Steering lighter cold and harder hot

[RUM4MO]

I still think that the only way to prove that there is not much wear at these inner joints is to disconnect the TREs and check the articulation force required, no or little force required equals worn inner track rod joints. When new, the force required is quite high - all relative and non technical description, but still a reasonable way to describe it.

Edit:- after checking that out, if you think that there is no or minimal wear, that noise can only be due to rack wear maybe at the slipper point, but I don't think that we, ie DIYers can refurbish/adjust the preload on the rack at the slipper block/pinion.

 

[dm222]

From what I investigated to replace the inner tie rod at this car we need to remove the sterring box, so I will leave it for later...

Anyway with the car running and power steering working this noise does not happen.

I have it for at least 3 years and does not appear to be getting worse.

 

[RUM4MO]

No, these track rods can be replaced while the rack is still fitted to the car, you just need to fully turn the steering wheel to each side in turn to get better access to the end of the rack. I replaced both rods on a 2002 VW Polo with no issues, to make life easy, I did buy a tool made for that task - effectively a very long hollow extension that the rod passes through.

There are cheaper different tools out there - just make sure that you do not apply too much rotational force to the rack, normally the torque need to remove and fit the new rods are low.

 

[dm222]

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...eering_box/removing_and_installing_track_rod/

I based in this

When you replaced yours did you hear toc toc during driving?

 

[RUM4MO]

No, there did not appear to be any problems at all, the only problem was that during the annual test, MOT in UK, that car received an advisory for slight play or free movement on one of the track rods, I forget which side. After getting that warning, I checked the steering wheel for knocking and/or free movement, and could hear it and feel it, so I just bought a pair of track rods complete with TREs, new locking nuts just in case and a tool to remove these track rods. The only problem that I encountered was, the type of tool I bought had a very limited range of knuckle size, so while the one I bought fitted and removed the VWG track rod, it would not fit the TRW replacement that I had bought, so I had to buy the smaller version for that, which was a bit annoying but still a lot cheaper than buying the VWG parts and only needing the one tool.

 

[dm222]

It passed mot 3 times since I noticed this without warnings.
They do test that too here. I guess I will wait to get worse because I alredy have much to do at the car.

 

[dm222]

Hello again,

along with the shocks I ordered sway bar links, I dont know if it is this the name... because the rubber is gone in one of them

turns out the two I bought from TRW are very different....

One is light and the other is harder to move... so is this normal? one of them even returns to the center by itself...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LudGaDDNUQ

 

[RUM4MO]

Any new ARB droplinks that I have bought, and I have bought VW Group ones and TRW, have all been almost impossible to move when new - which is what I would expect.

The one that springs back to the centre position, would, I think be so slack/free that it is the rubber dust boot that is moving it back to the centre.

Edit:- now that I've checked a pair of new TRW ARB droplinks that are lying unused in my garage, very stiff to move from their centre position - all four ends.

Another Edit:- if you could get that "light" ended one swopped for a "proper" one that would be good, as that "light" ended one will probably cause knocking noises quite early in its service life - I'd think.

 

[dm222]

Ok thanks.

My dampers arrived today

RUM4NO did you ever lubrificate de steering column at the ibiza


Edit: I ask this because I forgot the window open during the night and in the morning the steering was very very smooth but probably just another coincidence.
It has been a long time since it was like this

 

[RUM4MO]

No, never done any work on that area of the car, though a SEAT dealer replaced the steering wheel sensor thing about a year ago.

Edit:- in my mind during a mis-diagnosed "battery draining issue" investigation!

 

[dm222]

Another rubber failing, please Ibiza give me a break...

 

[RUM4MO]

I can only think that it is your higher ambient temperatures that are causing these dust covers to fail - though I would have thought that SEAT would have checked all these parts for durability in hot climates.

Now, I don't think that SEAT will now supply new lower swivel assemblies by themselves - only as part of a new lower link - ie TCA!! So you will need to buy some aftermarket ones probably a ZF company etc.

 

[dm222]

I can only think that it is your higher ambient temperatures that are causing these dust covers to fail - though I would have thought that SEAT would have checked all these parts for durability in hot climates.

Now, I don't think that SEAT will now supply new lower swivel assemblies by themselves - only as part of a new lower link - ie TCA!! So you will need to buy some aftermarket ones probably a ZF company etc.

I called SEAT and they sell it but it costs 43€ + vat

6R0407366

Do you think it requires changing or should I leave it like this?

Edit: I just ordered one from Monroe, it was the only one avalaible

Hope it doesnt cause problems to replace only one.

Second one:

 

[RUM4MO]

Replacing the lower swivel assembly on only one side will be okay, it just that most people might think that if one side has failed, then the other side will also fail some - that is all. In your case, I'd hope that that will not happen. Just one thing, is it the RHS lower swivel that is leaking grease - I'm only asking that as it is only the RHS that you need to disconnect that swivel assembly on to replace front dampers, but, knowing your luck so far, it will be the LHS swivel that has failed!!?

 

[dm222]

Its the RHS but bought both yesterday.
Why only the rhs needs disconecting?

 

[RUM4MO]

It is because that on that side, the drive shaft starts to make contact with the lower track control arm before you have enough space to remove the damper. The LHS is okay so easier to work on, I forgotten which side has the longer and hollow drive shaft, but I'm guessing it is the RHS and that is why this problem exists.

 

[dm222]

Hope to see some improvements because I have a old one pairing with a new one.
That cant be good.

(Thats why Im changing both)

Edit: probably should also ordered two springs... but Ive read they dont wear that much and they are both the same, OEM.

 

[dm222]

A bit different than OEM ones

 

[RUM4MO]

Yes, that is the older version that fitted in between the top and bottom plates of the lower TCA, the correct version as you know, has studs and nuts and fits on top of the top plate of the lower TCA.

The newer lower TCA has the top and bottom plates touching each other at that point where as the original lower TCA had a space for that lower swivel assembly.

Edit:- now you can see the clearance that these bolts have when fitted to that lower swivel, as well as the clearance in the lower TCA, which leads to the possibility of miss alignment.

 

[dm222]

Thanks again for your help RUM4MO.

This "project" of changing the lower ball joints is cancelled for now and I will have to return them

Edit: and I will never buy on that site again!