I thought the vibration could be from the dog mount thingy, heard a few folk saying that happens after thats fitted. But it gets better
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- Thread starter x24sevenbikerx
- Start date
ah right , well as long as it gets better
haha , will keep an eye on it and see how it goes!so that a + and a - for the dogbone mount
lol
Thats what it sounds like mate, think a few folk have had the same thing. I dont really get the point of it tbh something about stopping the engine rocking around as much?
Sure will get better tho, how you finding the liquid gauge?
Sure will get better tho, how you finding the liquid gauge?
Thats what the engine and gearbox mounts are for to stop the moving , the dogbone is suppose to deliver power better and increase handling , can def feel it handle better dno about dilivering the power better .... since i was still spinning in 4th after testing the exhaust etc (then again it was slightly icyish)
love the gauge tbh , helped so much so far haha , and its nice knowing whats going on when i want to know it lol
Yeah dog bone mounts do calm down after a few weeks mate.
Mine shook the cabin bad at 1st but it was torqued in correctly, and has calmed down fine now
thats a good thing then haha , did you get it re-torqued? , did mine kinda by how much it was on before so its prob on a bit wrong ?? unless it just sorts its self out ? , least its the easier one to change/fix lol
The vibrations should settle down yes, as already said. I noticed I got quite bad vibes in the cabin around 1100rpm when I first had my DBM fitted but they're not as bad now (or I'm used to them). Was a bit of a pain when in slow-moving traffic but hardly notice it at any other time. A few hundred miles should sort that out.
As I understand it it'll be the side engine mounts that improve handling, the reason for this is that the engine's mass is fixed more steadily in the chassis so it's weight is neutralised when turning in or changing direction at speed. All the DBM does is as drka says, stops the engine rotating around the axis of the driveshaft in the opposite direction, which will reduce wheel hop when nailing it. Which is nice
213g/s sounds mapped to me, yep. Are you coming to the rolling road day at Wallace on the 18th? You'll find out for sure then. Either that or log the car with VAGCOM to check boost levels, or fit a boost gauge.
As I understand it it'll be the side engine mounts that improve handling, the reason for this is that the engine's mass is fixed more steadily in the chassis so it's weight is neutralised when turning in or changing direction at speed. All the DBM does is as drka says, stops the engine rotating around the axis of the driveshaft in the opposite direction, which will reduce wheel hop when nailing it. Which is nice
213g/s sounds mapped to me, yep. Are you coming to the rolling road day at Wallace on the 18th? You'll find out for sure then. Either that or log the car with VAGCOM to check boost levels, or fit a boost gauge.
The vibrations should settle down yes, as already said. I noticed I got quite bad vibes in the cabin around 1100rpm when I first had my DBM fitted but they're not as bad now (or I'm used to them). Was a bit of a pain when in slow-moving traffic but hardly notice it at any other time. A few hundred miles should sort that out.
As I understand it it'll be the side engine mounts that improve handling, the reason for this is that the engine's mass is fixed more steadily in the chassis so it's weight is neutralised when turning in or changing direction at speed. All the DBM does is as drka says, stops the engine rotating around the axis of the driveshaft in the opposite direction, which will reduce wheel hop when nailing it. Which is nice
213g/s sounds mapped to me, yep. Are you coming to the rolling road day at Wallace on the 18th? You'll find out for sure then. Either that or log the car with VAGCOM to check boost levels, or fit a boost gauge.
thanks for clearing that up
hahayup ill be at the RR day , liquid gauge calcs boost , im getting a peak of about 19psi ?
No problem, hope that's the right conclusion on the engine mounts but at the end of the day you've got an improvement, whatever the physics are.
19psi = 1.3bar so yeah, I'd say that's been mapped, although possibly slightly conservatively. Will see you at Wallace then
yeh indeed
ah right , well guess will see for sure at wallace's then
, and yeh see you there lol
Spec List To Date (07/02/12)
Engine/Transmission
Forge Cold Side DV Re-location Kit
Forge Alloy Boost Pipe
Forge 008 DV w/ Yellow Spring
80mm Badger 5 TIP
Heatshield
Jetex Cone Filter
THS Engine,Gearbox and Dogbone Mount
Cobra 3" System (Downpipe, Sports Cat, Cat Back)
Remap (Unknown Info)
Suspension
No Change
Interior
Cupra R Richbrook Tax Disc Holder
Cupra R Designed Mats
Exterior
6x4 Oval Tip(No Baffle)
6K H7R HIDS
Fabia Rear Wiper
Golf Mk4 Aerotwin Wiper Conversion
Wheels/Tyres
No Change
ICE/Security
Liquid Gauge
Engine/Transmission
Forge Cold Side DV Re-location Kit
Forge Alloy Boost Pipe
Forge 008 DV w/ Yellow Spring
80mm Badger 5 TIP
Heatshield
Jetex Cone Filter
THS Engine,Gearbox and Dogbone Mount
Cobra 3" System (Downpipe, Sports Cat, Cat Back)
Remap (Unknown Info)
Suspension
No Change
Interior
Cupra R Richbrook Tax Disc Holder
Cupra R Designed Mats
Exterior
6x4 Oval Tip(No Baffle)
6K H7R HIDS
Fabia Rear Wiper
Golf Mk4 Aerotwin Wiper Conversion
Wheels/Tyres
No Change
ICE/Security
Liquid Gauge
What El said, some good mods in there matey. Coming along very nicely with tasty Forge goodness in there too
What mappers are local to you?
cheerserm ... not sure tbh part from local places that offer REVO maps , but would rather get a custom one tweaked to whats on the car etc , mate of here who actually works at my work is talking to me about a guy called nick down south from where we are dno how far south but yohan off here is gunna get logs of my car and get a custom one made for me whens hes down getting his bora done and upload it to my car when hes back up
would like to go for stage 2 , but would need to get below the magic 300lbs/ft for torque as dont want to risk conrods going and dont have the time or funds to get rods done tbh :/
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TBH mate, alot of the 'over 300 lb/ft torque is rod killer territory' talk is to an extent a load of tosh.
