The fuse is to protect against over current in the event of a fault, if the cables can't take 15 amp they will burn an you have the potential for a fire. Seen if so many times in houses it's unreal
thats kind of what i ment with the fuse couldnt think of how to put it though.lol.
were you the same electrician who wouldn't place a resistor where the N112's are, due to possible complications?
I remember reading that in a thread cant remember who it was now think he was worried about getting it wrong or somthing..?? Never known a leccy to be woried about electrics..lol..
 
lol silencer thats why I asked if it was him. Also seriously made me question the guys electrical skills...

anyway, I guess 15amp could be a problem, however i took my chances and it was fine.
 
06:30 thats a lay in mate...

I start work at 7 working my 12 hour shifts in london...:cry:

days nights weekends from basildon to london up at half four back home by about 8
..:headhurt:
 
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were you the same electrician who wouldn't place a resistor where the N112's are, due to possible complications?

Now that rings a bell somewhere!

Seriously, to the OP,you should try to find out what all "consummers" that fuse feeds, then maybe unplug each of the Lambda probes and try again as the heater shorting out might be marginal and need the extra heat that a "blast" gives it. Uprating fuses, not unknown as a proper fix in the world of VAG - rear wiper motors for instance in Fabia and maybe others of that platform. I can't argue about the fuse being rated to protect the circuit wiring though - that is correct!
 
Little update on my problem for future references.

Found an auto sparkie who didn't charge the earth and it turns out my problem came from a wire off the boost valve!!! The wire had worn through and was shorting off the body or a metal bracet close by (so I was told). The problem came from the induction kit pushing the pipes/valves etc back a but further than they were meant to.

Hopefully thats it sorted now :D