1.5 tsi reliability

[cri1410sti]

Hi, found that Kangaroo is related to the exhaust camshaft advance/retard when the engine is cold/when preheating the catalitic converter.

It is because the ea211evo does not have a physical EGR, everything was made with the inlet/exhaust valve overlap in order to decrease NOx.

So don't ask for the usual power remap (with the lambda and timing advance, like all do), ask instead for the exhaust camshaft tweak at low RPM and low driver demand (for less overlap with the inlet).

SSP-253 info there, you can also check by yourself with a tester.

 

[cri1410sti]

Hi, found that Kangaroo is related to the exhaust camshaft advance/retard when the engine is cold/when preheating the catalitic converter.

It is because the ea211evo does not have a physical EGR, everything was made with the inlet/exhaust valve overlap in order to decrease NOx.

So don't ask for the usual power remap (with the lambda and timing advance, like all do), ask instead for the exhaust camshaft tweak at low RPM and low driver demand (for less overlap with the inlet).

SSP-253 info there, you can also check by yourself with a tester.

attached 1 file with the exhaust retard, sorry for the language

 

[SuperV8]

attached 1 file with the exhaust retard, sorry for the language

Interesting. This also helps explain why VAG can't magically 'fix' with a software update - as this would effect the emissions homologation which I'm sure they are keen to avoid pushing the boundaries again!

Some cars (Mazda MX5 for example) state in their handbooks - on a cold start, let the engine idle for 10-20 seconds to let the emissions & cold start optimisations settle down - I wonder if this would help the 1.5?

 

[cri1410sti]

Interesting. This also helps explain why VAG can't magically 'fix' with a software update - as this would effect the emissions homologation which I'm sure they are keen to avoid pushing the boundaries again!

Some cars (Mazda MX5 for example) state in their handbooks - on a cold start, let the engine idle for 10-20 seconds to let the emissions & cold start optimisations settle down - I wonder if this would help the 1.5?

yes, here(DADA/DPCA) you need to wait 60-70 seconds to heat the catalytic converters.
maybe a new ECU sw release will come soon and will somehow improve the drivability.
if not, a custom remap can fix this.

PS.
personally i also don't like the ACT, is not good for the engine, for sure i will remove it by software just after the warranty ends.

 

[Tester01]

yes, here(DADA/DPCA) you need to wait 60-70 seconds to heat the catalytic converters.
maybe a new ECU sw release will come soon and will somehow improve the drivability.
if not, a custom remap can fix this.

PS.
personally i also don't like the ACT, is not good for the engine, for sure i will remove it by software just after the warranty ends.

I wouldn’t bank of any more ecu updates.

Sure VAG has long forgotten about dada and dpca 1.5

 

[Tester01]

Still not got to the bottom of my issues with fuel, but went in for oil change as per schedule and fuel comsumption issues and jerkiness.

Nothing found on their end…Told clutch needs doing…Thankfully I’m not footing the bill.

Said see how fuel is after that but don’t predict there will be any real improvement…And to fill up with Shell over next few tanks.

Waiting for part to come in before it can be done.

Just don’t know why my town mpg is practically the same as me doing a 50 mile
Journey down the motorway.

It’s as though it’s less efficient on a long run than it is on a shorter one.

Its like the engine is working harder then it should be, even at steady speeds on motorway I rarely see 2 cylinder mode kick in for example.

Wouldnt surprise me if this was part of reason previous owner getting rid

 

[cri1410sti]

Still not got to the bottom of my issues with fuel, but went in for oil change as per schedule and fuel consumption issues and jerkiness.

Nothing found on their end…Told clutch needs doing…Thankfully I’m not footing the bill.

Said see how fuel is after that but don’t predict there will be any real improvement…And to fill up with Shell over next few tanks.

Waiting for part to come in before it can be done.

Just don’t know why my town mpg is practically the same as me doing a 50 mile
Journey down the motorway.

It’s as though it’s less efficient on a long run than it is on a shorter one.

Its like the engine is working harder then it should be, even at steady speeds on motorway I rarely see 2 cylinder mode kick in for example.

Wouldnt surprise me if this was part of reason previous owner getting rid

It is related to valve overlap (emulating EGR, for NOx decrease) and also on injection (to less fuel for a wall guided injection).

The kangaroo will NEVER be fix 100%, this is the wall guided disadvantage: at low RPM and low engine temperature not all the fuel mixture is reaching in the spark area to ignite properly.