I have run over 300+ lb/ft for over a year and have redlined my car many times (where safe) BUT always once warmed up correctly and the car is always cooled down. Haven't done my rods and not doing them anytime soon.
My map is smooth and doesn't spike (AmD stage 2). I know many people running over 300lb/ft including a friend with REVO 2 on his black LCR which he has had from nearly new back in 2003 and was over 300lb/ft in 2004.... NO rod issues still. I think alot of it is poor ownership, not warming the cars up correctly before opening them up and rubbish mapping.
REVO stage 2 is an awesome map as I can testify by my mates car. He has the SPS switch and adjusts the settings himself. You can also turn the map off via the controller if you want to go back to standard for selling etc. He has all stage 2 mods on his car. Custom from another tuner is fine aslong as they are reputable and the maps aren't spikey etc. Personally if I was close to REVO I wouldn't go for anything else, except in my case AmD sell their own maps and REVO. I got my AmD map as part of a full Milltek turbo back exhaust offer. The REVO 2 would have cost alot more and I would have wanted the SPS controller.
Whatever you do, don't rush your decision. The map is ultimately what will run the car and affect the way it drives everytime you turn the key. I love my AmD map, it's smooth and very torquey while still giving me a 'savage' feeling on boost. I may go REVO one day if I do want to adjust things purely for the SPS factor..
I have run over 300+ lb/ft for over a year and have redlined my car many times (where safe) BUT always once warmed up correctly and the car is always cooled down. Haven't done my rods and not doing them anytime soon.
My map is smooth and doesn't spike (AmD stage 2). I know many people running over 300lb/ft including a friend with REVO 2 on his black LCR which he has had from nearly new back in 2003 and was over 300lb/ft in 2004.... NO rod issues still. I think alot of it is poor ownership, not warming the cars up correctly before opening them up and rubbish mapping.
REVO stage 2 is an awesome map as I can testify by my mates car. He has the SPS switch and adjusts the settings himself. You can also turn the map off via the controller if you want to go back to standard for selling etc. He has all stage 2 mods on his car. Custom from another tuner is fine aslong as they are reputable and the maps aren't spikey etc. Personally if I was close to REVO I wouldn't go for anything else, except in my case AmD sell their own maps and REVO. I got my AmD map as part of a full Milltek turbo back exhaust offer. The REVO 2 would have cost alot more and I would have wanted the SPS controller.
Whatever you do, don't rush your decision. The map is ultimately what will run the car and affect the way it drives everytime you turn the key. I love my AmD map, it's smooth and very torquey while still giving me a 'savage' feeling on boost. I may go REVO one day if I do want to adjust things purely for the SPS factor..
hmmm guess ill need to have a think about this then , to start off i was aiming for Revo2 , however i thought with it being a generic map it would be just that wouldnt be getting the best out of it? however the SPS (after just looking it up does sound nice, not that i would know what to change
) the only thing i would be 'missing' for a Revo Stage 2 would be FMIC , however im sure it was only recommended, and that the 2 side intercoollers do ok ?
might need to think about this and see if getting this custom stage 1 is worth it atm if i could go for stage 2?
The idea of stage 2 is it's a map to allow more power up the range and it adapts to the mods on your car...
Revo 2 is ideal for your needs buddy. You can run it without FMIC. Remember FMIC's don't give you an increase in actual power, they give you the cooling to keep the power on tap on hard use/spirited drives. They can be added at a later date after stage 2 mapping for sure.
I wouldn't bother with stage 1 if I'm so close to stage 2. I went straight to stage 2 from stock mate map. Scary jump but an amazing 1st drive when you get the map.
Would highly recommend Revo to you for your needs and what your after. The Revo guys are helpful and there's alot of people on here that use SPS who can give you help in using it if you were to add the controller at a later date.
Like I said, if I didn't have my AmD map, the Revo 2 would be on my car no question.
Revo 2 is ideal for your needs buddy. You can run it without FMIC. Remember FMIC's don't give you an increase in actual power, they give you the cooling to keep the power on tap on hard use/spirited drives. They can be added at a later date after stage 2 mapping for sure.
I wouldn't bother with stage 1 if I'm so close to stage 2. I went straight to stage 2 from stock mate map. Scary jump but an amazing 1st drive when you get the map.
Would highly recommend Revo to you for your needs and what your after. The Revo guys are helpful and there's alot of people on here that use SPS who can give you help in using it if you were to add the controller at a later date.
Like I said, if I didn't have my AmD map, the Revo 2 would be on my car no question.
well right now i do have some sort of map on might even be revo , but only found this out last week after fitting liquid gauge and fixing MAF
, as 210 g/s , and 19psi boost im told is a map no doubt about it.yeh im guessing a FMIC would help tbh however i would want a forge one , due to not liking the TK or simliar (however i do see AMD are making one
) might drop revo a email and have a chat about it
Well said Tom. It does worry you though when your running at that level but again like Tom I too have over 300lb/ft and I raced mine at Santa Pod etc no issues (touch wood). Just look after the car properly which is the most important thing
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