James' LCR - 2008cc Stroker HTA GT3071r! - Tuned @ Badger5

[james.l]

Ad08 or R1R I've been looking at. Although there are some other options on the cards. Just doing my homework on them before making a decision.

 

[DOLBY]

Alright James.
just need to know all the accessories you bought with your catch can, also there are 2 different sizes for the (1 litre) can, both prices are the same. Im assuming its the smaller sized one.

Thanks.

 

[james.l]

Alright James.
just need to know all the accessories you bought with your catch can, also there are 2 different sizes for the (1 litre) can, both prices are the same. Im assuming its the smaller sized one.

Thanks.

Mine was custom made by them and not one of their off the shelf products. Will dig out the dimensions today.

 

[james.l]

Fitted my new SEM yesterday,

Going to get my air con recharged today as it hasn't had anything in it since the engine came out.

 

[J@mes W]

Looking good James. Looks nice in black.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[t0m]

Very nice in black that mate.

 

[james.l]

Thanks chaps

Thinking about doing the charge pipe and intake pipe black too

 

[J@mes W]

Yeah you could do, that'd look good. Although having polished metal and black looks pretty cool too! Either way it looks sweet.

 

[Poverty]

Wicked build

 

[james.l]

Wicked build

Thank you.

 

[james.l]

Fan Fix

Decided to finally get my arse into gear with regards to sorting a problem that I have got on my car with F*cked resistors in the rad fans. This is a big problem for MK4 platform cars which is explained in more depth here but the short and sweet of it is that the slow speed fans don't work . Slow speed fans should kick in between 92-97 degrees but if the resistor is burn't out then they won't kick in until between 99 - 105 degrees which ISN'T good!

I was going to buy the NIME fan controller which is circa £90.00 but you can make your own for <£25 which does exactly the same thing. Instructions below

Shopping List
1. 2 x 1Ohm 100W Aluminium Clad Resistors. RS Part Number 188087
2. Aluminium Sheet Heat Sink. RS Part Number 434043
3. Heatsink Compound - I'm Using Artic Silver computer compound
4. 4 x 60CM lengths of cable (>1.5mm2)
5. Heat shrink

Installation Instructions (courtesy of Alan Lorely)
1. Locate appropriate mounting point for heat sink close to the fan control module and drill mounting holes in heat sink.
2. Smear heatsink compound to back of resistors and secure to heatsink with nuts and bolts.
3. Solder a length of wire to each end of the resistors and heat shrink. ASSEMBLED HEAT SINK
4. Mount heathsink and check that nothing will be chaffing against any wires or cables.
5. Cut the RED/WHITE cable on the FAN SIDE of the connector to the large fan join the cable from the fan (just cut) to one side of a resistor, splice the other end of the resistor into the RED/BLACK wire on the FAN SIDE of the connector. FAN CIRCUIT (for each fan)
6. Repeat step 5 for the small fan using other resistor.
7. Make sure everything is heat shrink-ed and insulated to prevent chafing.
8. Test your installation using a voltmeter or put on the aircon, (slow speed fan should spin)

WARNING! - These resistors can get VERY hot when working (100c) so allow to cool before touching.

Thanks to Alan Lorely for this guide (PICTURES INSIDE)

Will get some pics up of my installation soon. Use this info at your own risk, I take no responsibility for any damage you do to your car.

 

[R4cup]

Superb build mate, this car must shift!!

Guess youve got rid of your old SEM mani?

 

[james.l]

I've still got an SEM manifold, just sold my old one.

 

[james.l]

Went about doing a service on the Leon today and drained the oil and my sump plug insert came out with the plug!! Only option is to remove the sump and put a new one on. I knew this could happen just really disappointed that it did, hindsight I should never have put the ECS magnetic plug in as this appears to be what has caused the problem BOTH times.

Spoke to Bill earlier about the best way of removing the sump as there are 3 bolts which look really inaccessible, need to get a wobble joint and a long 5mm ball ended allen key, going to try and crack off the bolts with a socket and unwind with the allen key.

Need to dig out my sup sealant as well! Trying to decide if I want to spend the extra cash on a baffled sump......

 

[Ronin225]

I was really giving some serious thought to getting a baffled sump, Alex now makes the replica seatsport ones
I did think it would be a wise move for track time plus the additional plate welded on the bottom offering a little extra grounding protection
He was going to do a group buy but only 2 of us showed interest so i left it be as without the discount it works out very expensive

 

[james.l]

I was really giving some serious thought to getting a baffled sump, Alex now makes the replica seatsport ones
I did think it would be a wise move for track time plus the additional plate welded on the bottom offering a little extra grounding protection
He was going to do a group buy but only 2 of us showed interest so i left it be as without the discount it works out very expensive

To be honest I can't really afford one at the moment due to just buying 2 new AD08's @ £300. So going to have a look for a second hand BAM sump and just put that on for the time being, gutted as there is a really big car meet tomorrow and really wanted to go but can't now.

 

[Ronin225]

I've got a spare one from the S3 if you need it

 

[james.l]

Has it got the oil level sensor?

 

[Ronin225]

From memory yes, code is APY if want to check on vagcat

 

[james.l]

Apparently all these sumps :

ENGINE CODES - AUM, BVP, AJQ, APP, ARY, AUQ, BVR, APX, BAM

Are the same.....