boost drop then re boost.?

[Pyro]

pert number on your old??

 

[G1NG3R]

Erm.?

 

[h7 cya]

Sorry to hear your having trouble with your map buddy. SCC think they tinker with fords dont they? agree with the above sounds electronice n75 or the likes. have you fettled with your actuator at all?

 

[Pyro]

Take the N75 off. Read part number. At the end us a letter. F, J or H yours will most likely be a J Lee

Bloody gingers

Xx

 

[G1NG3R]

Na mate not really looked at anything apart from the 249 I put it back on now sounds gay bug it didn't fix my problem so that can come back off.!

 

[JamJay]

Standard N75 on 1.8T started life as 058 906 283C, superceded to 058 906 283F, superceded to 06A 906 283E. You will most likely have one of the first two. 'J' valves were from the Audi S2, 'H' valves from the Audi S4, both work but both need to be mapped to make the car happy with them, if it was mapped with an 'F' valve then you really need to buy a new one of those.

I fitted a 'J', car worked but wasn't 100% & didn't feel as fast however the turbo sound and DV blow off were very loud, not sure why that was. Sounded cool but car was about 90% of the performance that it was with an 'F'.

 

[G1NG3R]

Why do I need to change an 'F' what would I change it to if it is.?

 

[JamJay]

The 'F' valve is standard for ALL 1.8T's. It's called the 'F' valve as the most common one fitted at the factory was 058 906 283F, the other two numbers are the old and new part numbers for the same part, it used to be known as the 'C' valve. Please go out and remove your old one and give us the part number, otherwise it's speculation. I can't really explain it any better than I have above.

 

[G1NG3R]

Will let you know when I get back from work.?

 

[Mo Arif]

I've replace my 'F' with a 'J' and can't tell the difference.

 

[JamJay]

I got a big spike with the 'J' and then tailed off quick.

 

[Pyro]

I got a big spike with the 'J' and then tailed off quick.

Terrys lcrs didnt like the J but loves the H didn't realise they needed mapping tho think I'm running a J but not sure

 

[JamJay]

Doesn't necessarily need mapping but your ECU is expecting boost to be controlled in a certain way with the valve intended for it. I've no experience of an N75H.

 

[Pyro]

Cool cool Im gunna check mine tonight see what it is and maybe see if I can try some others

 

[JamJay]

It's an expensive game, the J & H cost about £70 each. I just had an opportunity to try one from a friends car.

 

[Pyro]

I'll try terrys H and I know a place to get them cheep to

 

[JamJay]

Let us know what happens . TBH I'd not want to pay for than £10 for one as it might not agree with the car at all.

 

[Pyro]

I dout I'll buy on just swap about with mates see what Happens I'll try set my phone up to film the gauge to and post results up

 

[newtimecupra]

see i have exactly the same problem as ginger and whats bugging me is this was fine b4 the remap now its crap so how would replacing the n75 for the exact same part help? surely its a boost controller more boost = n75 to restrict so surely an upgraded one would help more?

most prob me being thick and not reading properly

 

[JamJay]

see i have exactly the same problem as ginger and whats bugging me is this was fine b4 the remap now its crap so how would replacing the n75 for the exact same part help? surely its a boost controller more boost = n75 to restrict so surely an upgraded one would help more?

most prob me being thick and not reading properly

What are you on about , the N75 is the same as every other engine part, it can break and they are known for it. Think about it, they pulse hundreds of times a minute inside, regulating your boost, if you have an 8yr old one on there it's not daft to expect it to fail. Replacing it for the same part means that you have a brand new one that actually works like the old one used to