DIY Timing (cam) Belt Change Cupra TDI

[James_R]

Dont use any marks on the block, on the timing end for comparrison, use (if it has one) the mark on the flywheel and the inspection hole. 1 or 2 degrees wont make any difference as the timing can move back on these engine slightly on the tensioner once ran and if the timing is out it'll throw up a cam sensor fault. As for water pump failure - this is still common throughout the VW range and does not just affect 1.8t engines, the job to replace them is as you have already done plus removing the 3 bolts that hold the pump in place and swapping with new.

 

[basssound]

Maybe you should have done the job properly and paid £18 for the timing pins, Now that would have been quicker

Also why didn't you change the water pump? VAG always recommend changing it, i personally change it to a metal impellor type.

Are you a complete tool or something, since when has this job going wrong got anything to do with me? I gave him advice on how I did it my way lol

He's bought and used the locking pins ect.... you might want to try reading a thread and not skim reading hahahah

As for the water pump, seat didn't recommend me to change it, they said I could if I wanted to but it wasn't essential.

I hope you getit sorted, that is if thereis anything worng with it, after my cam belt change my car seemed to feel alot better, pulled alot better as the crank was slightly out

 

[cheshire cat]

Hmmm I'm starting to think I've maybe lost a BHP or 2. It still pulls fine and runs fine but I'm sure I can detect a tiny edge it used to have that it now doesn't.

To give me peace of mind I'll need to check the timing. Can anyone suggest an easier way than:

Get the aux belt off
Take the NS wheel off
Take the undertray and wheel arch cover off
Take the crank pulley and bottom belt cover off
Lock the crank pulley
Take the top belt cover off
Check timing mark on the cam sprocket
?

I would love to be able to guarantee it's at TDC without locking the crank. Any way? VAG-COM?

Otherwise I'll have to do as above. I'm sure the cam sprocket timing mark was maybe a degree or 2 retarded but I convinced myself it had to be OK at the time as I had the cam locking tool in.

yes vag-com will do it as said before even using the correct locking tools mine was not perfect but in spec, vag-com (forget which box) it should read "0" +/- "6" ( it was Zero factory set) also the cam pin wasn't that easy to extract after however seems happy enough

 

[dirk1978]

I've followed this guide http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=215202 and logging block 4, field 4 at hot idle shows between 2.2-2.8-3.3.

Reading between the lines, that should be degrees BTDC. And on petrols this would push the power up the rev range a bit - a bit better BHP at the expense of a bit of low-end torque. As this seems to be how the Cupra is tuned would you expect a few degrees of advance on the cam timing? Or should it just really be set at 0, as cam timing is cam timing and shouldn't really be messed with?

 

[cheshire cat]

I've followed this guide http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=215202 and logging block 4, field 4 at hot idle shows between 2.2-2.8-3.3.

Reading between the lines, that should be degrees BTDC. And on petrols this would push the power up the rev range a bit - a bit better BHP at the expense of a bit of low-end torque. As this seems to be how the Cupra is tuned would you expect a few degrees of advance on the cam timing? Or should it just really be set at 0, as cam timing is cam timing and shouldn't really be messed with?

I wouldn't assume it's deg' however you are not at the extremes of "permissable spec'" to be honest I'm getting out of my depth I should need more convincing before redoing it, bearing in mind that altho' the cam(s) may be out (don't know which way or how mutch and German logic is sometimes counter intuitive) the injection is still "fired" independently you really need someone like Majesty78 /RUB87/or Theo who have put in zillions of hours I know majesty has been on here try a Pm

 

[dirk1978]

Got to between -0.7 and -1.1 this morning and it definitely feels better. I'll try and get it dead on 0.0 tonight. Obviously the cam timing should be at 0 and not messed with on PD's.

 

[DEAN0]

I'll get slated for this but the only way to line it back up is to lock off the crank in the TDC position
and then slacken the three cam bolts, spanner on the cetre bolt and turn the bolt so the cam turns slightly, the pin should go in.
Tighten the bolts and rebuild.

I am sure thats how the VW tech described the cam belt timing procedure to me. You use the pins to lock everything in place with loosened cam pulley to allow the belt to fit.

Then tighten up the pulleys when the belt is on and tensioned.

 

[Altech]

Dirk all your pictures have disapeared! I need to replace my timing belt next week before I get my car remapped. Does anyone have the correct torque setting that are needed when replacing the timing belt? Engine ASZ

 

[dirk1978]

Sorry, I'll replace all the pics later tonight.

I didn't use any torque settings... But I have confidence in my 'tightness' ability

 

[Jim H]

I posted a link to Briskoda, but unfortunately the main site is down at the moment. Here is a link to that guide on the back-up site: http://briskoda.development.scalr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=104046 I don't know if the part numbers are the same for a SEAT, but it is for the same engine, ASZ.

Sorry, I don't think it mentions any torque settings. A Haynes manual for the Ibiza (if there is one) or Fabia may help for these.

 

[Altech]

Sorry, I'll replace all the pics later tonight.

I didn't use any torque settings... But I have confidence in my 'tightness' ability

Cheers that'd be great

I read previously that you bought your timing tools from 'Fast-tools.' Was kit no. 3978 all you needed? Or was there anything else?

I posted a link to Briskoda, but unfortunately the main site is down at the moment. Here is a link to that guide on the back-up site: http://briskoda.development.scalr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=104046 I don't know if the part numbers are the same for a SEAT, but it is for the same engine, ASZ.

Sorry, I don't think it mentions any torque settings. A Haynes manual for the Ibiza (if there is one) or Fabia may help for these.

I found some torque settings for a PD100 Ibiza...I'm wondering if the same settings apply to my PD130

 

[dirk1978]

Cheers that'd be great

I read previously that you bought your timing tools from 'Fast-tools.' Was kit no. 3978 all you needed? Or was there anything else?



I found some torque settings for a PD100 Ibiza...I'm wondering if the same settings apply to my PD130

That was all I needed. In fact I didn't use the flat piece, couldn't work out what I was supposed to do with it. Apparently a tensioner lock or something.

Not sure about the torque settings. Which nuts/bolts in particular? Did another PD last weekend on a Touran. Amazingly similar as you would expect. So I know them a bit better now

Just restoring the pics now.

 

[dirk1978]

Pics put back now. I may not have every one that was originally on there.

Just to close my story off on this, when I did the 2nd PD last week I managed to get the cam lock all the way in, which made me realise that I hadn't got mine locked when I did it. And that's what made my cam timing off by a couple of degrees. It was easy enough to fix using VAG-COM and I got it to exactly 0.0 degrees which was nice and allowed my car to pull 185bhp / 280lb ft. standard. After the remap it's 201bhp / 305lb ft.

 

[Altech]

Thanks for putting the pics back.

Did you not need tool 3107? (Cam Belt Tensioner) http://www.fast-tools.co.uk/acatalog/Volkswagen.html

 

[dirk1978]

No, because both PD's I've done have had the 7mm allen key hole in the tensioner.

 

[Altech]

No, because both PD's I've done have had the 7mm allen key hole in the tensioner.

Ah I see, I did read somewhere that older engines need the tensioner tool and newer ones need allen keys. My car is a late 2002...do you know what I need?

 

[dirk1978]

I don't I'm afraid. Mine is a 54 BPX it had an allen key hole in the original one.

If you have transport to get to a motor factors when you do the job then buy one if you need one.