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mine comes on and nothing is blocked, but i think that is due to the plunger (think that's right) bit in the middle not working correctly it does, that should go up and down. clear it once a week and all is good, not ideal but cheap and easy.
right have a spare/replacement egr, thanks chris, and will tart hacking away this weekend.
When people remove the plunger bar, and fill in the hole at the base, are they also filling in hole at the top? or leaving this as is?
looked on here and nothing specific, looked on tdi forums and not mentioned.
ta
When people remove the plunger bar, and fill in the hole at the base, are they also filling in hole at the top? or leaving this as is?
looked on here and nothing specific, looked on tdi forums and not mentioned.
ta
The top bit of the plunger just file it till its flush that way you wont have to plug it or anything.
cool, so just need to fill in the hole at bottom, with big nut loctited in then.
Gavin, would it not have been easier to get yourself a race pipe then? rather than go through the hassle? want to keep mine looking stock and also retain ASV, should it be needed...
been reading guide on tdiclub, and doesn't seem so bad.
this what i've been following:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=75682
Gavin, would it not have been easier to get yourself a race pipe then? rather than go through the hassle? want to keep mine looking stock and also retain ASV, should it be needed...
been reading guide on tdiclub, and doesn't seem so bad.
this what i've been following:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=75682
understand the time thing gavin, had the 312mm upgrade in garage for a good 9months now and need them as taking up space in garage.
just to paint and fit, so why soooooooo long....
ok, this will sound really dumb.
i'm guessing the vac pipe doesn't need blocking off after doing the srp / wingnut method and can be plugged back on again as per normal.
just to paint and fit, so why soooooooo long....
ok, this will sound really dumb.
i'm guessing the vac pipe doesn't need blocking off after doing the srp / wingnut method and can be plugged back on again as per normal.
Sorry to drag up this thread but while fitting my egr delete I have encountered a rather big snag. While fitting the blanking plate to the exhaust manifold I have managed to snap off one of the bolts coming out of the exhaust manifold.
What are my options apart from a new exhaust manifold/turbo which would be pretty expensive. What about welding the blanking plate?
What are my options apart from a new exhaust manifold/turbo which would be pretty expensive. What about welding the blanking plate?
can you not carefully drill it out?
obviously have stuff hole with rag or taped paper across to stop dust getting in.
and no worries with drag up, reminds me i need to finish mine
to bloody lazy and work exams taking over
obviously have stuff hole with rag or taped paper across to stop dust getting in.
and no worries with drag up, reminds me i need to finish mine
to bloody lazy and work exams taking over
It'll get very hot... few hundred ºC at a guess, especially if the engine is working hard...I very much doubt metal epoxy weld will be up to the job.
Is there anything of the stud left sticking out, that you could turn with something ?
EG file some flats on and have a go with some molegrips (on as tight as your hands can squeeze!)
You can get some stud extractors that fit over protruding studs - was looking at some recently.
Otherwise, looks like drilling out, and removal with a reverse-thread-type stud extractor.
Or welding a plate on permanently.
I suspect room to do anything is going to be your main challenge....
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