Yeah i've read all your posts but I can put load on it on the m/way forever without any rise above 90 on the gauge. Also stuck my finger round the hole where the thermostat goes and it feels solid.
Is it easy to take the belt cover off so I can at least look to see if there is a leak near the waterpump?
Been told to look into an airlock now.
Was looking so forward to having a Seat but it's just a pain.
Is it easy to take the belt cover off so I can at least look to see if there is a leak near the waterpump?
Been told to look into an airlock now.
Was looking so forward to having a Seat but it's just a pain.
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I'd suggest sit on your drive with the engine at 3k (motorway speed) and I could almost guarantee you cooking the engine. Irrespective of pump/gasket or both (open to debate) motorway speeds will cool the engine to what would be deemed to be operating temperatures. I've had this both a few times with older cars in days gone and as soon as you're off the motorway/stop the temperature will rocket.
VAG engines aside experience suggests gasket but with the infamous impeller who knows.
VAG engines aside experience suggests gasket but with the infamous impeller who knows.
If you want the fault diagnosing then have an exhaust gas to coolant contamination test carried out by a garage who you trust which will tell you if exhaust gas is entering the coolant system, there's no point keep posting near enough the same thing on here until you get a definitive answer.
And start with the "cheaper" fix first - belt, tensioner and pump. Then progress onto the HG.
And start with the "cheaper" fix first - belt, tensioner and pump. Then progress onto the HG.
If it is a problem with broken impeller, you won't see any leaks or other external signs unfortunately.
well if you already had this done then it would rule out the HG. so its either the water pump, thermostat, air lock or leaking matrix.
you say its due a cambelt change soon so why dont you get it done now replace the pump and see how it goes from there....
Ok cheers think i'll bite the bullet and try the waterpump and cambelt then.
Was going to try yet another thermostat as the bottom hose coming off the thermostat housing is still cool after 40 mins of driving whereas the top hose it hot and pressurized.
Thanks everyone that posted.
Was going to try yet another thermostat as the bottom hose coming off the thermostat housing is still cool after 40 mins of driving whereas the top hose it hot and pressurized.
Thanks everyone that posted.
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If you where getting cylinder gas into your expansion tank then over night to preasure would push the water back into your cylinders and starting would be smokey and it would miss. you wouldn'y hold any pressure in the expansion tank. If you keeping pressure for that long than your system is sound. The vag water pumps are rubish. you better off with an after market pump with a metal impellor. The plastic ones brake up into little bits or just come loose on the shaft.
I got a Quinton Hazel all metal pump and went to the dealers for my belt and tensioners as i've found that they aren't that much dearer and i couldn't be bothered ending up with the wrong parts when my car was stripped down.
Does anyone know what the cost of replacing a timing/cambelt and waterpump is for a 2001 Toledo 110 TDI. The cheapest quote I have had so far is 285 all in (parts and labour) Is this reasonable or does anyone know of any indy garages or other reliable garages in the manchester area that can beat this? (the only other cheapest way would be to do it yourself, if you knew how and I don't)
Thanks All
Thanks All
Well had the timing belt and waterpump replaced with a metal impeller one today.
The plastic props were fine but appearently there was a leak on the seal and deposits of water on the old pump so hopefully this will be the end of my coolant loss problems. He said the reason for me losing most coolant on m/ways was due to it working harder and the seal expanding - hence the water evaporating instantly.
Apparently the pressure staying in the system is normal. But i'll keep an eye on everything over the next few days.
The plastic props were fine but appearently there was a leak on the seal and deposits of water on the old pump so hopefully this will be the end of my coolant loss problems. He said the reason for me losing most coolant on m/ways was due to it working harder and the seal expanding - hence the water evaporating instantly.
Apparently the pressure staying in the system is normal. But i'll keep an eye on everything over the next few days.
fingers crossed mate that its all sorted.... you may have to add a little coolent once the system has settled. what did you end up paying for the job ??
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