How to spend 5k on LCR mods?

[The_one]

what a wonderfully blinkered point of view.....

no switching, no R&D, no adjustable boost, no adjustable timing, no valet mode, no anti theft mode.

sounds more like you'd have got 'done' had you paid full price for your 'e-maps' rather than mates rates (perhaps a 'deal' to bleat on about them?)

and dont you have to pay a lot extra for them?? i.e buy SPS 2 or 3.

 

[Si]

what a wonderfully blinkered point of view.....

no switching, no R&D, no adjustable boost, no adjustable timing, no valet mode, no anti theft mode.

sounds more like you'd have got 'done' had you paid full price for your 'e-maps' rather than mates rates (perhaps a 'deal' to bleat on about them?)

^^^ So wrong!

But I agree with Feel, this isn't the thread to be arguing, apologies to TDCupra.

 

[Feel]

The other thing to get would be vag-com and a lead of some sort - definitely worthwhile...

 

[BHP Addict]

I agree with the mods mentioned (whoever the manufacturer) would have a nice and 'quite nippy' motor.

Would people have a panel filter over an induction kit?
and why?

 

[m0rk]

I agree with the mods mentioned (whoever the manufacturer) would have a nice and 'quite nippy' motor.

Would people have a panel filter over an induction kit?
and why?

because VAG spent a lot longer designing the airbox & pressure drop over it than any induction kit manufacturer did.

and they can flow the same level of air if you modify it suitabley

 

[BHP Addict]

[/QUOTE]and they can flow the same level of air if you modify it suitabley[/QUOTE]

What would you recommend?

 

[m0rk]

openning up the inlet, smoothing the 'dirty' side & routing some piping to get some cold air.

then chuck in a Green Filter. £37 for the filter, £10 for the pipe - all it'll take beyond that is some time.

 

[TDCupra]

Thanks for all the info so far guys, much appreciated. I didn't realise IHI was so expensive, for some reason I thought it was about £2000, not £5000!

I don't really want to go budget on the suspension so I'd rather pay the extra and get something like Ruddmeister had. Is that the best suspension for the LCR?

I've already got a BMC CDA induction kit, Forge 007p and boost gauge fitted, so thats already sorted, I was surprised about the exhaust getting knocked off my list, but you guys know much more about it than me, so I'll forget about that for the moment.

So my new list looks like this:

Better suspension + front and rear ARBs £1200 (incl fitting and alignment)
Forge FMIC + Samco hoses £900
LSD £1300
Remap £500
Short Shifter and Dog bone engine mount £170
Front Strut Brace £60

That leaves £900 roughly, which I was thinking could be spent on some bigger Porsche brakes for the front maybe?

 

[TDCupra]

If I did all the above, how much better would the handling be? I know its never going to handle as well as a Lotus elise or any other rear wheel drive car, but what sort of car could it compete against on a track, faster than a Focus RS or CTR?

Also, how much difference will the LSD make to the grip, will I be able to get a 0-60 of around 5 seconds or am I way out?

The other BIG question is, is it worth doing all that stuff to make it handle better, or shall I just spend all the money on a bigger turbo?

 

[BlackCupraa]

I would personally sort out the handling first, then go BT (be it IHI or some form of Garrett)

 

[BHP Addict]

I do agree

Handling first and more power later.

Safer option IMO

 

[Ruddmeister]

I agree with the mods mentioned (whoever the manufacturer) would have a nice and 'quite nippy' motor.

Would people have a panel filter over an induction kit?
and why?

I tried the following

Std airbox std filter
Std airbox Green panel Filter
BMC CDA Induction kit
RAM Air Induction Kit

The RAM Air sounded great but mounting was a b1tch IMO, drove it and the mounting broke and the vibration killed my MAF which was another £70....partly my fault (installation) but there often seem to be issues with induction kits -> vibration -> MAF failure.

The induction kits looked great and the RAM AIR sounded cool but performance gains?, none.

If I had kept the LCR I was going to give the Dynatwist a try but the std airbox and green panel filter was just as good as the others above and far cheaper.

 

[Ruddmeister]

Also, how much difference will the LSD make to the grip, will I be able to get a 0-60 of around 5 seconds or am I way out?