A partial fix can be to small increase the fuel when the engine is cold, but not too much because the fuel can reach the cylinder wall and get to the oil.

Kangaroo problem is not related to fuel type.

DADA and DPCA can run with 91,95,98 fuel.

If the fuel is not good then the ECU receive the detonation info and will auto modify the spark advance

- you loose some power (but only on full throttle you will feel this).

That why you get ~175hp and ~300Nm on stage 1, because the tuner increase the spark advance and you are forced to use 98 gas.

 

[Tester01]

It is related to valve overlap (emulating EGR, for NOx decrease) and also on injection (to less fuel for a wall guided injection).

The kangaroo will NEVER be fix 100%, this is the wall guided disadvantage: at low RPM and low engine temperature not all the fuel mixture is reaching in the spark area to ignite properly.

A partial fix can be to small increase the fuel when the engine is cold, but not too much because the fuel can reach the cylinder wall and get to the oil.

Kangaroo problem is not related to fuel type.

DADA and DPCA can run with 91,95,98 fuel.

If the fuel is not good then the ECU receive the detonation info and will auto modify the spark advance

- you loose some power (but only on full throttle you will feel this).

That why you get ~175hp and ~300Nm on stage 1, because the tuner increase the spark advance and you are forced to use 98 gas.

Thanks but wasn’t kangaroo jerk I went in for.

My DSG in general is jerky.

Thanks for that keep it in mind if I ever get a stage 1

 

[Glosphil]

yes, here(DADA/DPCA) you need to wait 60-70 seconds to heat the catalytic converters.
maybe a new ECU sw release will come soon and will somehow improve the drivability.
if not, a custom remap can fix this.

PS.
personally i also don't like the ACT, is not good for the engine, for sure i will remove it by software just after the warranty ends.

Why do you think ACT not good for the engine?

 

[Glosphil]

Still not got to the bottom of my issues with fuel, but went in for oil change as per schedule and fuel comsumption issues and jerkiness.

Nothing found on their end…Told clutch needs doing…Thankfully I’m not footing the bill.

Said see how fuel is after that but don’t predict there will be any real improvement…And to fill up with Shell over next few tanks.

Waiting for part to come in before it can be done.

Just don’t know why my town mpg is practically the same as me doing a 50 mile
Journey down the motorway.

It’s as though it’s less efficient on a long run than it is on a shorter one.

Its like the engine is working harder then it should be, even at steady speeds on motorway I rarely see 2 cylinder mode kick in for example.

Wouldnt surprise me if this was part of reason previous owner getting rid

At a steady 70/75 on flat or downhill motorways the ACT regularly operates on my 1.4TSi.

 

[cri1410sti]

Why do you think ACT not good for the engine?

because of vibrations that will slowly kill the double-mass flywheel
i don't like the switch between the normal-ACT-normal -- is not smooth
also don't like the sound -is like a bike, especially on engine brake
those 2 cylinders are working at the knock limit in order to compensate the torque demand from the driver pedal
also the other 2 cylinders that are deactivated are cooled down, operating at oil temperature
the max economy is 0.4L/100km (as officially advertised), so ACT is just a bad joke (my personal opinion).

 

[Tester01]

At a steady 70/75 on flat or downhill motorways the ACT regularly operates on my 1.4TSi.

On motorway,
Only notice when I lift my foot off the gas and I’m slowing down or breaking.

Even when I’m being gentle on the throttle to just maintain 70mph, rarely see eco flash up.

Cruise control around 70 same no eco all cylinders firing

 

['& Son' managed]

The transition between ACT coming in and out again is seamless on my Golf 1.5 DADA - and to
be clear it also operated like this before the remap. It seems to work well and predictably, so I've
never had cause to have an issue with it.

 

[cri1410sti]

because of vibrations that will slowly kill the double-mass flywheel
i don't like the switch between the normal-ACT-normal -- is not smooth
also don't like the sound -is like a bike, especially on engine brake
those 2 cylinders are working at the knock limit in order to compensate the torque demand from the driver pedal
also the other 2 cylinders that are deactivated are cooled down, operating at oil temperature
the max economy is 0.4L/100km (as officially advertised), so ACT is just a bad joke (my personal opinion).

I think i found how to force a delay in ACT activation

 

[cri1410sti]

kangaroo fix

 

[cri1410sti]

checking from time to time , waiting for a miracle form VW side (new firmware update) ...


https://vag-flashinfo.de/site/index?partno=05E906018CK