I thought I’d write this to help anyone else out who needs a new key. There are plenty of other threads on keys but they only seem to cover individual aspects or are just fragmented. This is meant to be an all-in-one where I’ve pulled everything together (from here and other sites) that you’ll need to make a complete new key.
This was for a 2003 Leon Cupra R (but no reason why this won't be the same for many other years/models).
The Key consists of 3 elements – the Blade, the Transponder and the Remote.
It’s a HAA key (remote VAG key) and has a HU66 blade, ID48 Transponder and 434Mhz transmitter.
Total cost was £11. (You will probably need to add the cost of key cutting which I did not need but even so it’s only about a tenner):
£5 for a second hand flip key from the local scrappy (need this for the remote electronics inside)
£3 for a new transponder (ebay)
£3 for a shiny new case complete with a blank key blade (ebay)
*I am in no way connected to those sellers – the links are just to give you an idea but they’re who I used and got working stuff from…
I could have done it for £6 as you don’t strictly need the remote but I was feeling flush so went for that luxury too…
Here’s what I did:
The Blade:
You need a copy of your original key blade. I’ve heard these keys referred to at Laser cut keys. No idea why - they’re not laser cut. Luckily, despite the name, there’s nothing fancy going on here so it shouldn’t be a big deal as it only requires a basic milling machine. The easiest way to get this done is just go somewhere that cuts car keys. Homebase or The Range don’t cut car keys…
First issue you’ll have here is know-it-alls smirking at you because you’re a “fool” for thinking all you need is a new key blade.
After calling a few places up I went to Timpsons but disappointingly once I got there they were totally uninterested in my custom and money. They wouldn’t cut my blank due to warranty concerns (sort of fair enough) but then the guy just shuffled about mumbling for a bit half arsed looking for a blank then declared they didn’t have any. They didn’t have any HU66 key blanks - WTF?! The same key that is in every VAG car made in the last 15 years… I left the shop.
The think the lesson here is don’t bother with Timpsons ever again.
It would be interesting to hear where others have got it done and the cost.
In my local area there seems to be a real shortage of car key cutting services but luckily I have access to a machine shop so I just did it myself in the end. Obviously this isn’t going to be the route most people take, but if you do/can/are interested, here is what I learnt:
First up you need to measure your original key. To help understand how to do this you need to understand how the lock works.
There are 8 wafers inside the key barrel that are ~1mm thick, pitched 3mm apart, starting 3mm from the shoulder of the key. This video shows the mechanism nicely – ignore the lock picking element.
So if you measure at those points on the key (3mm intervals from the shoulder) that’s all that’s important.
The slot is 3.2mm wide x 1.2mm deep.
Throw all the numbers into a CAD model:
and you’re good to go. Get your mate Andrew to throw a tool path on it and set it up in a CNC mill and its job done.
The Remote:
I went to the scrappy and got a 2 button VAG key, part number HLO 1J0 959 753 AG. Make sure you get the right Part Number for your car! Incidentally, it doesn’t need to be from the exact same model as your car – mine was from a 04 VW Bora.
Just pull the key apart to separate the button half and the key half. Then transfer the electronics to the new case. To do this just prise the case apart. Loads of info in this thread
This thread is how to program it to your car. But basically:
Klaus’ instructions:
- car is locked
- unlock with normal key manually at drivers doorlock
- IGN ON with normal key ... leave it there
- use NEW remote key to lock the car manually at drivers doorlock
- remove remote key from doorlock
- press "lock" at the NEW key, indicator lights will flash
- then hold the "unlock" für ~3 sec. and indicators will flash long and the doors should unlock
- coding procedure should be successfully finished.
At first it didn’t seem this worked for me and I thought I was going to have to program the remote using VagCom but weirdly when I went the do it later that evening (after driving the car) the remote was mysteriously already working! I guess I just needed to cycle the ignition or something. So, in short, that method does work.
The Transponder:
First up you need a new virgin transponder that’s never been used before so the one in the old key you got from the scrappy won’t work. I don’t know why but this is the way it is.
The transponder is an “ID48” type. They also seem to go by other code/manufacturer names too which is confusing.
