Water leak into footwell - dodgy seal info and DIY repair guide (Image links dead)

bigfella_V5

MG ZS 180 - V6
Feb 25, 2007
274
0
What a mission that was! Took the door panel off yesterday and I don't recommend it. I ran a bead of silkaflex around the door and panel and it all got rather messy - but it certainly won't be leaking!

I recommend just loosening it so you can get between it and door to just run a bead of sealant around it rather than taking it off.

Problem I came accross is that the door lock and central locking motor is attached to the panel - whats that about!? I removed the bracket and sealed the holes as I think its silly to have the lock attached to the panel as you cannot remove just the panel on its own. I also didn't have the correct torx bit for the door lock so couldn't remove it anyhow.

Fingers crossed there won't be any water coming in!
 

bigfella_V5

MG ZS 180 - V6
Feb 25, 2007
274
0
NIGHTMARE! Opened drivers door this morning and *splosh*, the sill had filled up with water. It never makes it over the sill/seal but it means the car steams up. It doesn't make the footwells wet.

The sealant had 16 hours to go off before it rained and I used Silkaflex so it should not have leaked, not sure whats going on really.

I am pretty mad with the car at the moment and I rang AmD as they are only 10 mins away to find out about servicing costs and fixing the problem on all 4 doors. They are aware of the problem so hopefully will be able to do a good job in sorting it if they have dealt with the problem before.

Maybe if the costs are not too pricey I might get the leak fixed, a full service and a remap!
 

bigfella_V5

MG ZS 180 - V6
Feb 25, 2007
274
0
look's like they have finally recognised the fault - no chance of a recall for this though so warranty only or pay up or DIY
Does anyone know what part number this is?

If not a mate and I are going to have a go at the remaining 3 doors and look at the other one I attempted. Going to be removing the old foam seal from around the door panel and using some seal/mastic on a role. Its like a role of selotape sealant stuff, should be much neater and cleaner to use. After the panel has been fixed on I will be running a bead of clear silicon around the door panel before refitting the interior panel.
 

markmck

f!!#*** Computers
Feb 1, 2002
937
0
ballymena
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Does anyone know what part number this is?

If not a mate and I are going to have a go at the remaining 3 doors and look at the other one I attempted. Going to be removing the old foam seal from around the door panel and using some seal/mastic on a role. Its like a role of selotape sealant stuff, should be much neater and cleaner to use. After the panel has been fixed on I will be running a bead of clear silicon around the door panel before refitting the interior panel.
Part number on the side of the box: AKD49701004R10

Description on invoice: "SAKD49701004R10 BC4.1* SEAL CORD"

Price: £25.37 (£29.81 inc vat)

3B0868243 - Door trim clips pack of 10 - £7.90

The seal cord is 10 metres per box in 4 rolls of 2.5 metres
 

PR7878

Guest
Thanks for all the info. Just did the problem door and then did 2 of the others no problem, and when it stops raining I'll do the last. That seal cord is an absolute rip off though - must be a cheaper alternative.

So question now is how do I dry out the raer footwell that is like a swimming pool?

PR
 

Dr Nick

Guest
I have a small pond in the rear passenger side footwell, although the front passengers footwell seems bone dry. Is this likely to be the cause?
 

PR7878

Guest
Yes. Follow the advice on the first page, very useful. It took 20mins per door once i'd finished the first one. Good tip is don't unscrew the door card completely, only need to untighten it enough to remove the dodgy seal and replace it with the new one.
 

Dr Nick

Guest
Yes. Follow the advice on the first page, very useful. It took 20mins per door once i'd finished the first one. Good tip is don't unscrew the door card completely, only need to untighten it enough to remove the dodgy seal and replace it with the new one.
Cheers, will do....

Hopefully I'll be able to have a go at it tomorrow once the weather improves!
 

2slim

Guest
Yes. Follow the advice on the first page, very useful. It took 20mins per door once i'd finished the first one. Good tip is don't unscrew the door card completely, only need to untighten it enough to remove the dodgy seal and replace it with the new one.
Excellent guide. I removed all but 2 bolts these were just slackened, wedged open the door card using 2 bits of wood, cleaned & dried the existing seal then ran a double bead of silicone on the door.



This seems to have done the trick, no leaks at all.

This technique may be classed as a Quick Fix (bodge as some-one said!) but it's been 6months and still no leaks.
 
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sbhoy

Guest
leaky door seals

had this problem with my old xreg cupra got my m8 who works for seat to do all 4 doors re-seald for around £40 not that expensive but pain in the neck all the same he said common problem with seat
 

bmc07

Guest
Morning

First off thanks for the info - exactly what I was after. Hopefully with help of ex-mechanic brother will tackle this at weekend.

Must admit currently my Toledo is a pretty smelly place to be as it's been abandoned in airport carparks quite a lot recently. Apols if you've all been asked before but is there a good way to get rid of the damp smell?

TIA

Baz
 

paul27uk

Guest
Hi, does anyone please have the part number for that tape! or how i'd get a hold of it from a parts department. I'd feel a bit sad asking them for some black sticky stuff!

I have a VW and I have the same problem i'm 80% sure of it. I am keen to get this sorted ASAP as it's pi$$ing down constantly here and I need to stop the water in my footwell!

Thanks again for your hopefully quick replies!
 

paul27uk

Guest
Sorry about asking, I only noticed the first page at first! SORRY!

One thing though. If I buy the tape, does that mean I don't have to reseal with anything? Is it simply stick on and re tighten? DO I do it all around the panel or just the lower sections? If someone has t ime to go do A,B,C i'd appreciate it. I only wanna do this once!
 

bigfella_V5

MG ZS 180 - V6
Feb 25, 2007
274
0
Once you have the sealing cord all you need to do is remove door panel, remove the metal panel that secures the window motor etc. Then clean all the old sh1tty foam off so there is a good non porus surface the cord can attatch to.

Once thats done reassemble - Robert's your mothers brother!

Don't try to do it with the door panel still attached - water can still get through the old foam = bodge.
 
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