Oil leak turbo area

[ToledoSteve]

Hi people need help, oil leak around turbo oil outlet pipe area, anybody else had this. saw it 3 mths ago it was just an odd drip, now it looks worse oil everywhere all over driveshaft engine mount etc, I know it lloks worse than it is but my prob is I can,t see where it is coming from. any ideas ? anyone delt with this prob before ? Its a 99 Toledo 110S TDI

 

[ToledoSteve]

Further to my last....The drips of oil seem to be coming from onr of the bolts which hold the wastegate mounting bracket. but why would these bolts thread through into an oilway. The haynes manual shows the bolt housings to be raised on the turbo casting, on mine they are castinto the housing but again why an oilway. I can,t see if the oil is dripping from above onto the area of the bolt, thus fooling me! anyone? ideas?

 

[ToledoSteve]

OK after investigative surgery, The leak is from the turbo oil inlet pipe, top joint, it was dripping down onto the bottom of the turbo, looks a lot worse than it is, but I do want to stop it. It looks like a "pigs ear" to get to. any special tools needed? any tips, do i have to take the inlet manifold off? I will be very appreciative of any tips from people who have previously solved this problem.

 

[gazjones]

noticed a bit on mine today and after i got it it used a good letre of oil in 6k

 

[ToledoSteve]

Have done the job, see TDIs for my report on how blocked the inlet manifold was. Special tools a 15mm split spanner of the kind that you would use for injector pipes. A good selection of star and allen bits and allen keys (long handle) No gaskets needed, the originals were all as new. (btw this is a good time to mount a blanking plate for the hated EGR, (it shocks me that any competent angineer could actually design such a thing, it is just bad science!!) (Just invent a gun that will kill all the tree huggers - better science) After the manifold is off, you can easily see the pipe in question. I could not separate the two parts on the car and had to take off the whole pipe and put it in a vice. This was because someone had tried to fix the leak before, by tightening the thing down hard. (so hard that the olive was jammed into the connector) Ideally a complete replacement pipe and connector and oil seal was called for, I suggest that the initial reason for the problem may be that the pipe has to be bent a little to position it correctly for final tightening, if this is not done (only an owner would do it) then the pipe wil eventually start to leak as mine had. I used a judicious amount of Blue Hylomar on all threads and so far the slight smellof burning oil that I used to get on start up as the oil drips on the turbo housing burned off, has gone, All that is left now is to again clean the undertray, driveshaft and back of the engine under the turbo. I will keep you posted (if it hasn,t worked it will be time for a new pipe and connector(my dealers seat and VW did not have in stock (in fact at VW the connectore was a back order item not expected in for a month.) DO read my post in TDIs about the inlet manifold being well and truly blocked.

 

[ToledoSteve]

Done the job. It did not work, leak still there, probably slightly worse. Of course the way forward now is to fit a new connector. This part is most likely to have been damaged by whoever tightened down the pipe nut originally. I have ordered the connector through my local SEAT dealer. When it arrives I will try again. It will not brat me I will prevail. (BTW there is a shield (plastic) below the turbo and over the driveshaft gaiter, so the designers must have expected some leakage, it protects the gaiter OK but re-directs the oil drips onto the shaft which promptly throws it everywhere.

 

[ToledoSteve]

OK got the new pipe and connector, everything fine now, problem solved. But the new pipe is a different shape! if anyone else is contemplating this job. Don,t worry though because by the looks of it the new pipe is of better quality than the original, you do though have to adjust (with hammer) the tab on the manifold which the pipe is secured onto halfay along it,s length. This feat is no problem, just go carefully and tap it into shape. Along with the new pipe and connector come all new copper washers and at the banjo end a new hollow locating bolt (with copper washers)