boost drop then re boost.?

[LEE69]

What was your blow test? did it leak through every hole you blew through?

 

[newtimecupra]

What are you on about , the N75 is the same as every other engine part, it can break and they are known for it. Think about it, they pulse hundreds of times a minute inside, regulating your boost, if you have an 8yr old one on there it's not daft to expect it to fail. Replacing it for the same part means that you have a brand new one that actually works like the old one used to

told you it could be me being stupid haha thanks anyways i was just thinking if it was ok before the map then why mess up after

 

[JamJay]

What was your blow test? did it leak through every hole you blew through?

Mine was completely blocked at the TIP nipple, no idea why but it explains only every being able to hold 5-6psi before leaking it all out. New N75, no problems .

told you it could be me being stupid haha thanks anyways i was just thinking if it was ok before the map then why mess up after

No worries, things just break, part of the fun of owning a 1.8T.

 

[LEE69]

Did you try and clear it?
Or electronically blocked?

 

[JamJay]

Electronically blocked, the valve had just given up. That's 3 sensors this year, they must have a 7yr expiry date .

 

[G1NG3R]

Ok but if me a newtimecupra got mapped from the same place and there both the same problem is that just bad luck or the map.?

 

[JamJay]

Either. If in doubt take the car back, it's up to the mapper to sort you both out I'm afraid in that case. I've never heard of the place you used.

 

[G1NG3R]

Will give the n75 ago see what happens.?

 

[G1NG3R]

Still goes like stink now just drops and boosts up again.?

 

[JamJay]

Well it didn't do it before the map so you can rule in either the map or an N75 I would say. Personally I'd call up the mapper and say that this has happened as a result of the remap, they may find out it's your N75 in which case then you already knew you had to replace it but could equally be map related which only they can rectify for you.

 

[G1NG3R]

This is true well newtimecupra has him coming next week so I'll wait.?

 

[G1NG3R]

Just had a look at my n75 and it's the part number ending in an 'F'.? Was also a little loose but tightened it up and it's still the same.! That sucks.! Is there a test on the n75 I can do to see if it's fubered.??

 

[LEE69]

found this on google

For future reference... if you want to test the N75 valve, the best way to do it is to remove it and apply 12vdc into it. You should hear the valve CLICK, while redirecting air from one port to the other... hook up a hose on one end and blow some air through it while testing. This will tell you exactly if it's working or not. Checking resistance merely tells you if the solenoid/coil is intact, but will not tell you if it's doing its job redirecting pressure/vacuum

 

[G1NG3R]

Thanks lee I may give it ago although it's only 40 notes for a new genuine on on egay.! Gonna wait till lloyd has seen the mapper next week and go from there I think. but you have all been really helpful thanks for your help I will let you know how I get on. hope it's something simple. I love my car.!

 

[G1NG3R]

Well I just put the 249 back on properly and adjusted the split r a bit and I seems alot better not perfect but better boots holding a bit more and silly fast.? Odd very odd.!

 

[dfawbert]

Silly fast points to over boosting to me have you tried 75valve yet mate, did you manage to have a look at the rev counter under load?

 

[Pyro]

Think he just means silly fast as in he's not had the mapp long

 

[dfawbert]

lol

 

[Steely]

N75 dead 100% i had this a year back, its pulsing,

replaced the n75 peaks 19 and holds 15-16,

i'll dig out my old thread, 35 quid get it replaced,


watch that, seem familiar?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aWcwW3Lr50

 

[G1NG3R]

yup that looks the same.! did you get any faults codes.?