they dont lock out the ecu, some 'tuners' have limited software and blame it on something else
as for the orignal poster, i doubt the maps at fault, but never say never.
i take it it will turn over just not fire?
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they dont lock out the ecu, some 'tuners' have limited software and blame it on something else
as for the orignal poster, i doubt the maps at fault, but never say never.
i take it it will turn over just not fire?
Swany
Guest
G!zmond0
Guest
It's the remap man.Sorry to ruine your high but that's the problem.I had the same issue with my P.Box.It didn't want to start.It even stoped working while the car was in motion.After I removed the box the car was just fine.It started rightaway.If you inputed software though i dony know, maybe you should talk with the remap company.Don't worry i am almost certain it's the remap
Have you tried disconnecting the battery to force an ECU reset?
Has it done it since the remap was put on?
Can you smell fuel at all?
Yep. Mine got it last week so it is confirmed
So why have they (Seat) released a software update for the new Cupra ...??? Are there any differences that you have noticed ...???
G!zmond0
Guest
Swany
Guest
have not tried to disconnect the battery.
it strted about 3 weeks after remap was put on.... def cant smell any fuel
G!zmond0
Guest
I sent my box back to Germany and the people replaced it with new one.I installed it and it started just fine.It's the remap
G!zmond0
Guest
Custom-Code HQ
Guest
Hi Guys,
Let me just clear a few things up on here.
We did the remap and after it was done my mobile agent checked logs on the car to make sure everything is running perfect (which it was) - this was done via VAG-COM after the remap so if there was any issues trying to communicate with the ECU it would have been picked up here.
Personally I believe the dealer is just trying to fob you off, as I have worked at a Seat dealer I know how they work
As I said to you, we will be more than happy to check over the car to point you in the right direction and give you advice. This would mean coming to us or local agent, which I have tried to book an appointment.
It sounds to us like you are loosing fuel rail pressure over time, check to hear on the first stage of ignition the in-tank pump is working. Sounds like you are having to build fuel pressure before the engine will start.
We have never had this problem before with any other Leon’s we have done; I hope you can get it sorted asap!
Kind Regards
Custom-Code
Let me just clear a few things up on here.
We did the remap and after it was done my mobile agent checked logs on the car to make sure everything is running perfect (which it was) - this was done via VAG-COM after the remap so if there was any issues trying to communicate with the ECU it would have been picked up here.
Personally I believe the dealer is just trying to fob you off, as I have worked at a Seat dealer I know how they work
As I said to you, we will be more than happy to check over the car to point you in the right direction and give you advice. This would mean coming to us or local agent, which I have tried to book an appointment.
It sounds to us like you are loosing fuel rail pressure over time, check to hear on the first stage of ignition the in-tank pump is working. Sounds like you are having to build fuel pressure before the engine will start.
We have never had this problem before with any other Leon’s we have done; I hope you can get it sorted asap!
Kind Regards
Custom-Code
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G!zmond0
Guest
I don't think it's the pump.If it was the pump the car would start and after that it would strart breaking untill it stops or it would not start at all.
Custom-Code HQ
Guest
Hi
You do realise this is a DIRECT PORT INJECTION ENGINE. And not a 1.8T
The original post reported having to crank before it fires , This is quite normal its due to the rail pressure having to be built before the engine is allowed to fire. (unlike a 1.8T it uses a mechanical fuel pump to supply the injectors) and over time the pressure will drop, and need to be built back up in order to start. I bet if you start it from cold it will do it every time , then turn it of and restart ,now the pressure is pressent you will find it start firsts crank. It also helps some if you pause between first stage ignition "electric pump fires" and crank.
Hope this helps
CUSTOM-CODE TEAM
Swany
Guest
This is exactly what is happening, it is worst first thing in the morning when the car is cold but if i go a run to say the shops then come back out to start, it more or less fires first time. I have tried to pause between ignition and crank but it does not make any difference. I can def hear the pump working though... What is causing this then..?
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Although mines not as long as five seconds I do have to let it crank before it starts in the morning it always been like it pre and post remap.
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