Help, high Idle when warm, after fuse melt

[dave_6]

Yesterday

driving to work, 2001 ibiza

I had traction control on, but came off a roundabout hard and it kicked in and cut some power

then when slowing down coming off a sliproad the light came on, and wouldn't go off, couldnt get traction control back on, also the esp light flashed at me when I braked

got to work, all was fine after work and on way home

then in the evening, again it turned itself off and wouldnt come back on

today all was fine, then on way home from work, lost traction control, then ESP came on, then it went into limp mode and i couldnt go above 2k revs (jesus first time in limp mode and it SUCKED)

pulled over, disconnected battery for 10 minutes, and noticed fuse 3 was melted completely

couldn't remove the fuse so reconnected battery, no lights came on, and i got home ok


got home and managed to get the fuse out and cleaned up connections, took it for a good hard run, all seems fine so far, boosts fine, no lights on at all



only problem was the idle, it was too high, after a big run it idled at 1400 revs, then after I let the car cool down it still idled at 1000 revs, normally its about 800-900 I think

I did knock the pipe off the airbox thats in picture, its only taped onto the airbox and wasn't a complete airless seal either

what could be causing the high idle when warm, drove it easy for a few minutes before getting to a carpark yesterday and it sat at 1200 revs and wouldnt drop, the pipe from airbox is airtight now

 

[dave_6]

so the high idle

what do we think, air leak somewhere

or is it because I reset the ecu and its still finding the right levels?

or a maf problem

 

[jsparks]

Hi there.

Dreaded fuse boxes! give the contacts a good clean

Have you tried doing a throttle body reset?

When you disconnect the battery and reconnect, turn the ignition on for 1 minute and listen to the engine bay, there will be a high pitched whizzing noise, when this stops its finished its alignment. Then start it after this process and see if its cured.

Possibly you may have not let it align and thus the throttle is stuck open slighly more than usual as it thinks thats "normal position"

The Airbox pipe wouldnt make any difference, dealers always break the clips on them! its simply for the secondary air pump, it sucks air through the pipe to blow over the cat on startup (warms it quicker, and sounds like a hoover!)

Give that a go and get back to us!

 

[dave_6]

cheers matey, I rang a mate who used to own one and he suggested the same thing

will give it a go, after I reconnected the battery I started it straight away so it wouldn't have had time I guess

It's fine when cold, starts at 1200 and drops to 800, but as the car warms up the revs go up at idle, when fully up to temp on way to work it was at 1250 at idle

I'm guessing it must be that as it never did it until I disconnected the battery

 

[jsparks]

Yeah the 1.8T throttle bodies are a bit sensitive, generally leave them a few minutes to sort out after a battery reset.

Pull negative off battery and wait 5 minutes, then replace and do the abve.

 

[GrayT]

The exact same thing happened to mine when my fan fuse went. Get it plugged in to diagnostics. With me it was just a fault code thrown up for the idle actuator. Cleared and reset the code and back to normal. Thought it was something more serious as the engine had overheated, but that's all it was.

 

[dave_6]

going to try and do the throttle body thing in the morning

don't know anyone local with vag com so I guess i'll have to go to seat to have the codes cleared, bit of a pain and will no doubt cost loads

 

[__B3NNY__]

going to try and do the throttle body thing in the morning

don't know anyone local with vag com so I guess i'll have to go to seat to have the codes cleared, bit of a pain and will no doubt cost loads

Where abouts are you mate? there might be someone local to you on here. Most people are on the look out to help each other

 

[dave_6]

doh, throttle body didn't work

thought it had, but then when fully up to temp was idling at 1200 again

will post up seeing if anyone has vag com

I'm in colchester Essex

 

[GrayT]

Post up when you find what it was. My money is on the idle actuator.

 

[dave_6]

Well car was all fine apart from the high idle when warm

driving home tonight, sitting at 70

car jolts back, lose traction control, ESP comes on, car goes into limp mode

managed to pull over, turned engine off and went straight for that fuse, pulled it out, and it hadn't blown.

wasn't hot either and hadn't melted, connection seemed a bit thin though so I changed it over for a new one, started car, all was fine again

getting annoyed now

someone local has vag com so i'll see what fault codes I get and then go from there

 

[dave_6]

Address 01: Engine

Part No: 6K0 906 032 AA

Component: 1.8L 20VT EU3 0002

Coding: 10500

Shop #: WSC 00000



3 Faults Found:

17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction

P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low

P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction

P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17953/P1545/005445


the fuse thats melted is the abs relay, but no faults came up in regards to this,

we cleared the faults, and took it for a drive, then it was fine until i lost traction control epc light came on, and it went into limp mode

but fault it gave was 17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction

 

[jsparks]

Take off the intercooler hose, which is connected to the inlet manifold.

And see what position the throttle angle is at, if its not closed you have a mis aligned throttlebody.

You could try taking the throttlebody off the end of the inlet manifold and giving it a check over.

Did you touch any pedals when it was doing the alignment?

 

[dave_6]

nope didn't touch any of the pedals and left it battery off for 10 minutes before

reconnected, left it to do the allignment

I'm running a green filter in the standard airbox, there is no cold airfeed off the airbox, guess that doesnt help

was going to clean the throttle body aswell

 

[dave_6]

took it off

all looks fine, sprayed some carb cleaner in there

didn't take the throttle body off at inlet manifold as i dont have a gasket on me

hose pulled off

lack of cold air feed

general pic

 

[dave_6]

the fuse that melted is to do with the abs, thats the strange thing

 

[jsparks]

cant see the ABS fuse limiting you to 2k revs.

Open the throttle with your finger from the top, all the way and let go, see if it settles back shut or open like you8rs is. or you may have another fuse in the dash gone?

 

[dave_6]

high revs when the car is hot, only started after the fuse melted and i had to disconnect the battery

will try the throttle, see if it settles back down

checked fuses under steering wheel, all seemed to be intact, checked no18 the abs and that was definately still fine

at a guess, i might need to replace the fusebox on the battery afterall, was hoping i wouldnt have to

although my fault codes dont relate to that

 

[jsparks]

well it does seem to be a common problem, i think a few on here have had fires from the fuseboses. And SEAT refuse to do a recall on it.

If something may have damaged the wiring loom leading to the throttle body?

 

[Spud_G40]

You will need to replace that fusebox if that fuse melted, probably your problem. I had to replace mine about 2 weeks ago.