Brembo (Aston Martin) brake pad change

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
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Jul 7, 2015
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A relatively straight forward one today. But should anyone be stuck doing this I thought I'd throw up some pics and instructions. Firstly if your unsure how to jack up and support the front of the vehicle check this guide here:
https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/jacking-the-front-oil-filter-change-guide.446948/

So this is my starting point. One side is jacked up, I used an axle stand even though I'm not technically under the vehicle, the opposite front and rear wheels are chocked. I've removed the road wheel (19" is heavy so I've used my wheel removal tool to make sure I didn't hit my shiny calipers as the wheel dropped). I've left the jack "touching" the jacking point but not supporting it - as a failsafe.
upload_2020-4-10_15-44-39.png


Take a hammer and a 5mm punch and knock one of the pins out. Once it's part way, the spring clip is fairly easy to push in by hand and will relieve the pressure on the pins. So you can slide the rest of the way by hand. Also... make sure to hold on to the spring clip as you knock the pin out anyway otherwise it will spring and hit you in the eye (ask me how I know!?)
upload_2020-4-10_15-46-49.png


Once one pin is out, if the spring hasn't already hit you in the face, it'll fall out when you let it go. As there was no pressure on the other pin, I just slid that out.
upload_2020-4-10_15-49-12.png


I like hammering flat on. But at this point, I turned the caliper round to face me and cracked the top off the master cylinder (to make it easier to push the pistons back)... also a rag in it in case the fill level goes too high when I push the pistons back in.
upload_2020-4-10_15-50-36.png


Next I got a screwdriver in and pushed one of the brake pads all the way back. Be sure to work top, bottom and center and try and keep it even as brembos have two pistons (one bigger than the other I think).
upload_2020-4-10_15-51-53.png


Another "quirk" of brembos is that pushing the pad in one side pushes it out the other side. So I used the new pad as a spacer to make sure it didn't close too far I couldn't get the new pad in afterwards.
upload_2020-4-10_15-53-1.png


With both sets of pistons back, time for a cleanup with a wire brush, some water, cloths, etc.
upload_2020-4-10_15-53-41.png


Next to apply some grease to the new pads. I prefer Ceratec to copper grease. The Seat service manual also recommends Ceratec. I applied it to the back of the pad (light red) and down the two contact edges (bright red).
upload_2020-4-10_15-56-16.png


Then fit the new pads in. The top pin slid right in.
upload_2020-4-10_15-57-33.png


The bottom pin will slide in by hand if you hold the spring clip in while you do it.
upload_2020-4-10_15-58-11.png
 
Last edited:

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
Staff member
Moderator
Jul 7, 2015
5,247
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With the pins in place, I used a 7mm punch and as the space under the wheel arch is limited, the side of the hammer as opposed to the front. You'll know when it's all the way back in as the noise will change as you hit it... and the cone pins will stick all the way through.
upload_2020-4-10_16-0-14.png


With everything refitted. Repeat for the other side.

Don't forget:

  1. Torque the wheels up (in my case 120nm)
  2. Replace the master cylinder cap and clean up any spills
  3. PUMP THE BRAKES - the first couple of times you hit the brake pedal, it'll just drop to the floor and do nothing. Keep pushing it till it comes back up and is solid!!

Before and after pads (Brembos style pads from factory are 10mm material with a 5mm backing). I think the recommended minimum material is 2mm.
upload_2020-4-10_16-4-30.png
 

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martin j.

Active Member
Feb 11, 2007
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Fife
I have seen recommendations that you loosen bleed nipples on the callipers to prevent pushing brake fluid backwards through the abs block, some techs do this others don’t.
Nice write up and pics btw.
 

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
Staff member
Moderator
Jul 7, 2015
5,247
2,667
I have seen recommendations that you loosen bleed nipples on the callipers to prevent pushing brake fluid backwards through the abs block, some techs do this others don’t.
Nice write up and pics btw.
Cheers. Yeah, I've seen a mixture of both. I tend to work the pistons back in slowly. Most techs I've worked with just grab a massive screwdriver and force them back in one. But that's why I try and do stuff myself, cause then at least I know I was careful.
 
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