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Mismatched wheels on one axle - the tyre size calculator gives the difference at rest. As your speed increases, the tyre on the smaller rim will grow more - there is more rubber to flex. This may be the source of the speed limitation. The car system that is affected will be the ABS system, which will see the different rates of rotation and eventually decide one wheel has lost its grip.
thought it usually primes when you turn the key lol but anyway it makes a noise
Theres 2 fuel pumps innit.
One primes on door opening (the one in the fuel tank) and one primes on turning key.
Nope just the one pump in there mate
It is supposed to prime when you open the door and also when you turn the key on. But it only primes when you open the door if there is no fuel pressure. It then primes again when you turn on the ignition.![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
And you CAN heel-and-toe... true, the ECU doesn't let you hold down the accelerator and the brake at the same time. But it operates on a "last input" system. Try this...
Drive down the road, foot on the accelerator as normal. Now press the brake enough to slightly slow you down. After around 1 sec the throttle will close, and the car then slows down.
Now try this...
Drive down the road, come COMPLETELY off the accelerator and gently apply the brake. Now go back on the accelerator, the car will build boost and start to accelerate. "Brake boosting" in effect.
I don't know why it heel-and-toe doesn't work for some people, all I can think is you're holding the gas for too long trying to rev it. It is only supposed to be a blip on the gas. I've had no problems with heel-and-toe for the last 6 years and 70,000 miles I've had my LC.
It is supposed to prime when you open the door and also when you turn the key on. But it only primes when you open the door if there is no fuel pressure. It then primes again when you turn on the ignition.
And you CAN heel-and-toe... true, the ECU doesn't let you hold down the accelerator and the brake at the same time. But it operates on a "last input" system. Try this...
Drive down the road, foot on the accelerator as normal. Now press the brake enough to slightly slow you down. After around 1 sec the throttle will close, and the car then slows down.
Now try this...
Drive down the road, come COMPLETELY off the accelerator and gently apply the brake. Now go back on the accelerator, the car will build boost and start to accelerate. "Brake boosting" in effect.
I don't know why it heel-and-toe doesn't work for some people, all I can think is you're holding the gas for too long trying to rev it. It is only supposed to be a blip on the gas. I've had no problems with heel-and-toe for the last 6 years and 70,000 miles I've had my LC.
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paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
i noticed the other day if you ever lose your fuse removing tool an need another one there is one on the opposite side of the car in the same place.
i noticed the other day if you ever lose your fuse removing tool an need another one there is one on the opposite side of the car in the same place.
Is there a removable panel on the nearside of the car too (never noticed)?
i noticed the other day if you ever lose your fuse removing tool an need another one there is one on the opposite side of the car in the same place.
Not standard I'd of thought, mine hasn't got one.
csd_19 wrote
And you CAN heel-and-toe... true, the ECU doesn't let you hold down the accelerator and the brake at the same time. But it operates on a "last input" system. Try this...
Drive down the road, foot on the accelerator as normal. Now press the brake enough to slightly slow you down. After around 1 sec the throttle will close, and the car then slows down.
Now try this...
Drive down the road, come COMPLETELY off the accelerator and gently apply the brake. Now go back on the accelerator, the car will build boost and start to accelerate. "Brake boosting" in effect.
That isn't heel-and-toe.
Heel-and-toe is where you brake with the toe end of your right foot, declutch with the left foot, go to neutral, let the clutch off, work the accelerator pedal with your right heel (still braking with the toe) to synchronise the gears, dip the clutch again, engage lower gear, come off the clutch. If there isn't room to use heel and toe, the sides of the right foot can be used instead (but it's harder, and needs the pedals to be in the right places).
It is done so as to match the speeds between the shafts in the gearbox to let the lower gear engage quietly and quickly, or if you have worn or no synchromesh.
The whole point is that you change down, synchronising the speeds of the gears *while maintaining maximum braking on the entry to the corner*. In the course of normal road driving it isn't necessary, because you should never be that close to the edge of the envelope. Synchromesh does the job well enough.
And you can't do it because the ECU won't accept the accelerator pedal input.
And you CAN heel-and-toe... true, the ECU doesn't let you hold down the accelerator and the brake at the same time. But it operates on a "last input" system. Try this...
Drive down the road, foot on the accelerator as normal. Now press the brake enough to slightly slow you down. After around 1 sec the throttle will close, and the car then slows down.
Now try this...
Drive down the road, come COMPLETELY off the accelerator and gently apply the brake. Now go back on the accelerator, the car will build boost and start to accelerate. "Brake boosting" in effect.
That isn't heel-and-toe.
Heel-and-toe is where you brake with the toe end of your right foot, declutch with the left foot, go to neutral, let the clutch off, work the accelerator pedal with your right heel (still braking with the toe) to synchronise the gears, dip the clutch again, engage lower gear, come off the clutch. If there isn't room to use heel and toe, the sides of the right foot can be used instead (but it's harder, and needs the pedals to be in the right places).
It is done so as to match the speeds between the shafts in the gearbox to let the lower gear engage quietly and quickly, or if you have worn or no synchromesh.
The whole point is that you change down, synchronising the speeds of the gears *while maintaining maximum braking on the entry to the corner*. In the course of normal road driving it isn't necessary, because you should never be that close to the edge of the envelope. Synchromesh does the job well enough.
And you can't do it because the ECU won't accept the accelerator pedal input.
Surely thats heel and toe combined with double de-clutching??
Not necessary these days coz of the synchro.
And without trying to start an argument, you can brake and accelerate at the same time, as csd_19 says, brake first, then gas. Maybe this doesnt work on all cars, but does on mine.
Not necessary these days coz of the synchro.
And without trying to start an argument, you can brake and accelerate at the same time, as csd_19 says, brake first, then gas. Maybe this doesnt work on all cars, but does on mine.
Never said my suggestion was heel-and-toe, just said its a way to prove the ecu will accept an accelerator input when you have the brakes on - and also close the throttle if you press the brake when you have the accelerator pressed.
What you described up there is as JimCupra says, you've combined double declutching in with the heel and toe.
So what am I doing when I approach say, a roundabout at the end of a motorway, start braking, and as the revs drop with my foot still on the brakes, blip the gas and fire in a downchange? My braking pressure hasn't changed, I've blipped the throttle to bring the revs up to match the lower gear, instead of just doing a downchange to 5th or 4th and letting the clutch take the strain instead.
Not trying to start an argument on here either, I know the ECU WILL close the throttle after around a second of applying the brakes with the accelerator pressed. If you've got a boost gauge in the car you'll see it illustrated well. From a steady speed with the gauge showing maybe -5mmHg it will drop to -25mmHg when you keep the brake pressed along with the accelerator - if you keep the accelerator at the same position then release the brake pedal after a second or so the gauge will return to where it was.
Maybe it genuinely doesn't work on all ECUs / engine codes, I know on my AUQ LC it does. Could be it was taken away on the AMK and BAM engines?
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Interesting. It's a safety feature, meant to ensure that foot-on-brakes = Slow Down. As such, it may have been deliberately omitted from the ECU's of "sporty" petrol engines. Or, if yours is remapped, it may have been mapped out. I think it's more immediate on diesel cars, on mine it cuts in straight away.
I read your original description as foot off accelerator, brake, then foot back on accelerator. It wasn't clear to me that you were keeping your foot on the brake while blipping the throttle, which is heel-and-toe. Double declutching is usually associated with it - there's less point with a synchromesh box, unless you're racing.
Left foot braking is, of course, the technique that the ECU really snookers.
I read your original description as foot off accelerator, brake, then foot back on accelerator. It wasn't clear to me that you were keeping your foot on the brake while blipping the throttle, which is heel-and-toe. Double declutching is usually associated with it - there's less point with a synchromesh box, unless you're racing.
Left foot braking is, of course, the technique that the ECU really snookers.
Yes as that is where the fuses are on a LHD car
Gathered as much
Had a look today and whilst there's an arrow on the trim to indicate where one would place a screwdriver to prise off the panel there is no actual hole (like there is on the drivers side).
I should have cleaned up that post - re-reading it now is a bit confusing. The original description of "foot off accelerator, brake, then foot back on accelerator" I was using to show that (at least on 1.8Ts) the ecu will allow the throttle to open even with the brakes on.
Left-foot braking, always fun the first time you try it.
But the ecu DEFINITELY doesn't like it!
I always rev-match before I engage a lower gear by blipping the throttle, but I have to come off the brake for this...
I don't know if I'd be able to heel-and-toe because of the pedal layout (or maybe my lack of ability).
I don't know if I'd be able to heel-and-toe because of the pedal layout (or maybe my lack of ability).
I seem to remember reading somewhere that, although you can apply the throttle with the brakes on, you'll only get 10% power - maybe enough to rev the engine in neutral/declutched, but not overcome the brakes when not (hence being a safety feature to prevent people accidentally hitting both pedals and driving through the back wall of their garage).
there is a panel that comes off like the fuse box , i had it off recently due to something rattling around the inside off dash (like a loose nut/screw rolling back and fore into corners etc )
didnt take notice of the spare fuse remover if there was one or not
didnt take notice of the spare fuse remover if there was one or not
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