*RESOLVED* Fault Code(s) 0.4 Bar Max Boost = Constant Limp Mode!

[seatcupramad23]

well if thats the case my car is off the road so you can try my ecu mo if that helps

 

[Pyro]

Mates ecu failed on his ibza 1.8T but was down to mapper not knowing what he was doing and ended up doing something the software and then it wouldn't go back easy to see if your leaking is to log the boost I know I keep saying it but think you should or ask this place to go through the logging with you when you get it smoke tested

 

[Mo Arif]

any news Mo?

Nothing bro, I called R Techhhhh but they busy as hell!, they said it's £40 per hour etc etc and I have to drop my car there and will take 2-3 days?!! they have qood reputation I know but the problem is, I have to take my mrs there with me to bring me back home) and then wait untill the weekend to pick the car back up!?

I've been recommended this place in Coventry / Warwickshire called 'Stealth Racing' they have rolling road, and a smoke boost leak test machine, booked in for the 18th, fingers crossed

It's driving me insane bro, how is this even possible, boost leak or not, i've changed everything you can

Is there ever a point on these cars where you have to consider the ECU itself is at fault?
Just thinking out loud.

This has crossed my mind............

Yeah could well be, mates wouldn't start till he got his repaired.

What exactly happened to your mates Lee and what did they actually repair? the EPROM data on the same ECU or replaced the ECU?

very unlikely its possible but never heard of these ecu's failing in my experience on the 110 tdi yeah but not 1.8t, defo don't think its boost leak that causing your constant limp mode, i would say 4 area's to look out actuator , n75 and n249 , and dv defo think its to do with either one of them

n75 has been replaced with a brand new one

n249 has been restored to it's original set-up with up-rated hoses

DV, i've tried both my standard DV and the Forge 007p (6 months old)


Actuator is probably the next thing I will look at but I wouldn't know where to start and what to look for, the hoses as you now know has already been changed, well half way point.

I mainly asked because it would appear that Mo has changed everything you mention, plus most people who have issues with any of those components rarely get constant limp mode 100% of the time.

And that's the point i'm trying to make!!!! but no one is listening to me, they keep telling me to check the same boring old parts that go on these cars over and over again which I have replaced with brand new OE parts no expense spared!

i would offer for mo to try my ecu but immobiliser would not alloy it to start

Thanks bro....... read on though

Full vag com allows ecu swapping, simples.

I have VCDS Fully Registered Latest Version will this do the trick? I have the following software and cables:


VCDS

VAG K+CAN Commander

KWP2000+

Galleto 1260


Only one I don't have is VAG Tacho

well if thats the case my car is off the road so you can try my ecu mo if that helps

Thanks again bro

Mates ecu failed on his ibza 1.8T but was down to mapper not knowing what he was doing and ended up doing something the software and then it wouldn't go back easy to see if your leaking is to log the boost I know I keep saying it but think you should or ask this place to go through the logging with you when you get it smoke tested

I'll try my best to get some logs, persuade the mrs, the wee one keeps crying when his away from him mom! so it's a bit hard






OK, thanks for all you input guy's, sooner or later after changing all the commons parts, I knew 'ECU' would pop up somewhere, so ..... I got a good deal on a ECU from a facelift mk1 cupra with white dial clocks and imobiliser chip thingy, so plug and play really

I mainly bought it to mess around with to learn etc but it looks like it might come in handy! BUT I don't want to go down that route yet, if there is ANYTHING else I could check or do, I'm willing to do it , man I've learnt **** loads about these cars over these 2 weeks.

 

[SalSheikh]

Mo, the guys in hinckley will drop you off at the station if you want them too (about 10 mins away). i know they quote £40p/h etc but just say you want a remap and they do a free boost check for you and tell you what issues you have. they then offer you the chance of having it rectified by them or elsewhere before doing the map -this way you get it checked for free!

I've heard of Stealth Racing (Vince) and they do have a good rep and are well know on the VW scene.