The other BIG question is, is it worth doing all that stuff to make it handle better, or shall I just spend all the money on a bigger turbo?

Interestingly myself and CoxW spent similar amounts he went Revo Stage 2 (full Miltek exhaust,induction kit, 4bar FPR etc)on his std LCR, I stayed with Revo stage 1 and did the suspension.

We drove each others cars afterwards and In retrospect he did say he wished he's done the suspension and not the Revo stage 2.

Never got to take my car on track with suspension done but ATB/LSD would help too although for me driving Yermother's LCR with Quaife ATB was more about reprogramming yourself to drive the car......very odd not lifting off when the car begins to understeer....keep on the power and let the car pull you round.

If you want to stay with RS Focus and CTR's on track days buy some track day rubber too (Toyo R888 etc)

The LCR needs the suspension done IMO, huge difference not just cornering but not nose diving under braking etc lots of benefits.

 

[BHP Addict]

I tried the following

Std airbox std filter
Std airbox Green panel Filter
BMC CDA Induction kit
RAM Air Induction Kit

The RAM Air sounded great but mounting was a b1tch IMO, drove it and the mounting broke and the vibration killed my MAF which was another £70....partly my fault (installation) but there often seem to be issues with induction kits -> vibration -> MAF failure.

The induction kits looked great and the RAM AIR sounded cool but performance gains?, none.

If I had kept the LCR I was going to give the Dynatwist a try but the std airbox and green panel filter was just as good as the others above and far cheaper.

What was the BMC CDA like?

And how do I 'open up the inlet'?

 

[Ruddmeister]

What was the BMC CDA like?

Looks good
Sounds OK
Very well built
Easy to mount and fitted well

And how do I 'open up the inlet'?

Buy some 80mm dia flexi
Remove existing feed etc
Open up the airbox with a dremmel etc
Finding a route to the open air is tricky

 

[BHP Addict]

Cheers Rudd, I'm going to try the green filter for now (while do exterior) then probably looking to have BMC CDA or Viper added for looks and sound.

Thanks Mate

 

[Feel]

Interestingly myself and CoxW spent similar amounts he went Revo Stage 2 (full Miltek exhaust,induction kit, 4bar FPR etc)on his std LCR, I stayed with Revo stage 1 and did the suspension.

We drove each others cars afterwards and In retrospect he did say he wished he's done the suspension and not the Revo stage 2.

The LCR needs the suspension done IMO, huge difference not just cornering but not nose diving under braking etc lots of benefits.

I think the same, I would like to do Stage II (exhaust and everything) but can't bring myself to spend the money when I think it would be better sent elsewhere. Sure you get better figures, and I could feel a difference at the top end when I drove one but I didn't feel that, for me/my car, it was worth it.

I would like to do the suspension, but again, I'm happy with mine with just the 25mm rear ARB (although after 60k, I think the shocks have had it).

It's a hard one, but on balance I think I would sort the suspension rather than Stage II.

Also, after talking to a few big turbo chaps, it definitely makes sense to just get it chipped, then just start saving for a big turbo - they really are the two things that add most bang for your buck (or course, with a little planning you shouldn't waste any money on mods on the route to big turbo). But the main issue with big turbo for me, would reliability and personal control.

The kits all seem to be well engineered, but reliability does suffer (even if it's something else that breaks). And on the personal control thing - I don't mean driving ability, I mean the control needed to not keeping spending money on bigger and bigger turbos...

I'll agree with Ruddmeister though - driving the diff is a learning experience.

 

[Ruddmeister]

Also, after talking to a few big turbo chaps, it definitely makes sense to just get it chipped, then just start saving for a big turbo

I spoke to one he said

Get it chipped and then start saving for a proper fast car

 

[TDCupra]

Is the Quaife ATB the only LSD for the LCR or are there other options? What are the pros and cons of getting one fitted? I looked at the Quaife website and they say fitting the atb reduces torque steer, but I thought thats what the Focus RS has and that was a bitch to drive?

 

[Feel]

Quaife and Peloquin.

The one I've driven ws fin, just drives like a normal LCR, but grips where the normal scrabbles. Don't think it made a difference in straight line grip, but out of the bends/over humps/camber changes it definitely did...