cutes6

Active Member
Oct 20, 2013
47
0
North East near Consett
Good morning,

This is quite a long post but I am trying to give as much info as possible so that people can help me.

Bit of background -

I have a 115,000 AMK Cupra R with a silicon TIP and open cone filter, mpg and performance seems to have dropped off recently, although it may have been like this since I have owned the car, I can confirm that the MPG has got worse but that maybe my driving style as I get used to the car, tick over has definitely got a bit more lumpy.

I have replaced the spark plugs to NGK Platinum, had the cambelt, water pump and oil changed with 5/40 synthetic.

I have taken off and checked all pipes including the ones under the inlet manifold and replaced the one that was perished/ split and so I am reasonably confident all is well with these.

Tickover can be bit lumpy sometimes but it starts well and runs well, I have a boost gauge fitted and it climbs to 12 psi and then holds around 10psi under WOT and shows -25 on tickover - assuming the gauge is reasonable accurate but it does hold boost.

Engine sounds nice and quiet even from cold and there is no smoke from the exhaust even after being driven hard on engine over run etc so I think Turbo seals are OK.

After reading many threads on this forum I have spent sometime this morning running a series of tests to hope that someone can give me some advice as it is clear that my power is well down.

The conditions for the test were 2 degrees outside and the same piece of road each time which is uphill and carried out in 3rd gear.

There are 3 tests with a combination of measuring blocks - please have a look and if anybody could give me some clues what to do as I am unsure of what to check next - the only point I would make is that stationary at 3,000 revs measuring block 003 tells me my maf reading is around 10.5 which I believe is a high ?

Anyway here are the logs -

003020112.jpg


002115118.jpg


003118031.jpg


Whilst I know a far bit about the mechanics side of things I am now at a loss where to look next so I would really appreciate some advice from people that are far more clued up than I am

Thanks for looking
 
as bill said, looking at your maf readings they are low. equates to 175 bhp! most likely the maf is old and tired.

if you do try and replace do not go for a cheap ebay version. I would go genuine personally
 
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Well I have just been and bought a New Bosch MAF sensor and put it on, on the way back on the motor way I managed to get this log before the computer died.

I could not start at 2,000 revs as I was on the motorway but it gives you an idea of the improvement but still not quite there, highest reading was 165 g/s which I think is around 205 bhp ?

AfterNewMaf.jpg


Is there some other readings I can take tomorrow that will help people let me know if everything looks OK now, thanks again.
 
Sorry just one more thing the mbar reading of 1860, am I right that you take this figure and take away 1,000 which leaves 860 mbar which is 12.4 psi and therefore I was getting this as boost ?
 
requested vs actual boost would be nice to see i think block 115 if i remember right

scratch that already a log with it on..
 
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Just wanted to say thanks for the replies

Yesterday I fitted anew MAF sensor and this morning I carried out the same tests as before and I have attached the logs which were measured on exactly the same bit of road as before.

Things are looking better and I would appreciate some reassurance that the readings are about right, so if you could have a look and let me know this is the case please.

Sun2115118.jpg


Sun320112.jpg


Sun231.jpg


Thanks for your feedback so far - do these figures look OK for 115,000 mile engine ?
 
Well today I replaced the PCV valve and the T piece it sits in and from further tests I am now getting 164 G/S reading which is about 205 BHP so I think this is as good as I am going to get with a high mileage amk engine.

I still have a very slight hesitation at 1800 revs in 2nd and 3rd gear on coasting throttle but I will have to live with that.

Oh and yes I broke the dip stick that everybody warns you about [:@][:@] a new one on order……….

Also my battery light flickered a couple of times but not since, it did the about 1 month ago, this love of these cars never ends, I looked at code 20 in the heater display unit and it reads 13.8 to 14.1 volts while running so fingers crossed its not the flipping alternator just about to fail. Igniton off the battery reads 11.7 volts.

Thanks for every one's input, I will see how I get on over the coming weeks
 
Well today I replaced the PCV valve and the T piece it sits in and from further tests I am now getting 164 G/S reading which is about 205 BHP so I think this is as good as I am going to get with a high mileage amk engine.

I still have a very slight hesitation at 1800 revs in 2nd and 3rd gear on coasting throttle but I will have to live with that.

Oh and yes I broke the dip stick that everybody warns you about [:@][:@] a new one on order……….

Also my battery light flickered a couple of times but not since, it did the about 1 month ago, this love of these cars never ends, I looked at code 20 in the heater display unit and it reads 13.8 to 14.1 volts while running so fingers crossed its not the flipping alternator just about to fail. Igniton off the battery reads 11.7 volts.

Thanks for every one's input, I will see how I get on over the coming weeks

Don't ever count these bad boys out on mileage, my AMK has done 187k and still on Badger5's rollers produced a gnats under 270bhp and 284 badger torques (329ib/ft) perserve with it, you will get to the bottom of the lower power figure.
 
You better believe it dude! :) Bill had to reign it in as well, because it wanted to produce more power than that, but I'm on stock rods :( saving now to go back to Bill for rods and a tweak on the map :)


I find it amazing what a good engine can produce, I will consider getting mine mapped but only when I get a consistent reliable performance as I will be doing some track days in a couple of months time :p:p
 
I find it amazing what a good engine can produce, I will consider getting mine mapped but only when I get a consistent reliable performance as I will be doing some track days in a couple of months time :p:p

My advice is to get a smoke test done on all the inlet side of things, I spent ages tracing air leaks and sorting them, and a smoke test would have allowed me to find them all in one go. I ditched all the PCV breather system a nd went for an oil catch tank, ditches a whole world of pipes that all start to break down and leak under the inlet manifold, that pretty much sorted all my air leaks in one swoop. These bad boys do suffer from air leaks, made a massive difference in performance and idle quality once I had sorted them. Good luck mate :)