Hey all, new member here!
I've searched through and can't see any threads that show the exact issues that I'm having, please point me in the right direction and accept my apologies if I'm mistaken!
Car is a 2001, Seat Leon Cupra T (180), standard engine/map/air intake wise.
Bought in January, started having issues in March.
First issue I had was it running badly, and misfiring when the car was first started and cold. If the car was warm, I could turn it off, and straight back on and it would work fine. I also noticed a slight jerkiness when pulling away. I read through some posts at that time and someone advised pulling the MAF and seeing if it ran better, I pulled the MAF and the car seemed to run better, but now with the traction control, and engine management lights on.
I took it to my garage to confirm and scan the codes, and they had advised the MAF was indeed shot. I told them that I wanted, and had read I would need a Genuine Bosch MAF, they advised they had a mid range one that they supply to others and work fine, so I was talked into that (Possibly my first mistake?) We went ahead with it, MAF replaced, codes cleared, job sorted, car running well.... For two weeks.
Same symptoms come back, no lights on dash, but I'm misfiring on startup until warm. Back to the garage I go, they test the MAF and come back that it's shot. Replacement brought in on warranty, codes cleared, and the car runs fine. But alas a few weeks later, same symptoms return.
Garage want to keep the car for a bit as they think something else is going on, and after a few days I get a call saying they think my ECU is faulty, and is frying all the MAF's we try. I take the car back, sort another ECU out, get the immobiliser deleted put it in the car and it runs fine (but still with a shot MAF and lights on the dash) Until I start it later that night, and the car runs at 500rpm for a few seconds, then dies. Over and over, I unplug and replug the MAF in and it seems to work fine.
Get to the garage the next day, and put in a new MAF, (Again not bosch) clear the codes, Annnnndddddd it runs like absolute
! Misfiring horrifically, running lumpy, not playing game. They are saying at least now there is a signal between the ECU and the MAF (not present before) so that's a step in the right direction I suppose. Heads are scratched, and the throttle body is re-aligned at which point the car runs fine. I get the car back and have a few days of easy driving.
Went up to center parcs at the weekend, and give it some beans on the open roads. Few seconds after, traction control light comes on. Pull over, turn the car off and on (Starts fine) and no traction control light, go up the road, give it some beans, and again traction control light comes on. The light stays off on easy driving, just comes on when under full boost but will disappear after car being turned off.
I'm halfway to my weekend break, and there's nothing I can do, so I park up and leave it for 3 days whilst I'm on holiday. Start the car up after the 3 days, and it's misfiring again until warm. Drive home, and an hour in I get the engine management light up, but no traction control light as before (Even after full boost), I am yet to get this scanned and will update when I do.
Sorry about the wall of text, but wanted to get everything written up in case of of the symptoms gives anyone any ideas!
Just wondering what my next move should be, should I buy a genuine Bosch MAF and try that?
Or can anyone think of anything else I should try next?
Thanks!
I've searched through and can't see any threads that show the exact issues that I'm having, please point me in the right direction and accept my apologies if I'm mistaken!
Car is a 2001, Seat Leon Cupra T (180), standard engine/map/air intake wise.
Bought in January, started having issues in March.
First issue I had was it running badly, and misfiring when the car was first started and cold. If the car was warm, I could turn it off, and straight back on and it would work fine. I also noticed a slight jerkiness when pulling away. I read through some posts at that time and someone advised pulling the MAF and seeing if it ran better, I pulled the MAF and the car seemed to run better, but now with the traction control, and engine management lights on.
I took it to my garage to confirm and scan the codes, and they had advised the MAF was indeed shot. I told them that I wanted, and had read I would need a Genuine Bosch MAF, they advised they had a mid range one that they supply to others and work fine, so I was talked into that (Possibly my first mistake?) We went ahead with it, MAF replaced, codes cleared, job sorted, car running well.... For two weeks.
Same symptoms come back, no lights on dash, but I'm misfiring on startup until warm. Back to the garage I go, they test the MAF and come back that it's shot. Replacement brought in on warranty, codes cleared, and the car runs fine. But alas a few weeks later, same symptoms return.
Garage want to keep the car for a bit as they think something else is going on, and after a few days I get a call saying they think my ECU is faulty, and is frying all the MAF's we try. I take the car back, sort another ECU out, get the immobiliser deleted put it in the car and it runs fine (but still with a shot MAF and lights on the dash) Until I start it later that night, and the car runs at 500rpm for a few seconds, then dies. Over and over, I unplug and replug the MAF in and it seems to work fine.
Get to the garage the next day, and put in a new MAF, (Again not bosch) clear the codes, Annnnndddddd it runs like absolute
! Misfiring horrifically, running lumpy, not playing game. They are saying at least now there is a signal between the ECU and the MAF (not present before) so that's a step in the right direction I suppose. Heads are scratched, and the throttle body is re-aligned at which point the car runs fine. I get the car back and have a few days of easy driving.Went up to center parcs at the weekend, and give it some beans on the open roads. Few seconds after, traction control light comes on. Pull over, turn the car off and on (Starts fine) and no traction control light, go up the road, give it some beans, and again traction control light comes on. The light stays off on easy driving, just comes on when under full boost but will disappear after car being turned off.
I'm halfway to my weekend break, and there's nothing I can do, so I park up and leave it for 3 days whilst I'm on holiday. Start the car up after the 3 days, and it's misfiring again until warm. Drive home, and an hour in I get the engine management light up, but no traction control light as before (Even after full boost), I am yet to get this scanned and will update when I do.
Sorry about the wall of text, but wanted to get everything written up in case of of the symptoms gives anyone any ideas!
Just wondering what my next move should be, should I buy a genuine Bosch MAF and try that?
Or can anyone think of anything else I should try next?
Thanks!
Possibly worth buying some Electrical Contact Cleaner and spraying the connectors?, will see if I can pick any up on the way home.
) mashed up and pushed back! And with damage to the red surround. With some mcgyver level car key and club card wizardry we pulled the pin back out and separated the mashed connector, plugged it back in and guess what. Runs great, no hunting, best it's driven since the saga has begun. FS! 
) 