There’s a slot in the key body where you put the transponder. I don’t know if it matters which way round you put it but to be safe I put the clear end where you can see the coil inside pointing forwards just like in my original key. I didn’t glue mine in, instead I wrapped a bit of masking tape around it and gently wedged it in so I can easily remove it again (if something goes wrong?).
Now you need your Pin/SKC (Secret Key Code). Seat won’t/can’t give you this for love nor money. However you can retrieve it yourself with the right software. A quick Google will tell you there’s a few to choose from.
I chose Vag K + CAN Commander 2.5 as documented in this excellent guide here. There’s no point me going over those instructions but I will highlight the simple but critical instruction that I missed at first that is “In the bottom left, select the connection type to be K-Line, as seen below, and then click the Engine Control Unit button – this is where you select your ECU type. It took me a while to realise this. (BTW, mine was “VAG-ME7.1.1/7.5/7.8 wakeup pattern 11” – not 01 as in that guide).
I downloaded VAG K + Can Commander from the link on resettools.com (about half way down the page). On my PC the McAfee antivirus said it was a trojan and removed it but on my laptop with AVG it was fine, so I’m happy its fine. Wasn’t going to use the PC anyway…
There are newer versions of Vag Commander available but there are reports of issues with them and as we know 2.5 works there’s not a lot of point bothering with anything else.
I already had Vag-Com and use a blue Ebay cable all setup and running. I can tell you this cable also works fine with Vag K + Can Commander (2.5 at least) and I didn’t need to do anything special to get it to work (I’ve read about having to change the Vag-com setting and installing this and that but it just worked fine with no funny business).
I followed the guide above and the links at the bottom of it for using Vag-Com to program the transponder. Here’s the link for the Ross-tech (Vag-Com) video. Here's Ross-tech's info on immobilisers and this is the link is to their more in depth guide to programming immob 3 as found in this car.
So basically use “Vag K + Can Commander” to get your Pin and then” Vag-Com” to program your transponder in the key.
There is functionality to program keys within Vag K + Can Commander but I couldn’t find any documentation on how to do this.
And thats it
I finished mine off with a sweet homemade Cupra ‘R’ badge
This was for a 2003 Leon Cupra R (but no reason why this won't be the same for many other years/models).
The Key consists of 3 elements – the Blade, the Transponder and the Remote.
It’s a HAA key (remote VAG key) and has a HU66 blade, ID48 Transponder and 434Mhz transmitter.
Total cost was £11. (You will probably need to add the cost of key cutting which I did not need but even so it’s only about a tenner):
£5 for a second hand flip key from the local scrappy (need this for the remote electronics inside)
£3 for a new transponder (ebay)
£3 for a shiny new case complete with a blank key blade (ebay)
*I am in no way connected to those sellers – the links are just to give you an idea but they’re who I used and got working stuff from…
I could have done it for £6 as you don’t strictly need the remote but I was feeling flush so went for that luxury too…
Here’s what I did:
The Blade:
You need a copy of your original key blade. I’ve heard these keys referred to at Laser cut keys. No idea why - they’re not laser cut. Luckily, despite the name, there’s nothing fancy going on here so it shouldn’t be a big deal as it only requires a basic milling machine. The easiest way to get this done is just go somewhere that cuts car keys. Homebase or The Range don’t cut car keys…
First issue you’ll have here is know-it-alls smirking at you because you’re a “fool” for thinking all you need is a new key blade.
After calling a few places up I went to Timpsons but disappointingly once I got there they were totally uninterested in my custom and money. They wouldn’t cut my blank due to warranty concerns (sort of fair enough) but then the guy just shuffled about mumbling for a bit half arsed looking for a blank then declared they didn’t have any. They didn’t have any HU66 key blanks - WTF?! The same key that is in every VAG car made in the last 15 years… I left the shop.
The think the lesson here is don’t bother with Timpsons ever again.
It would be interesting to hear where others have got it done and the cost.
In my local area there seems to be a real shortage of car key cutting services but luckily I have access to a machine shop so I just did it myself in the end. Obviously this isn’t going to be the route most people take, but if you do/can/are interested, here is what I learnt:
First up you need to measure your original key. To help understand how to do this you need to understand how the lock works.
