Leon FR Pre-FL Projector Headlights wanted!

[robthebubble]

I think that kit would work fine, the hardest thing is making sure that the shrouds fit over the whole of the projector. Not many fit over the FX-R but the one I'm using does which I is why it looks better IMO.

You will only need to buy the projectors, D2S bulbs, buty sealant, bulb adapters and shrouds...that's if you already have a HID kit. If you are interested I can get you to contact the chap I got mine from....great coms and service and will be fairly cheap!

 

[Willz17]

I think that kit would work fine, the hardest thing is making sure that the shrouds fit over the whole of the projector. Not many fit over the FX-R but the one I'm using does which I is why it looks better IMO.

You will only need to buy the projectors, D2S bulbs, buty sealant, bulb adapters and shrouds...that's if you already have a HID kit. If you are interested I can get you to contact the chap I got mine from....great coms and service and will be fairly cheap!

That would be ace if you could get me that information mate =]
But i think i will wait for your EPIC how to do guide just to be safe!!!
I cant wait for your writeup mate, really looking forward to it, and hopefully it will give me the courage to start doing and less talking xD

Thanks Rob =]

 

[robthebubble]

Just took this photo with a different shroud placed in the reflector. As you can see the reflector is slightly oval however this particular one fits inside the reflector. My projector housing (not the lens) was wider than the shroud which is why I didn't use the reflector, however the projector kit you have mentioned should be fine.

 

[Willz17]

Just took this photo with a different shroud placed in the reflector. As you can see the reflector is slightly oval however this particular one fits inside the reflector. My projector housing (not the lens) was wider than the shroud which is why I didn't use the reflector, however the projector kit you have mentioned should be fine.

looks good rob,
I might actually split my current headlights, if i dont find any OEM projectors soon.
Is there a specific standard for the new piece of metal to creat the cutoff?
I mean is it just a straight piece which goes on the back of the original cutoff plate?
Because i noticed that there is a slight kick up on OEM xenons. So do we make a plate which goes like this? --> -------\______ OR like this? dead straight? ---------------

Sorry but its best way i could explain it^^
And sorry for asking so many questions mate! =/

EDIT:

Picture i quickly sketched up to explain.

Circle = Projector Lens
Solid Lines = Cut Off Plate
Dashed Lines = Standard Cut off plate behind the new plate being made
Which Option is correct? Option 1 or 2?

Hope the picture helps

 

[ahmedelbaghdady]

Appologies for all the questions!!
But thanks for answering and if i was to buy, i think it would have to be the Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit which uses D2S bulbs?

Your making this sound very easy xD The hard bit is to make it look good?
Might be worth a shot if i ever take a long vacation/break from work ^^

I hope they work and look perfect

 

[TarekElsakka]

@Willz I am pretty sure Option 1 is how OEM projector lenses are done, however if I opt to do mine it'll most definitely be Option 2 because it just looks much better, especially when you look at the alignment on the back of the car in front of you.

I am not sure why the kick-up is important, but I am guessing that the car could fail the MOT test without it? You'll have to ask about this.

That's the thing, though, Will, do we completely remove the old plate and insert a new one or do we, perhaps, add something in front of the old plate in order to make it a straight line or create whatever kick-up is desired? And how do you actually access that plate? Do you take the projector lens itself apart or is it easily accessible once you have access to the lens?

 

[robthebubble]

Will, you're nearly there with your drawing....I've done one on the PC so you can see it a bit better.

Basically, there is nothing wrong with the current cutoff you have, its simply an asthetics thing. In fact its probably safer as it lights the pavement side of the road more.

As you already have a kickup all you need to do is add a straight price of metal to bypass the cutoff angle but retain a small section of it (I think the diagram show this well enough).

With regard to how to do this as per Tareks post, it all depends on how your particular projector is made and fixed together. I have one set in the garage at home which is two halves of the projector (front lens section and rear dome reflector) literally held by 4 screws. Once the two halves are seperated a piece of metal comes out....it's that simple. Here is a photo of the one I have lying around with some notes on it.

Once you have pulled your headlights apart and then removed the projector you can see how it's made...it may be easier to screw a modded plate to the front or make a complete new one if its as easy as the photo above.

Finally, with regard to MOT, the lens will need the cutoff and will fail otherwise. There are also certain criteria with regard to the distance between the two cutoff lines (both left and right headlight with 3-4 feet in between) but there are loads of guides explaining this on the web however here is a good one. http://www.edgedp.com/retro/STEVO210RETROFIT.pdf

Anymore questions?!?!?!

 

[TarekElsakka]

Wow, that's so awesome of you, that surely explains everything. I am going to get back my head light units back today from my other house and will hopefully be working on this soon. I'll just need to re-align the lenses because the left one is completely screwed up and will have a look at the cutoff plate and try to fix it.

I'd fix the cut-off plate on my aftermarket head lights but I am afraid I'll never be able to reseal them like the factory and will end up getting condensation and such inside.

 

[robthebubble]

You can easily reseal them with the butyl rubber...its just like silicone and in the same format, the only difference is that it doesnt dry 100% on the inside so allown movement from heat/cold and stop water entering the front when it rains. Also, if you look at your OEM headlights there is a small clear cover on the bottom...this is actually covering a hole to the inside of the headlight to allow moisture to escape so don't believe what everyone says as the lights are not 100% sealed anyway!

 

[TarekElsakka]

Aha.. well I guess I could look into that. Do you just apply butyl rubber all around the gap, close the cover on the head light, and then let it dry or do you have to heat it in the oven or something?

 

[robthebubble]

Yes, when you split the light open there will be a groove all around where the existing sealant is located. Just apply a bead of it in the groove and then clamp together again. I don't think you need to heat it up but people do as it makes is softer and fills the gaps better, also, no need to clamp it together as people just squeeze the two halves of the light by hand or apply some tape until it is dry. Personally, I will use the heat gun on the butyl for a couple of minutes then clamp the two halves together. Remember, you don't see the sealant once the lights are on the car and bonnet closed!

 

[Willz17]

Yes, when you split the light open there will be a groove all around where the existing sealant is located. Just apply a bead of it in the groove and then clamp together again. I don't think you need to heat it up but people do as it makes is softer and fills the gaps better, also, no need to clamp it together as people just squeeze the two halves of the light by hand or apply some tape until it is dry. Personally, I will use the heat gun on the butyl for a couple of minutes then clamp the two halves together. Remember, you don't see the sealant once the lights are on the car and bonnet closed!

Rob,

You have made my night!
I think i might actually buy some projectors and do the retrofit.
Atleast if i buy the projectors i wont have to worry about making the plates^^
Unless i can get a template from somewhere.

1. I got old headlights to play with
2. Projector kit would be around £100?
3. Cut a hole and mount it straight.
4. Job done?^^

Personally if i was to do it, i would put light on floor and mark position, then power the light up mark where standard light shines on wall.

Then fit projector inside oem headlight and try match the light pattern using the same position from my previous markings on floor.

Think this would work very well^^
Thanks again Rob

 

[TarekElsakka]

Practically yes, Will, that's all you have to do. However, it is technically not as easy as it sounds. Drilling a hole that would be perfect for the lens will not prove easy, and you'll also have to overcome the fact that the back of the lens will be sticking out of the headlight's rear, which means you'll not be able to properly fit the back plastic cover and will have to create something to close the head light with.

Also it would be better if you would point the head lights at a clear wall in front of you (rather than a floor), mark the alignment, and then try to match it with the lenses. Do it from a distance as it's different when you're doing it from a close distance.

When you're done with all of that, just clean the headlight on the inside, clean the cover really well, re-seal them back together and let them dry, and then install them to your car and do your alignment magic. Afterwards you're good to go. I'd buy the FX-R lenses because they are very good quality, look good, and have a great alignment if done right. I believe those are the ones Rob purchased as well.

Good luck, Will, and don't be lazy, just get on with them already!!

 

[robthebubble]

Gents....some comments in red below!

Rob,

You have made my night!
I think i might actually buy some projectors and do the retrofit.
Atleast if i buy the projectors i wont have to worry about making the plates^^
Unless i can get a template from somewhere. You cuold just use the existing plates as the template, just change the shape of the cutoff...a simple trial and error would work as you dont need them back in the headlight to see how the cutoff looks

1. I got old headlights to play with Don't I know it...was trying to get them off you on the cheap!
2. Projector kit would be around £100? Yes...you already have the HID ballasts from what I recall so just projectors, shrouds, d2s bulbs and harness, and usual sealant etc.
3. Cut a hole and mount it straight. yes...easier if you get the Morimoto D2S mini as the shroud will fit better
4. Job done?^^ YES!!!

Personally if i was to do it, i would put light on floor and mark position, then power the light up mark where standard light shines on wall. Due to the bottom fixing clip, I'd put it on a work bench ore something like that...why keep bending over and knacker your back!

Then fit projector inside oem headlight and try match the light pattern using the same position from my previous markings on floor. Yep but not necessary as you will probably be adjusting it on the car anyway prior to fully fitting it

Think this would work very well^^
Thanks again Rob

Practically yes, Will, that's all you have to do. However, it is technically not as easy as it sounds. Drilling a hole that would be perfect for the lens will not prove easy, and you'll also have to overcome the fact that the back of the lens will be sticking out of the headlight's rear, which means you'll not be able to properly fit the back plastic cover and will have to create something to close the head light with. I've had this issue and resolved it...cut hole in back of cover and add a black pot extension. Stick with epoxy and finish with sealant...get straight D2S harness as its a better fit inside the headlight...photos to follow as I did this last night!.

