Manual boost controller

[Big_daddy]

im wanting to get manual boost controller and replace the n75.
there diifernt types out there. some have 3 ports and some have 2. which would i need?
if i get that fitted what shall i do with n75? i dont dsconnect it it will cause a fault!
Any suggestion?

 

[m0rk]

You need the ECU to control the boost though....

 

[Big_daddy]

why wont a manual work? im aware that car msut be running at the same fuel /air as well. i just want to boost it so it more stable as i dont trust the N75!

 

[m0rk]

The N75 is fine though? If you want it to boost more, the ECU needs to tell it to

 

[Big_daddy]

ok what if you link the n75 piping to the manual boost controller but the keep the n75 connector plugged in. will this work?

 

[gavthelad]

youre on about a bleed valve arent you? bit dodgy mate, i wouldnt bother!!

 

[m0rk]

The N75 will still report a -ve deviation though....

I don't understand what you're trying to achieve?

More power, but no remap (won't work)

 

[Big_daddy]

whats is a bleed valve? how does that work?

 

[gavthelad]

here you are:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brass-lockable-3-port-bleed-valve-Boost-Control_W0QQitemZ270081447444QQihZ017QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Its been a long time, had one on my rs turbo when i bought it and i took it off pretty quick but if my brain remembers correctly the basic principle is that it bleeds pressure away from your actuator making the engine/turbo work harder to maintain pressure........

This is fine on a basic engine such as the rs turbo but on the cupra will no doubt instantly throw up a fault code and it wont run correctly.......plus it really shortens the life of your turbo anyway....not good....

 

[Big_daddy]

wat do u think of this 1?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vw-boost-mach...0QQihZ019QQcategoryZ72205QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[gavthelad]

i still wouldnt risk it.........looks sort of homemade aswell.

 

[ibizacupra]

It helps if you understand your car & turbo first.
N75 is an electronic version of the bleed valve running from turbo outlet to actuator, bleeding back to intake when energised at various duty cycles according to "what the ecu is asking for boost wise"

Where the ecu see's a deviation >~250mb it will drop into limp mode, which is actuator pressure only. If yours is std there wont be a big difference between full boost and actuator only boost (5psi)

Run more boost by introducing a leak (bleed valve) will cause the ecu to throw a wobbly, drop into limp mode, and remember if you ask fo rmore boost you need to add more fuel to go with it to avoid the risk of lean and melting valves and pistons.

do it properly.. remap is the answer. expensive mystake otherwise.

 

[gavthelad]

It helps if you understand your car & turbo first.
N75 is an electronic version of the bleed valve running from turbo outlet to actuator, bleeding back to intake when energised at various duty cycles according to "what the ecu is asking for boost wise"

Where the ecu see's a deviation >~250mb it will drop into limp mode, which is actuator pressure only. If yours is std there wont be a big difference between full boost and actuator only boost (5psi)

Run more boost by introducing a leak (bleed valve) will cause the ecu to throw a wobbly, drop into limp mode, and remember if you ask fo rmore boost you need to add more fuel to go with it to avoid the risk of lean and melting valves and pistons.

do it properly.. remap is the answer. expensive mystake otherwise.

thats what i was trying to say......

 

[Big_daddy]

thanks guys, jus doin my home work, guna invest my money in a remap instead!

 

[225 Cupra R]

thanks guys, jus doin my home work, guna invest my money in a remap instead!

i have had a remap and now thinking of getting a manual boost control fitted. is this a good idea? i haven't got a clue myself. will it do its job or what do you say ?

also does the boost control, replaces the N75 valve ? is that where it is fitted ?

 

[DPJ]

It helps if you understand your car & turbo first.
N75 is an electronic version of the bleed valve running from turbo outlet to actuator, bleeding back to intake when energised at various duty cycles according to "what the ecu is asking for boost wise"

Where the ecu see's a deviation >~250mb it will drop into limp mode, which is actuator pressure only. If yours is std there wont be a big difference between full boost and actuator only boost (5psi)

Run more boost by introducing a leak (bleed valve) will cause the ecu to throw a wobbly, drop into limp mode, and remember if you ask fo rmore boost you need to add more fuel to go with it to avoid the risk of lean and melting valves and pistons.

do it properly.. remap is the answer. expensive mystake otherwise.

I'm running at 1.4 bar of boost most of the way across the range with my Revo Stage 3 map. (It hits 1.8 bar before the N75 gets its arse into gear and opens the wastegate dramatically.) If I was to run a bleed valve to try and get 1.5 bar across the range, wouldn't the ECU just read the excess pressure and get the N75 to try harder to drop the pressure?

 

[m0rk]

you need to know what the deviation window is on stage 3 before it hits limp mode

 

[DPJ]

you need to know what the deviation window is on stage 3 before it hits limp mode

Cheers, Mark.

 

[PhilW]

I think dave can run a lot to be honest, as much as he wants as the requested is pretty high and the MAP sensor maxed out is within the deviation, i've seen it on my car and his stage 3 must be requesting more.

Your WG duty will be essentially wrong dave and you need to keep an eye on the A/F is you are gonna be using a MBC/EBC.

Personally i'm at a point where i think i'm gonna invest in an apexi to control the duty along with a decent wideband.

Dave, inline 2 port standrad bleed valve is the way forward.