Bolt pattern is only one factor to consider. You also need to consider the diameter of the wheel (although you seem to have already decided on 17” which would be OK), the width of the wheel (the “J’ size), the offset and the centre bore size. If you get a set of wheels that are wide with too aggressive an offset, then you run the risk of tyre rubbing issues. There’s a useful calculator on
www.willtheyfit.com - if you input details of your existing and new wheel / tyre set-up, it’ll calculate the critical numbers for you so you’ll be able to assess whether you’ll have any rubbing or clearance issues. Also, bear in mind the standard factory size of tyre that Seat fit to 17” alloys is 215/40 R17 which isn’t a particularly common tyre size so they tend to be quite expensive. Therefore, don‘t overlook the fact that you may need to budget for a new set of tyres if any wheels you buy are without tyres or have a different size of tyre fitted.
Fitting different wheels is a modification for insurance purposes, so you’ll need to inform your insurance company.
Edit; if you go for a set aftermarket alloys you may need new wheel bolts. Seat OEM alloys use bolts with a radius seat and most aftermarket alloys use bolts with a tapered seat (there are a few aftermarket alloys where your existing OEM bolts can be re-used - e.g. some designs of Mak alloys). It’s
really important that bolts with the correct seat type are used - the seat type must match the profile of the contact surface in the bolt hole of the wheel to ensure there’s maximum contact between the mating surfaces. Using the incorrect bolts could result in them working loose - or worse still - a wheel coming off the car. You can see the difference in the two different bolt types on the picture below - the bolt on the left has a tapered seat and the one on the right has a radius seat. Also, really important bolts are the correct length and thread size.
