Engine block corner gone - only two bolts left - options!

[Mewcenary]

Rev-linked engine bay WHINING, goes away on the throttle, comes back off the throttle

Hi,

I have a 2002 Seat Leon with 120k on the clock. Things generally fine until last night when I do a bit of reversing, then switch back to forward gears.

Since then there is a high-pitched WHINE which is linked to revs. It is present from ignition but goes away when the throttle is engaged (in gear). As soon as I come off the throttle it comes back.

No change in driving performance that I can spot... It's just the noise.

If I accelerate more quickly there is a CLUNK (seemingly from driver side engine bay/front wheel) before it goes away. Obviously, I've started driving more smoothly so that isn't happening now.

Local garage suspect cambelt tensioner but aren't free to work on it so it looks like an official stealers job. Before I take it in, what else could it be???

 

[Andrewcupra TDI]

alternator /fan belt maybe - just guessing

 

[Mewcenary]

Closer look shows it is belt-related.

Engine bolt has broken so the engine has shifted in position. This has forced the belt cover off. Also, the belt started eating through an adjacent bit of metal! Hence lots of noise and scouring on the belt.

Fix = new belt + put engine back in position and rectify bolt situation, according to stealers...

 

[Mewcenary]

Hi,

Seat Leon Cupra 2002 with 120k miles.

A failure of one bolt holding the engine block in place has caused a corner of the engine block to shear off (taking the bolt fixings etc with it).

This leaves me with two 'good' bolts (according to stealer).

What are my options?

1. Secure engine with just two bolts (!)

2. Replace engine block (stealer quote - £1500 !)

3. Something else ???

Advise please guys...

As an aside, the change in angle of the engine meant the belt cover came off and was rubbing against the belt. Visible scouring. Also replace?

Thanks,

Tris.

 

[DPJ]

If you can imagine the forces that caused part of the block to break away, you wouldn't want to be running on less than the full complement of fixings.

Replace block - although sourcing a second hand complete engine and fitting would probably work out cheaper.

 

[Mewcenary]

Worthwhile considering mileage/value of car though?

 

[DPJ]

Worthwhile considering mileage/value of car though?

Your alternative is?

 

[Mewcenary]

Do 'quick fix', then P/X for another car. The only reason I haven't switched to a diesel recently is not wanting the initial outlay, but now that my hand is being forced, things are different

I do about 20k a year easy so the Cupra is not the most efficient.

Still feel sad though.

 

[lc_allan]

Can anyone not fabricate a kind of plate to use your existing chassis mounting point but still support the block?. At least get it back up level to reduce the strain on the other bolts.
Even if that's temporary until P/X sold etc.. I have no idea about engine blocks or mounting points but I'm sure someone could bodge it

 

[Mewcenary]

Well, the guy is looking into that option for me over the weekend via some engineering contacts. No idea if it is viable. However, when you start doing that sort of thing you instantly remove your P/X option due to big wodges of metal being stuck on the engine

Oh, my £1500 quote was wrong. They have quoted that for the engine block ALONE. So add on labour and all the other gubbins on top of that. Just not worthwhile for current value of car in the slightest.

 

[Mewcenary]

Any thoughts on feasibility of welding / other form of block repair? Or just not possible?

Also, does it sound right that there are three mounting points for the engine in the first place?

 

[xr2turbo]

without a pic its diff but you could make a plate from the existing holes to take up the difference in angle but you need to take another fixing really

what not 'out it' spare repairs, i'd have a deal

i cant imagine 2 bolts leave it on the piss, i had an escort turbo with a zvh lump in knocking well over 200 nags, i didnt mod the mount i just cut the 3rd bit out (2 line up but the bottom area fouls the oil pump on a zetec big end) so it cleared the oil pump, it never had an issue (daft considering i actually fab zvh mod mounts and sell em )

 

[Mewcenary]

True but... I guess it was on only two bolts for some period of time before this latest incident happened!

 

[jaymd]

This strange as someone else has had the same thing happen.

There is a fix.

http://www.dieselgeek.com/servlet/Detail?no=468

 

[Mewcenary]

Thanks for the link. I'll speak to the dealer on Monday. They should be able to clarify whether it is just the mounting ear that has come off or something more substantial...

 

[m0rk]

Do you have a torch & a mirror?

 

[DPJ]

Yes, the Dieselgeek bracket looks a reaonable fix, I stand corrected. The LC charge pipe bracket does mount there.

 

[Mewcenary]

DPJ: LC charge pipe bracket?

m0rk: I do, but the car is at the stealers so I'm not in the position to look. I've sent them the details and will phone them Monday morning so they can confirm it is 'just' the ear which has broken so the fix is appropriate.

Found this in relation to the 'ear' fix:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=246428

The original post matches my situation EXACTLY, other than it being the fact I shifted from reverse to first as the final shock to the chassis which caused the failure. Right down to the whining as the belt starts cutting through the aluminium!

 

[DPJ]

DPJ: LC charge pipe bracket?

Charge pipe = Large metal pipe that runs from the turbo across the rear of the engine top, then vertically downwards by that corner of the engine (heading to intercooler)

I've bought from Dieselgeek before - nice people to deal with. May do you a cheaper deal on shipping than shown online.....

 

[Mewcenary]

The one bit I don't 'get' is that they only make the kit for the passenger side rear mount? Is the other side a different type of attachment so it won't break in the same fashion...?