There are 8 wafers inside the key barrel that are ~1mm thick, pitched 3mm apart, starting 3mm from the shoulder of the key. This video shows the mechanism nicely – ignore the lock picking element.
So if you measure at those points on the key (3mm intervals from the shoulder) that’s all that’s important.
The slot is 3.2mm wide x 1.2mm deep.
Throw all the numbers into a CAD model:
and you’re good to go. Get your mate Andrew to throw a tool path on it and set it up in a CNC mill and its job done.
The Remote:
I went to the scrappy and got a 2 button VAG key, part number HLO 1J0 959 753 AG. Make sure you get the right Part Number for your car! Incidentally, it doesn’t need to be from the exact same model as your car – mine was from a 04 VW Bora.
Just pull the key apart to separate the button half and the key half. Then transfer the electronics to the new case. To do this just prise the case apart. Loads of info in this thread
This thread is how to program it to your car. But basically:
Klaus’ instructions:
- car is locked
- unlock with normal key manually at drivers doorlock
- IGN ON with normal key ... leave it there
- use NEW remote key to lock the car manually at drivers doorlock
- remove remote key from doorlock
- press "lock" at the NEW key, indicator lights will flash
- then hold the "unlock" für ~3 sec. and indicators will flash long and the doors should unlock
- coding procedure should be successfully finished.
At first it didn’t seem this worked for me and I thought I was going to have to program the remote using VagCom but weirdly when I went the do it later that evening (after driving the car) the remote was mysteriously already working! I guess I just needed to cycle the ignition or something. So, in short, that method does work.
The Transponder:
First up you need a new virgin transponder that’s never been used before so the one in the old key you got from the scrappy won’t work. I don’t know why but this is the way it is.
The transponder is an “ID48” type. They also seem to go by other code/manufacturer names too which is confusing.
There’s a slot in the key body where you put the transponder. I don’t know if it matters which way round you put it but to be safe I put the clear end where you can see the coil inside pointing forwards just like in my original key. I didn’t glue mine in, instead I wrapped a bit of masking tape around it and gently wedged it in so I can easily remove it again (if something goes wrong?).
Now you need your Pin/SKC (Secret Key Code). Seat won’t/can’t give you this for love nor money. However you can retrieve it yourself with the right software. A quick Google will tell you there’s a few to choose from.
I chose Vag K + CAN Commander 2.5 as documented in this excellent guide here. There’s no point me going over those instructions but I will highlight the simple but critical instruction that I missed at first that is “In the bottom left, select the connection type to be K-Line, as seen below, and then click the Engine Control Unit button – this is where you select your ECU type. It took me a while to realise this. (BTW, mine was “VAG-ME7.1.1/7.5/7.8 wakeup pattern 11” – not 01 as in that guide).
I downloaded VAG K + Can Commander from the link on resettools.com (about half way down the page). On my PC the McAfee antivirus said it was a trojan and removed it but on my laptop with AVG it was fine, so I’m happy its fine. Wasn’t going to use the PC anyway…
There are newer versions of Vag Commander available but there are reports of issues with them and as we know 2.5 works there’s not a lot of point bothering with anything else.
I already had Vag-Com and use a blue Ebay cable all setup and running. I can tell you this cable also works fine with Vag K + Can Commander (2.5 at least) and I didn’t need to do anything special to get it to work (I’ve read about having to change the Vag-com setting and installing this and that but it just worked fine with no funny business).
I followed the guide above and the links at the bottom of it for using Vag-Com to program the transponder. Here’s the link for the Ross-tech (Vag-Com) video. Here's Ross-tech's info on immobilisers and this is the link is to their more in depth guide to programming immob 3 as found in this car.
So basically use “Vag K + Can Commander” to get your Pin and then” Vag-Com” to program your transponder in the key.
There is functionality to program keys within Vag K + Can Commander but I couldn’t find any documentation on how to do this.
And thats it
I finished mine off with a sweet homemade Cupra ‘R’ badge
Last edited:
