mine doesnt make any noise but I dont mind this as 1) my musics normally noisy enough and 2)Ive ridden a motorbike for 4 years so im used to not hearing my indicator.
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cfc2000
Guest
noisy bike, silent indicator on SEAT
Yes, I've had a twin Bonneville 750 for years and I attached a buzzer so I could hear the indicator, but with a crash helmet on you still don't hear anything. The audible warning (or acoustic signal module, as Elsawin calls it) is more for the lights on warning, as it is easy to leave the indicator stalk on for the sidelights position and flatten the battery.
Yes, I've had a twin Bonneville 750 for years and I attached a buzzer so I could hear the indicator, but with a crash helmet on you still don't hear anything. The audible warning (or acoustic signal module, as Elsawin calls it) is more for the lights on warning, as it is easy to leave the indicator stalk on for the sidelights position and flatten the battery.
cfc2000
Guest
Silent indicator problem solved
I said I'd post if I found the answer - here it is. Turned out to be what ElsaWin calls an "acoustic module", or buzzer. It is a little loudspeaker on the printed circuit board behind the speedo. I replaced it with a ceramic piezo buzzer from Maplins (don't get the type with an inbuilt multivibrator circuit - that circuit is on the pcb already - get the type that is used in birthday cards). The little loudspeaker is about 1 inch (25mm) in diameter and has to be prized out from a plastic holder. It's probably available as a PCB mounting buzzer elsewhere, but my solution is the cheapest. Seat say to buy the whole pcb and have it re-coded to the car. The main reason for the high prices quoted by garages is that there is quite a bit of labour involved. You have to take off the various bits of plastic round the speedo and steering column. It's in Elsawin, written in mangled English, but with decent line drawings. Be careful of the two connectors on the speedo head. They both have locking devices. One on the right is a purple and green can bus affair with a locking handle you have to lift up. The one on the left is smaller with a button you have to move to the out position to remove the socket. All the plastic is fairly flimsy, so be careful, especially with the bit of plastic that forms the inside of the instrument binnacle. Oh, and drop and pull back the steering wheel to reveal some of the torx screws. And disconnect the battery. Hope this helps someone.
PS You may find that if you dab a soldering iron tip on the contacts of the existing little loudspeaker it will re-make the circuit, as the soldering leaves a lot to be desired - probably just a dry joint on mine, but by the time I'd found that out, I'd removed the speaker. Piezo ceramic speakers are much more reliable anyway.
I said I'd post if I found the answer - here it is. Turned out to be what ElsaWin calls an "acoustic module", or buzzer. It is a little loudspeaker on the printed circuit board behind the speedo. I replaced it with a ceramic piezo buzzer from Maplins (don't get the type with an inbuilt multivibrator circuit - that circuit is on the pcb already - get the type that is used in birthday cards). The little loudspeaker is about 1 inch (25mm) in diameter and has to be prized out from a plastic holder. It's probably available as a PCB mounting buzzer elsewhere, but my solution is the cheapest. Seat say to buy the whole pcb and have it re-coded to the car. The main reason for the high prices quoted by garages is that there is quite a bit of labour involved. You have to take off the various bits of plastic round the speedo and steering column. It's in Elsawin, written in mangled English, but with decent line drawings. Be careful of the two connectors on the speedo head. They both have locking devices. One on the right is a purple and green can bus affair with a locking handle you have to lift up. The one on the left is smaller with a button you have to move to the out position to remove the socket. All the plastic is fairly flimsy, so be careful, especially with the bit of plastic that forms the inside of the instrument binnacle. Oh, and drop and pull back the steering wheel to reveal some of the torx screws. And disconnect the battery. Hope this helps someone.
PS You may find that if you dab a soldering iron tip on the contacts of the existing little loudspeaker it will re-make the circuit, as the soldering leaves a lot to be desired - probably just a dry joint on mine, but by the time I'd found that out, I'd removed the speaker. Piezo ceramic speakers are much more reliable anyway.
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