Tearing my hair out over my LCR 225

[rk696]

You can tell the AIT sensor connector as been removed, because there's a clean patch where someone's thumb has been (as well as thumb prints), and the actual sensor under the connector looks brand new to me.

MAF looks pretty clean too. All the photos you have posted are of the connectors, not the actual sneosrs, so of course they will look old.

p.s. The wiring on the AIT sensor is normal.

 

[rk696]

If it's coming up with torque sensor error (There isn't a torque sesnor AFAIK), it could be anything related to power.

The ECU has a built in torque model, and has a narrow band between requested torque and actual torque. If the actual torque strays too far from the requested torque, errors occur and you get weird problems such as limp mode and surging etc etc. I had to have the map tweaked because the surging was happening because of this.

Personally, I would do a boost leak test, and maybe get the standard map flashed on and see if the problem disappears.

Do you have a boost gauge?

 

[Mastodon2]

If it's coming up with torque sensor error (There isn't a torque sesnor AFAIK), it could be anything related to power.

The ECU has a built in torque model, and has a narrow band between requested torque and actual torque. If the actual torque strays too far from the requested torque, errors occur and you get weird problems such as limp mode and surging etc etc. I had to have the map tweaked because the surging was happening because of this.

Personally, I would do a boost leak test, and maybe get the standard map flashed on and see if the problem disappears.

Do you have a boost gauge?

I have a boost gauge yeah - it doesn't flip around or seem to do anything unusual on boost, at least not as far as I can tell. Runs about 25hg vacuum with the wheels turning on a closed throttle, 0 on a light throttle and then builds to about 22psi or so depending on how far the throttle is opened. As I say, I'm almost certain I'd driven it harder and it never used to do this, which did make me think a sensor had gone.

All of the times it has crapped out on me it has been over 5000rpm in second or third gear. Could a dodgy map have moved the redline down and replaced a rev limiter with a cut out?

I'm going to go back to the garage tomorrow night on the way home from work and see what to do. If they suggest another diagnostic (hopefully they will waive the fee) I will take one of them out and try and reproduce the fault with them in the car, diagnostic running in real time.

As for a new map, I had no idea the REVO maps were so expensive, I wonder if Seat would want £400 to flash the factory standard map back on!

 

[RS6]

If i was you i would buy a new maf sensor mine got changed at 47k because it was reading low

A new TIP pipe and get rid of that crappy filter try standard airbox or jetex cone filter car is cutting out because of something related to the above i bet, get the garage to do some logs, these will tell you if a sensor is performing low, make sure the car goes in to a good VAG specialist

they will be able to tell you if its been mapped already i would get shot of the map on there if its some crappy one, most fault codes that can appear could be map related

 

[Mastodon2]

If i was you i would buy a new maf sensor mine got changed at 47k because it was reading low

A new TIP pipe and get rid of that crappy filter try standard airbox or jetex cone filter car is cutting out because of something related to the above i bet, get the garage to do some logs, these will tell you if a sensor is performing low, make sure the car goes in to a good VAG specialist

they will be able to tell you if its been mapped already i would get shot of the map on there if its some crappy one, most fault codes that can appear could be map related

I took it to probably the best regarded indie VAG specialist in the North East, the car was scanned with the official VW software too.

I know the air filter is crap, it's looking pretty damn ratty now, that was on my "to do" list before the car started having problems.

The mechanic who drove the car said he definitely thought it had been mapped, his words were "no doubt about it" because it "absolutely flies" in a fashion that an unmapped one would not.

Where can I get a new TIP from? I'd read that Badger did good ones, but once I found myself on their website and could make head nor tail of the layout!

 

[Mastodon2]

Hold on, here is a bit of an idea;

could the spring in my dump valve be too weak? Perhaps what is happening, as my turbo reaches full boost is that the spring is collapsing under the pressure and as the intake pressure drops the engine shits a brick and goes into limp mode. Like I said, my car has not always had this fault, and it is possible I suppose that the spring could have weakened over time. Does this sound possible, or like a load of bollocks?

 

[RS6]

Yeah badger 5 TIP is the best one to get you will have to phone him directly though not sure they are listed on his website, either that or you can get other types from ebay or forge directly they are much stronger and will not collapse on boost

can't see the dv in your pic possible its still the standard Bosch one which is a no no get it replaced with the forge 007p asap!

Then check the spring in the dv, after remapping most need to be changed from green to a stiffer yellow spring also give it a service whilst you take it apart also.
again your vag specialist should be able to confirm whats needed hope that helps

 

[Mastodon2]

I have a Forge dump valve, pretty sure it's a 007p. I was listening to it this afternoon as I was driving, it sounds like it's partially venting on a part throttle, is this normal behaviour? On wide open throttle as the boost climbs quickly it seems to be silent (or at least overtaken by turbo and engine noise) and then it makes a sharp hiss on a closing throttle.

Having never owned a turbo car before, I'm not sure what the normal operation should be, should it vent on a part throttle, or does this sound like a dodgy spring?

If a new spring could fix this I'd be elated, it would be so much better to fix it with £18 than potentially throwing hundreds down the toilet chasing the wrong thing!

 

[rk696]

It sounds kinda normal to me mate. I can't see what difference a stronger spring would make anyway as the vac line on the dv is under boost anyway, so the boost pressure will keep it shut (NOBODY FLAME ME HERE!! lol)

The bosch dv's are actually OK, as long as they're the 710N version. If they're the older one, they may split and leak. Failing that, as siad, get a forge 007, apr r1 or a compbrake one. Just make sure it is a recirculating one.

Just check it is a recirc valve, as you said it made a loud hiss. Recirc valves are usually fairly quiet.