Strange problem

Meatball

Guest
I've got a problem with my car at the moment.
I've had some problems lately with ignition, and have changed:

plugs
plug leads
dizzy cap + rotor arm
coil
replaced a short fuel hose

also cleaned up the throttle body.

It is running almost perfectly, but it occasionally just cuts out, :banghead: usually around idle.
it won't restart straight away but seems to go again after leaving it 10 - 15 seconds and a couple twists of the key, and runs smoothly. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? Could it be fuel pump/filter? I've got a new fuel filter that is still to be fitted.

Cheers.
 

Meatball

Guest
Cheers, but I've found out tonight that it doesn't seem to just be when it's at idle! Lost power driving at about 30, pulled in to a stop ok, but I switched it off then instead of trying to start it straight away, switched the ignition on and off twice then it started straight away.
I'm feeling it could well be a problem with the fuel pump or filter, is it possible that the pump could cut out occasionally, or the filter clogged up to an extent it would let the engine cut out? I'm thinking it could well be one of these as the idle is seeming fairly healthy now.
 

Cuproy

Active Member
Sep 4, 2007
48
0
Worthing, near Brighton
I had a really weird problem with my last MKII. It would sometimes start then seconds later cut out, or not start at all.

All it turned out to be was a loose connection along the fuse box! Open up your glove box and make sure everything's 'plugged in' firm and is where it should be!
 

Meatball

Guest
Car struggled to start up today, managed to get it going by giving it a good bit of throttle, but didn't seem to be running quite right, seemed like it's got a lack of beans and revs seem to drop quicker than usual if I drop the clutch, seemed to idle ok though.
Arrived at work and tried starting it again after switching it off, and it just won't start without giving it any throttle.
Also, with lifting the back seat base up to see if I can hear the fuel pump starting with the ignition, I couldn't hear anything. Would I need to take the metal cover off to hear it?
 

Meatball

Guest
Well it's been running fairly well the past week or so, idle still fine, but cut out again on the way to my mates house yesterday. Again, got going after trying to start it a couple times.
I'm looking at selling it now, so I'm wanting to get it sorted out, but then not wanting to put even more money into it! :shrug:
 

Meatball

Guest
Well the guy at the garage had a look but said there was little point in doing anything, as he could check out several things and run up a big bill without any guarantee of even finding what the problem was. so no damage to the wallet, but still no further! So... back here again!

Main problem is Idle is running a bit lumpy at about 800 RPM. Also occasional stalling and MPG seems to have dropped by a couple numbers (not definite on this though)
Possible causes for this:
Idle air valve- on some 8 valve engines this is a cylindrical part on top of the engine, but isn't on mine, and I've seen others without it. Would it be located elsewhere, or would it be the black box on the top of the engine?
Fuel pump relay- could cause the occasional stalling, but I wouldn't think this would cause the idle problem.
Fuel filter- Again I'm sceptical, as the car has no problems once it gets going, so I don't think it's restricting fuel flow.
Throttle body: I've cleaned up the butterfly(?), could there be problems with the electronic section?
Air flow meter(?, on the back of the air box)- Could this be causing any problems?
Crank Speed Sensor- I've heard this can cause problems, I've located it but no idea how to remove it, is there any way of telling if it's at fault?

As you can probably tell, this is starting to get on my nerves:censored:, and all help is greatly appreciated!
 

chris285

leon mk1 fr tdi
Nov 26, 2004
1,849
0
lincoln, uk
i had a problem with my 1.4 about 6 months ago, not running right when idle it kept revving and would cut out and needed a bit of throttle to start sometimes

had a habit of cutting out when coming to a stop with foot full on clutch and brake coming to a stop, turned out to be an electrical fault i think it was. got garage to diagnostic check it for me they reset and been fine ever since
 
Sep 20, 2006
756
0
Birmingham
Possible causes for this:
Idle air valve- on some 8 valve engines this is a cylindrical part on top of the engine, but isn't on mine, and I've seen others without it. Would it be located elsewhere, or would it be the black box on the top of the engine?
!

Ive got similar sort of problem at the moment. Been told that the idle control valve/idle stabilisation valve is part of the the throttle body. Im trying to source one at the moment to see if it cures the problem.
Ive seen the idle control valve on top of the engine block on some cars, maybe they were 2e engine codes?
 

Meatball

Guest
Could just be the 2e engines. I was at the scrappy at the weekend looking for some other bits and pieces and kept an eye out for a throttle body and air flow meter as well but no joy, the only VW with an AGG engine already had them taken!
I'd think that because they're the most mentioned fixes, I'd imagine either the throttle body or crank speed sensor will be the solution. It's either going to be expensive, complicated, or both!
 

Meatball

Guest
Having a quick search again, does anyone know if there is there any way to easily remove or check if the crank speed sensor is the problem? I've located it, but it isn't half awkward!
 

soamer

soamer
Jan 8, 2007
170
0
telford
where do you get your petrol as mine did the same for two weeks then cleared up till last night after i filled up it stared hunting then no power around 3000rpm but i put two bottles of redex in and all is fine
it may be cheap petrol ?
 

sooty16v

long.
Jul 25, 2007
322
0
South London
I had a similar problem, in terms of the cutting out. The car oneday decided that it did not want to rev above 3500rpm, everytime I hit that, the car would cut out! It would restart again...but then once it just totally died and the AA were on their way! It got diagnosed with a faulty Crank Position Sensor...which I changed, with no joy!
I then got my mechanic to spend a whole day on the car....and it turned out to be some wires which lead to the ECU!

So it could possibly be:

- Crank Position Sensor
- Electrical Wiring
 

Meatball

Guest
usually fill up with shell v-power, but I'll bash in some redex next time i fill up, and have a good check around the wiring tonight. fingers crossed I find something (as strange as it sounds to actually be hoping to find a problem with my car!)
Cheers guys, I'll let you know how things get on
 

Meatball

Guest
Well I had a poke about the wiring, nothing obvious. Noticed that while the engine is running, the throttle seems to open back and forth on it's own a tiny bit, Is it supposed to do that?

car cut out on the way to the gym this evening, and I think I heard a relay click as it lost power and stalled, but not sure. Had a poke around and everything is all plugged in fine, but relays 167(?) + 30 (ecu + fuel pump ones I think) were both pretty warm. Would excess heat be showing up a problem, or would these do that anyway? (had only been running a few minutes)
 
Sep 20, 2006
756
0
Birmingham
Well I had a poke about the wiring, nothing obvious. Noticed that while the engine is running, the throttle seems to open back and forth on it's own a tiny bit, Is it supposed to do that?

+ 30 (ecu + fuel pump ones I think) were both pretty warm. Would excess heat be showing up a problem, or would these do that anyway? (had only been running a few minutes)

My throttle body does that at the moment but then im having the same issues as you. Hopefully will get a throttle body this weekend (if any breakers have them) and see if that cures the problem.

Also i think the relay numbered 30 is ecu and fuel.
 
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