does the ecu run windows? is this why it needs rebooting at intervals? is there no service pack out for it yet or a million hotfixes? 
reset ecu is a must
- Thread starter chillcupra
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does the ecu run windows? is this why it needs rebooting at intervals? is there no service pack out for it yet or a million hotfixes?
I think we all would need a hard-drive in the car to cope with the number of pixes for windows.
So say somebody bought a new car and thrashed the hell out of it from new then there is no point in me sorry i mean him/her doing this as it is a pain in the ass to get to his/her battery as it has been relocated in the boot under a NOS bottle.
So say somebody bought a new car and thrashed the hell out of it from new then there is no point in me sorry i mean him/her doing this as it is a pain in the ass to get to his/her battery as it has been relocated in the boot under a NOS bottle.
Probably not, but i would advise him/her to look at a possible relocation of a 12volt Battery (spark maker) with some distance from the highly flammible pressurised Nos bottle
One day on and my car on a proper drive since restting, feels far better than before,less hesitent i think. Or as above maybe a placebo effect!?
what resetting does is delete the short term fuel trim from the pcm/ecu memory
and just leaves the long term fuel trim with no comparison so you need to do a drive cycle to reteach it that why you get so much power.if you get more power o(or you think you do) that probably because you were driving it like a fanny before and learnt slow driving values
and just leaves the long term fuel trim with no comparison so you need to do a drive cycle to reteach it that why you get so much power.if you get more power o(or you think you do) that probably because you were driving it like a fanny before and learnt slow driving values
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Hi goble --
very interesting, but can you explain what "fuel trim" means?
And how many hours / miles is a drive cycle for a VAG diesel?
Really interested to understand this stuff better!
cheers, Craig
very interesting, but can you explain what "fuel trim" means?
And how many hours / miles is a drive cycle for a VAG diesel?
Really interested to understand this stuff better!
cheers, Craig
long term fuel trim is basically what the base values of the map/ecu programme are these are fixed to the ecu so it know what fuel it should be injecting at what rpm/reding comparisons of other sensors ie air flow meter.
short term fuel trim is what is inputted by the driver during a drive cycle ie when u start up till u turn off but keeps the short term fuel trim in KAM (keep alive) memory for when it is next used this KAM is lost when battery is disconnected so must be regenerated. on mazda's this must be done to turn out the mil light. and on seats this will generate readiness codes.
On petrol version this will be found under 01 then 15 on vas5051 or your similar rosstech software and when looking at th display there will be a row of binary 8 numbers 1 and 0 you know all systems are working correctly ie cats o2 sensors egr when they all turn to 0. This method is now also used on newer diesel that run DPF's (diesel particle filters)
short term fuel trim is what is inputted by the driver during a drive cycle ie when u start up till u turn off but keeps the short term fuel trim in KAM (keep alive) memory for when it is next used this KAM is lost when battery is disconnected so must be regenerated. on mazda's this must be done to turn out the mil light. and on seats this will generate readiness codes.
On petrol version this will be found under 01 then 15 on vas5051 or your similar rosstech software and when looking at th display there will be a row of binary 8 numbers 1 and 0 you know all systems are working correctly ie cats o2 sensors egr when they all turn to 0. This method is now also used on newer diesel that run DPF's (diesel particle filters)
Probably not, but i would advise him/her to look at a possible relocation of a 12volt Battery (spark maker) with some distance from the highly flammible pressurised Nos bottle
Audi built the car with a battery box in the boot under the metal floor so nowhere else to put it really as the highly flammable propane tank takes up the rest of the boot floor next to the NOS bottle.
Audi built the car with a battery box in the boot under the metal floor so nowhere else to put it really as the highly flammable propane tank takes up the rest of the boot floor next to the NOS bottle.
Glad its not me! I don't doubt you can drive, but there are so many people who can't, i'd hate to have one of them shunt me from the rear.
Happend to me already once ten days after i got the car from the dealers. My car was off road for five weeks getting fixed but the car that hit me was dead on the spot.
Nothing wrong with Rovers (all right, there are a few things wrong but you know what i mean) its the tailgaters that deserve it. Shame you car had to suffer though. Did you have the highly flamible stuff in the boot at the time?
Only had the car for ten days give me chance ! I don`t think it would have made any difference if i had though as my Audi has a large thick alloy beam front and rear just behind the bumpers which took most of the impact. Very little damage was done to my car considering the force of the impact really since i was pushed a good five to ten yards from being stationary into the car in front of me at a round about.
Did a reset yesterday, just removed battery negative lead and left it for an hour. (Passat 130, 51K miles, never done a reset before)
Have to say it really has made the throttle response sharper. Pick-up in the gears is now INSTANT when before I would sometimes get a half-second "hang on while I think about it".
Very small downside: tripmeter and **both** computer readouts reset to zero and having to recode the radio.
I will be doing this at least every service from now on.
Have to say it really has made the throttle response sharper. Pick-up in the gears is now INSTANT when before I would sometimes get a half-second "hang on while I think about it".
Very small downside: tripmeter and **both** computer readouts reset to zero and having to recode the radio.
I will be doing this at least every service from now on.
Any good radio technician should be able to de-code a stereo for you for quite cheap. A person in my work did it for me for free.
Im a complete noob with cars (I hate it but I am), im scared to touch certain things incase I break them. Is this an easy thing to do, im not going to end up with my car in the garage with 100£'s of damage am I?
Do I just disconnect the leads from the battery, is that all?
Is it easy to disconnect them?
You just disconnect the battery NEGATIVE lead, using a 10mm ring spanner. No need to disconnect the positive.
Make sure you move the loose lead away from the terminal so it can't touch it. Then leave it for an hour, and reconnect.
Don't worry if you get a little spark at the negative terminal when reconnecting the lead, it's normal.
Reset clock and radio, and drive ....
Make sure you move the loose lead away from the terminal so it can't touch it. Then leave it for an hour, and reconnect.
Don't worry if you get a little spark at the negative terminal when reconnecting the lead, it's normal.
Reset clock and radio, and drive ....
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