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id3als
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Will be good to know if this sorts the issue, thanks mate. Still think I will replace the plugs (as no idea when last done) and the coil packs as 3 are ? old and 1 brand new.
Is it normal for these cars to fell a little resistant at low revs, my garage said it was fairly normal for these engines...?!!
Thank yet again all
N75 valve
this might be a silly question but how do you adjust an N75 valve ive read you turn to right or left is this literally in the tip, you turn the position of it in the tip
this might be a silly question but how do you adjust an N75 valve ive read you turn to right or left is this literally in the tip, you turn the position of it in the tip
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You are making no sense at all.
I'm guessing that you want to know about an LC engine here, probably an AUQ, since your profile mentions a Cupra.
I'm also having to guess that by tip you mean TIP, the Turbocharger Inlet Pipe.
The N75 valve is not in the TIP.
The crankcase ventilation valve and the recirculating dump valve are the only valves that open into the TIP. The crankcase ventilation valve is self-acting. The recirculating dump valve is also self-acting, but can in addition be forced to open by the ECU via the N249 valve. Neither is adjustable mechanically.
The N75 valve controls your charge pressure, the pressure delivered from the turbocharger. I think that the petrol cars (like yours) have a wastegate turbo, so the N75 will control the wastegate.
The N75 is located on the firewall at the back of the engine bay, with vacuum pipes and electrical wire connections.
The N75 is not adjustable.
I'm guessing that you want to know about an LC engine here, probably an AUQ, since your profile mentions a Cupra.
I'm also having to guess that by tip you mean TIP, the Turbocharger Inlet Pipe.
The N75 valve is not in the TIP.
The crankcase ventilation valve and the recirculating dump valve are the only valves that open into the TIP. The crankcase ventilation valve is self-acting. The recirculating dump valve is also self-acting, but can in addition be forced to open by the ECU via the N249 valve. Neither is adjustable mechanically.
The N75 valve controls your charge pressure, the pressure delivered from the turbocharger. I think that the petrol cars (like yours) have a wastegate turbo, so the N75 will control the wastegate.
The N75 is located on the firewall at the back of the engine bay, with vacuum pipes and electrical wire connections.
The N75 is not adjustable.
where does it say the n75 is the tip do you need glasses? as for the n75 being on the firewall yes my car is petrol engine code AUQ and the n75 is on the turbo inlet pipe just to the right of the diverter valve NOT on the firewall i think you need to check things out before you get sarcastic
and there is a post on here relating to a website 20vturbo.com that states this the thread is entitled "what the n75 valve does..." possibly thread 10170 is on this forum
and there is a post on here relating to a website 20vturbo.com that states this the thread is entitled "what the n75 valve does..." possibly thread 10170 is on this forum
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You're right, the N75 is mounted on the TIP on the AUQ engine, my mistake. On the TIP rather than in it, though, and with the amount of translation I'm having to make from gobbledegook to English I made a bad guess in straightening out your syntax.
Yes, I do wear glasses.
You're asking technical questions on a public forum with readers from all over the world, some of whom aren't even native English speakers. In order to stand a chance of getting an answer you can use, it is best to ask an unambiguous question in clear standard English using accepted technical jargon as necessary. Short sentences, punctuation and capitalisation included. If I have to guess at what you're trying to say then the answer I give could be completely wrong.
But the N75 valve is not adjustable: assuming that you mean adjustable in terms of actuation limits, flow rates or sensitivity. It's a pneumatic switch worked by the ECU. You can adjust its position in the pipe for appearance,but that's it.
Yes, I do wear glasses.
You're asking technical questions on a public forum with readers from all over the world, some of whom aren't even native English speakers. In order to stand a chance of getting an answer you can use, it is best to ask an unambiguous question in clear standard English using accepted technical jargon as necessary. Short sentences, punctuation and capitalisation included. If I have to guess at what you're trying to say then the answer I give could be completely wrong.
But the N75 valve is not adjustable: assuming that you mean adjustable in terms of actuation limits, flow rates or sensitivity. It's a pneumatic switch worked by the ECU. You can adjust its position in the pipe for appearance,but that's it.
finally think its sorted replaced the N75F with the N75J cleared the 17705 fault code and it hasnt come back yet fingers crossed
its also running smoother and seems to rev better
its also running smoother and seems to rev better
I have the same problem on my 2004 AUQ cupra. When i start the car in the morning i usually only have 5 PSI of boost until i knock the car off and start it again (i just idle the car as its going down the road and start it again) which then solves the problem. But also getting surging most of the time and car feels nowhere as quick as it was when i had just had the remap. This issue started about 2 months after the remap and is getting a bit more frequent now! So it looks like fitting a N75J will solve the issue as heard many mixed things about them .
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it wasnt the n75 so i put original one back on
took it to another place well known on here for a remap and its sorted now aparrently you have to change the IAT (intake air temp) to get rid of the cold start issue
took it to another place well known on here for a remap and its sorted now aparrently you have to change the IAT (intake air temp) to get rid of the cold start issue
mmmm strange problem this one. Cant understand how the problem was there as soon as i had the remap. Im not to bothered about the cold start issue as off/on of the ignition and sorted but mine is definitely down on power at the mo. Going to have a good look if there are any split hoses on the weekend if i get a minute as seems to be not boosting right!
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