Buying a used Leon Cupra

[daniel_owen_uk]

Sorry if this sort of thread gets posted all the time I would imagine it would (although suprisingly a search didn't return too many results).

I am currently looking to replace my shed of an orion (just going round the clock on a J plate).

I have found what I think is a great deal, 51 plate, 23000 miles, £6500 FSeatSH. It doesn't have leather unfortunately and as it's 51 no facelift bumpers. Unmodified. Err what else?

What should I be looking out for with the Seat?

If anyone should know it should be you lot

 

[paul26982]

if you could strech you budged abit further i would and get the face lift one

 

[daniel_owen_uk]

I could stretch the budget, probably to 8, maybe 8.5k but honestly I don't feel that bumpers and skirts are that important.

With similar sort of mileage I feel a facelifted 52/03 plate model is gonna cost and extra £1500-2000 and if all I get is bumpers skirts and white clocks, I would rather have the 2k.

 

[paul26982]

if you bothered about holding the extra money, i like the look better tbh, loove the bumpers, wheels are much better, interior, just the little things makes it abit more nicer inside, silver trims, white clocks with red backlights, just my opion tho, your money, your choice

 

[hamps_w]

Also, re-sale on a facelift would be alot easier, they are a much better looking car. But you wont get one with that kind of mileage unless you spend about 8.5k.

 

[daniel_owen_uk]

Like I say that 2k imo is better spent elsewhere, whilst I do prefer the look of the facelift, I just don't think in my situation it's worth the extra mulah. Resale value I can understand is more with the facelift (but then if I pay 2k more I very much doubt I would get that 2k back when I come to sell it).

Anyway back to my original topic, what would you guys suggest I specifically look for when buying a leon cupra, be it facelift of not.

 

[hamps_w]

well, as long as it has full service history and HPI clear etc, i would just ask about the standard things that tend to go. Coil packs, Water pump etc etc. Ask if the Cambelt has been changed, as it should of by now the standard stuff really. I have had 1 cupra and now have a cupra R, but in terms of ownership time im only on about 3 months in total. So im no pro.

 

[daniel_owen_uk]

Cambelt? At 23000 miles? Really? From what I read it was check at 60,000 and change regardless at 100,000 or have I read that wrong?

 

[hamps_w]

or every 4 years, regardless of mileage.

 

[hamps_w]

and it has to be changed at 60k not checked. Every 60k or 4 years, whatever comes first.

Mine was changed on my other Cupra at 14k miles!!....However the water pump had gone and it was 3 years old so would of needed doing the year later anyway.

 

[daniel_owen_uk]

Ahhh you see, now that's the sort of thing I was specifically looking for.

Top advice, any more?

 

[Tallpaul]

or every 4 years, regardless of mileage.

I'm not sure where this 4 year change has come from. Fair enough if VAG are genuinly operating that schedule these days; i'd be suprised if they were but it's possible. Quickest way to be sure is call a SEAT garage and then get a second opinion from an independant VAG specialist; SEAT service managers have a habit of talking b*llocks.

I'd change the cambelt every 60k or 5 years, whichever comes first.

I can only assume this 4 year business is born out of failures of the water pump rather than the cambelt. The original plastic VAG waterpump is crap and falls apart, even so 4 years seems a quick failure.

On a 51 plate with low miles i'd leave the belt change until next year, then i'd get it done along with the tensioners and a new metal (brass) waterpump. From then on i'd follow a 5 year/60k schedule on it.

If you want to get it done, budget £350 from an independant specialist or £500 from the dealer.

 

[tris]

wet patch in passenger foot well = pollon filter

 

[hamps_w]

Either way, use it to knock money off of the price of the vehicle you are buying, or if its a main dealer then get them to do it as part of the deal. Thats way you wont have to pay for a while longer.

It could be 5 years, but im sure i was told 4. I may be getting confused with our other car. A VW Bora PD. But i think thats on a 5 year schedule.

I just find with Cambelts its better to be safe than sorry.

 

[hamps_w]

wet patch in passenger foot well = scaring the crap out of passengers=cars been ragged.

sorry, couldnt resist.

 

[daniel_owen_uk]

Spoke to two service depts;

First said 60k no age

Second said 60k or 5 years

Which sucks a little as it means cambelt is due in feb, although can hopefully use this to wanggle couple of hundred, and would allow me to replace the waterpump with the metal prop variety.

 

[tris]

sorry, couldnt resist.

 

[BEOWULF]

Like I say that 2k imo is better spent elsewhere, whilst I do prefer the look of the facelift, I just don't think in my situation it's worth the extra mulah. Resale value I can understand is more with the facelift (but then if I pay 2k more I very much doubt I would get that 2k back when I come to sell it).

Anyway back to my original topic, what would you guys suggest I specifically look for when buying a leon cupra, be it facelift of not.

i know where u are coming from that on this m8 i have a pre-facelift and i love it save the £2000k and spend £450 having a remap
it like a wolf in sheep's clothing what i would look out for m8 check clutch paddle is not loose make sure there are no leaks. apart form that m8 there good cars and if u are buying from a dealer u should get at least 3 months warranty anyway m8

 

[KixKid]

You may want to have a read of this:
http://www.seatcupra.net/knowledge_base/knowledge_base/seat_leon_faq.html

Standard issues would appear to be (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong):
1.) MAF sensor. You can check if its on its way out by getting the car up to 3rd/4th gear and up to 4k rpm. Rev it up to 5krpm (with your foot down as doing it gently doesn't seem to show it), and if it stutters its quite likely the MAF isn't working properly. This could also be the wastegate though.
£50-60 to replace the sensor - 2 minutes to do the job yourself.

2) Door seals. Water can easily leak into just about any of the footwells - but its usually the driver's to go first. Could ask if its doing it, or take a 2 litre bottle and pour water on the door to check. Could be the seals, the holes at the bottom of the door bunged up with wax and dirt, or the pollen filter if on the passenger side (as has been mentioned).

3) Window regulators. Check all the windows to see if they operate properly. If one makes a grinding noise, or doesn't return to the closed position, the rplastic regulator clips are broken, or the cable has snapped. £50 for parts, 1-3 hours to repair it yourself (there is a guide here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1015107 ).

There used to be coil pack issues, not sure how relevant this is now. You'll obviously be able to tell how decent the gear change is, but 1st to 2nd can be notchy until warm. Not sure if there's a conclusion to solve this problem (any offers?). Some have had suspension issues too. Plastic water pumps can be rubbish too as mentioned. Oh, and models with blue paint stone-chip easily.

You should probably read this too...:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33108

With it only having 23k miles on it I'd expect it not to have many issues...but you never know.

Incidentally, if you're thinking of stretching to £8-8.5k, why not stretch to the R model? It'll obviously be higher mileage for that price, but wouldn't it be worth it? The 1.8T is pretty bullet proof so I don't think high mileage is that big a deal (perhaps a matter of opinion though I suppose). Just a thought. I'm happy with my 20vT...

 

[daniel_owen_uk]

R model would tie me down and bum rape me on insurance (only 25 and not deal of NCB).

I had seen the FAQ and the horrifying what went wrong thread, but good advice, tis much appreciated.