Also it would be better if you would point the head lights at a clear wall in front of you (rather than a floor), mark the alignment, and then try to match it with the lenses. Do it from a distance as it's different when you're doing it from a close distance. Will means put them on the floor and point to the wall...not point them at the floor!

When you're done with all of that, just clean the headlight on the inside, clean the cover really well, re-seal them back together and let them dry, and then install them to your car and do your alignment magic. Afterwards you're good to go. I'd buy the FX-R lenses because they are very good quality, look good, and have a great alignment if done right. I believe those are the ones Rob purchased as well. Use compressed air to clean the projector...no chemicals! Wash the shrouds and reflectors and perhaos use some alcohol wipes too to remove grease. I used the FX-R's however to make it easier you may want to use the Morimoto mini D2S ones. They have a 2.5 inch lens and are very good....more choice of shrouds as FX-R's are bigger than most! You can also use the existing reflector a bit better with the mini's.

Good luck, Will, and don't be lazy, just get on with them already!!

 

[simon128927]

Sorry for butting in on the conversation here but I see there are some bi-xenon lights going on eBay but there like £400 a side whilst looking at them I noticed that the manufacturer is Valeo which we deal with at work so I thought I would give them a ring and ask how much they were to us and see if I could get them cheaper. The outcome was that they told me that these lights are no longer made which is a bugger as I thought I could have got them on the cheap as reading this thread had got me interested in getting some but making your own sounds a bit mind blowing to me. If they have stopped making them and the cars that have the OEM ones fitted break or stop working how would they replace them..?

 

[TarekElsakka]

I am not sure, but if the existing cars come with Valeo gas-discharge headlights, then there's no way they discontinued them unless SEAT decided to partner with someone else for the headlights on their Mk3 and therefore Mk2 as well. I don't think so, though.

I have seen a pair on eBay for 1000 Euros with their OEM bulbs (which alone cost over 200) but they are still pretty expensive and I don't think they are worth that much. Retrofitting is difficult, but if it is done right, you'll NEVER look back.

Contact Valeo and ask about the headlights.

 

[simon128927]

I have noticed that there are a lot of parts on the seat made by Valeo I had contacted them and they said that they were no longer available so either like you said that Seat have partnered up with someone else I'm not sure. I can imagine that getting them retrofitted correctly they would look amazing it's just my knowledge in anything technical like that goes completely out the window. The ones on eBay are for sale in the UK. This is the link to the near side one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEADLIGHT...rts_SM&fits=Car+Make:Seat&hash=item5d36d85087

 

[TarekElsakka]

I can see that your car is a facelift (09 - 12), therefore the ones in the link you posted will fit fine (as per the compatibility page underneath). All you'll have to do is get a 10-pin to 12-pin adapter for the connector harness, because your halogen headlights use 10-pin while the Bi-Xenons use 12. Some people modify their existing cable, but for me I'd pay the extra money for a converter so I wouldn't have to worry about this.

They are like these:

http://vagpartsforsale.blogspot.com/2010/12/for-sale-golf-5-10-12-pin-adapters-for.html

You can do some research and find cheaper, slightly used ones or something, though.

However if you want them to be completely legal, you'll have to fit washers and auto-leveling (AFS) which are installed in the chassis of the car itself. I am not sure if the AFS system comes with the Bi-Xenon headlights, but I strongly doubt it.

 

[simon128927]

Thanks Tarek I had read somewhere that you need to fit washers and auto levelling I take it that will be a costly job to do as well. Do people fit the lights and use them without am I right in saying that the washers and levelling is only for when the lights get dirty or is it for anything else. I apologise if my questions are stupid.

 

[TarekElsakka]

The washers are simply for cleaning the headlight. When the low beams are on, they create an exterior condensation due to heir heat, and the washers clean that off so the glare wouldn't increase and so the the cut-off would stay intact.

The auto-levelers are for the positioning (high, low) of the low beam. If I am not mistaken, when you accelerate and start speeding a little, the auto-levelers raise your beam a bit so you can see better, while when you're stuck in traffic and moving slowly, they lower the beam. They also adjust when you're driving downhill or uphill, for instance, so your beam wouldn't bother others in front of you. I could be wrong, but I believe that's their job.

You don't have to do it all at once, you could just get the headlights as a start and then get the others later. They are only necessary when you have a MOT due, and according to some posts I read in SCN lately, the new MOT regulates that if you have HIDs you MUST have projector lenses, washers, and auto-levelers whereas in the past people would just fit headlights and get on with their lives.