a car without bleeds on the top heater hose. Maybe a mk1 or mk 2 Fiesta? I think it's likely the hose has been replaced with a cheap copy part, but that's not really helpful or important.

I've never heard of just running the car being a great way of clearing air locks, myself, and I can think of a few cars I've owned where that certainly hasn't worked, and a few where it's 'sortof' worked in that the block cleared itself and the temperature skyrocketed cos half the volume of the system just disappeared.

The problem part is (usually) the top hose from the heater to the inlet manifold water jacket. Usually that's the highest point in the system, and so if air gets stuck there (quite likely) there's no way out fo it unless you open the pipe up.

Lots of years ago (c. the Mk2 Escys I grew up with) you had to remove the heater pipe from the manifold to stand a hope of getting the air out. You just angled it down to the ground and filled, waiting for a steady stream as described above, and then jammed it back on the manifold quick as you could when it was sorted. I used to get Terry clips specially for that - they're like jubilee clips but with plastic wingnuts to close. Bleed screws built into the pipe are a godsend for making this easier.

When it's possible to get the expansion tank loose easily, if you hold it above the level of the highest point in the engine while filling you'll have much less chance of air. This is why the expansion tanks in 205s/309s have that big fat rubber band holding the tank in place, not some bizarre French style statement.

Personally, I think you've still got air in there.

All the best for tomorrow!
 
Well, just got to the garage 4.5 miles down the road and heaters were working!! Temp gauge was bang in the middle, and although i thought it shouldn't be that high after only such a short distance, the car had been ran a little bit this morning so wasn't a true cold start... Hopefully that's a good sign and rules out the head gasket? They're gonna check it out anyway so will report back with the diagnosis.

Cheers

Woody
 
Rightyo :) back from the garage today, faulty temp switch after all that! Looks like the heating or lack of it was indeed caused by an air lock which I'd managed to get rid of after all your advice, but the temp gauge going into red was caused by the dodgy temperature switch and the engine wasn't actually overheating at all. Cost us £40 quid for an hours work and to be checked over by an auto electrician which when I was expecting another head gasket job is a welcome relief :D again many thanks for all your assistance, it was very much appreciated!!

Cheers

Woody
 
Good news indeed lads, thanks again for all your brain aches and if I could buy you's a pint I would do :)

All the very best for christmas :)