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ok *UPDATE*

i ordered the part direct from seat this time
its appeared this morning and it too is the same as the one that came from gsf-in that its green coloured and bigger than the one thats come off. This one when fitted didnt fit...

Cross checked part number with ted j's and it matches the one further above from awesome gti-;
1CO 945 511 A RDW

gaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaadzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Yahooo what do I win :D
Nah give it a few months and there could be another supersession :(
Sarah
 
My old knackered VW/Audi switch has the Part No. 1J0 945 511B and what appears to be a date stamp of 25.10.00 so it must be well out of date.

The replacement from GSF was identical in form, black and just a straight swap, never had to calibrate it mind and can't see how you would have, is this a new feature of the newer switches?
 
sounds like it "should" fit
have to see what happens, ill post up more when its on

what do you mean about it being calibrated and tested with different brake applications???

Soz about the repeated question, started the reply a while ago then got distracted.:doh:
 
never had to calibrate it mind and can't see how you would have, is this a new feature of the newer switches?

I'm not 100% sure like I say. When my first one went I think the breakdown guy initially took the switch apart to clean the contacts. I thought inside there is a spring and you can push the pin and twist to presumably create more or less travel or tension so it either comes on sooner or later according to your preference. He mentioned the switch would need replacing in due course and that the new one would need calibrating - I assume this is what he meant?
 
f00k now im confused
this shouldnt be so daft, it should be a simple quick swop like the clutch one was

cheers for the info/help ill see what happens

sarah you win nowt....................!
 
It may be a quick swap with no adjustments required - but if it's still not coming on as you would wish, maybe that's where the adjustment comes in?
 
f00k now im confused
this shouldnt be so daft, it should be a simple quick swop like the clutch one was

cheers for the info/help ill see what happens

Yer me too, keep us posted as it looks like I've still got an old style one and may look to replace it.
 
I'm not 100% sure like I say. When my first one went I think the breakdown guy initially took the switch apart to clean the contacts. I thought inside there is a spring and you can push the pin and twist to presumably create more or less travel or tension so it either comes on sooner or later according to your preference. He mentioned the switch would need replacing in due course and that the new one would need calibrating - I assume this is what he meant?

Just thought I'd post this link I found after RikH's follow up thread on this subject:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1158315

After reading it I had a play with my old shagged brake switch and you can pull the plunger right out to about 1" long, then I guess the plunger settles into the right position when the switch is installed.
 
Yer, saw Beezasport's post last night, was just hopefully shedding some light on the "calibration" query on this thread.

Sounds like everythin is sorted with yours. :thumbup:
 
yeh mate, well there is no calibration
the part you will receive now is an A switch, original one was B,C,D type which are harder to re-fit

we disconnected and removed original switch
fitted new switch
then removed lower dash screws and pulled it down around an inch
connected the harness back up
slowly pressed pedal
then did a few test presses to see if it was coming on and off
then many tests with ignition on/off after that monitoring pedal position when they come on
 
yeh mate, well there is no calibration
the part you will receive now is an A switch, original one was B,C,D type which are harder to re-fit

Cheers, good to know they've seen the light and realised what a poor design the B,C,D type switches are "If it ain't broke..."