 

[Mo Arif]

Yes it's Vince that I spoke to I explained the situation, he said to bring it down on the 18th

 

[SalSheikh]

well, i hope its something easy he finds thats causing the problem and nothing major.

 

[jamie1]

been following this thread, i can imagine its very frustrationg mate. have you tried tightening the actuator at all? if the diaphram has broken down or has been weakened it may only hold 0.4 bar of boost? its a 'free' thing you could try/eliminate?

or, i know you have replaced/ changed dv's, is it worth blanking the dv off completly to eliminate it leaking there?

 

[Mo Arif]

I'll find out soon enough fingers crossed, i'm running out of idea's and money at this rate

 

[Mo Arif]

been following this thread, i can imagine its very frustrationg mate. have you tried tightening the actuator at all? if the diaphram has broken down or has been weakened it may only hold 0.4 bar of boost? its a 'free' thing you could try/eliminate?

I made a thread here:

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/416129.aspx

The chap called Tony is wanting me to do that check on the actuator, which i've never heard of before, I'll do that next

I seriously don't know what i'm doing wrong or have missed out......

 

[LEE69]

His car wouldn't start was a track on the ecu board down, made it have no earth, lots more tracks are inside the ecu so maybe one has broke?

Follow the link i gave, you can tell if you need the skc code or not, if you do you will need vag tacho.
I swapped one on an ibiza and it never needed the skc,

 

[jamie1]

iv not heard of many actuators failing on these cars, BUT, it is possible. like i say its something you can try and it wont cost you, and at the minute anything seems like its worth a go! its simple to do, just wind the nut on the actuator rod on a little further. its not ideal but it would almost eliminate a faulty actuator.

 

[oldskool]

Yar, Vince at Stealth is a legend, a true enthusiast and I would trust him to do the work on your car. He is very well known for his quality work. Wish I was closer cos Id help you as much as possible with swapping bits from my car to yours etc. Inshallah (God willing) it will get sorted. Roll on the 18th.

 

[Pyro]

been following this thread, i can imagine its very frustrationg mate. have you tried tightening the actuator at all? if the diaphram has broken down or has been weakened it may only hold 0.4 bar of boost? its a 'free' thing you could try/eliminate?

or, i know you have replaced/ changed dv's, is it worth blanking the dv off completly to eliminate it leaking there?

Think this is good shout Jamie will eliminate something else

 

[Mo Arif]

After a helish 3-4 weeks, a sliced / ripped tendon on my left thumb, ripping open pipes, buying buying buying, tightening, running around spending pointless and stupid money, taken things off and back on again it's sorted!.................

Took it to 'Stealth Racing' in Coventry Warreckshire, A top bloke name 'Vince' really knows his stuff, within 10 minuets he found my fault...... are you ready for this? sure?........................

.......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

N75 VALVE PIPES WERE THE WRONG WAY AROUND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:

FFS!!!! after all of this and so much more that i've not updated this thread with..........

Impressed with his skills, I opted there and then for a Custom Stealth Racing Stage 2 Remap, the car made:


Before 166Bhp !!!!!!!!!!


After the remap, 227 Bhp and 245ft of torque!!!!! Vince said that theres potential for more but the clutch is slipping top end.

Happpy

 

[LEE69]

About time lol
Happy now?
Map makes you smile doesn't it

 

[StephenJ]

Been following this from the beginning...Over the moon for ya!

 

[Mo Arif]

About time lol
Happy now?
Map makes you smile doesn't it

It does indeed

Been following this from the beginning...Over the moon for ya!

Thanks fella, I'm glad it's over with!

 

[Pyro]

Bout fudging time mo what was the main issues? You can text me if your embarrassed by any

 

[Mo Arif]

that was the main issue! the n75 hoses were the wrong way around!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the one that comes from the actuator and the one what goes in to charge pipe were the wrong way around.

 

[Mo Arif]

p.s. I'll allow you guys to cuss me, maybe I deserve it but I did post a picture of the set-up and no one spotted it here so I guess you can't really take the piss..........

In the end I got a Stage 2