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Mk3 Leon st subwoofer wiring

Lozzy15

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Mar 24, 2015
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Ilkeston, Derbyshire
Yea it really does make a difference. You just need to make sure you wire the sound input from the rear speaker cables to get it to work. The eaiest way I found was to take it from source from the stereo in the glovebox, the images in this thread shows the connector for this.
 
Sep 12, 2019
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Yea it really does make a difference. You just need to make sure you wire the sound input from the rear speaker cables to get it to work. The eaiest way I found was to take it from source from the stereo in the glovebox, the images in this thread shows the connector for this.
I will definitely have a look when I'm home, and attempt it depending on how hard it looks! Cheers

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

Lozzy15

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Mar 24, 2015
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Ilkeston, Derbyshire
I will definitely have a look when I'm home, and attempt it depending on how hard it looks! Cheers

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
The wiring is the hardest part, the access to the wires behind the glovebox is abit tight. Laying the wires is fairly easy to do. You can take a positive feed off the main feed under the fuse box, and an earth point is under the passenger door sill cover. A switched ignition live for the remote feed can be taken off of fuse 40.
 
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Phil-osopher10

Active Member
Sep 23, 2019
15
7
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm thinking of installing one of these kenwood ksc sw11 too.

I think I have a decent enough handle on the signal and the remote, ie use the above diagram to tap into the front speakers and use the 12v cigarette lighter for the remote with an additional fuse tap.

My issue is the 12v constant, which wastedagenhas seemingly tapped into the red cable for, being a little apprehensive of this method (mainly, due to inexperience with car electrics), i've come across someone who says that nr 3 on the interior fuse box is a spare constant 12 and you could tap into that. my question is, how do i do that? what do i need to buy?

https://fuse-box.info/seat/seat-leon-mk3-5f-2013-2018-fuses
 

Lozzy15

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Staff member
Moderator
Mar 24, 2015
361
197
Ilkeston, Derbyshire
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm thinking of installing one of these kenwood ksc sw11 too.

I think I have a decent enough handle on the signal and the remote, ie use the above diagram to tap into the front speakers and use the 12v cigarette lighter for the remote with an additional fuse tap.

My issue is the 12v constant, which wastedagenhas seemingly tapped into the red cable for, being a little apprehensive of this method (mainly, due to inexperience with car electrics), i've come across someone who says that nr 3 on the interior fuse box is a spare constant 12 and you could tap into that. my question is, how do i do that? what do i need to buy?

https://fuse-box.info/seat/seat-leon-mk3-5f-2013-2018-fuses
Just a quick correction, you'll want to tap into the rear speaker feed. When I installed mine I took the feed from the fronts and it doesn't pick up the signal from them, you have to use the rear.

In terms of a constant feed, I'm unsure about the fuse you're referring to, but I also took my feed from the red cable feeding into the fuse box as mentioned. In the passenger footwell, remove the upper cover held on with 3 T25 Torx screws, then look to the left. You'll see a thick red cable that leads upto the fuse box. I cut away the plastic sheathing and coiled & taped my constant feed onto it, then re-wrapped and taped up the cable:
 

Wastedagen

Active Member
Aug 3, 2017
411
79
Milton keynes
Not sure what the difference is with tapping into the rear speaker feed as opposed to the fronts.

I tapped into the fronts and all works OK.

Just make sure your not trying to tap into the tweeters by mistake.
 

Wastedagen

Active Member
Aug 3, 2017
411
79
Milton keynes
My issue is the 12v constant, which wastedagen has seemingly tapped into the red cable for, being a little apprehensive of this method.
The main reason I did this was because this is the main wire direct from the battery into the cars fuse box. Since I installed two of these amps, I wanted the thickest wire to eliminate any possibility of running too much current through the wire.

I don't know what #3 fuse relates too, but if it's of adequate thickness and is indeed a permanent 12V feed then go ahead and use it......
 

Mr_G_76

Active Member
May 3, 2019
22
13
Theres a spare permant live in the fuse box behind the glovebox, as I've used it for the parking guard on my dashcam. It's in the top left corner of the fusebox from memory.
 

Mr_G_76

Active Member
May 3, 2019
22
13
I've stolen the pic from elsewhere on the forum, and circled the permanent live in red.
20190923_203946.jpg
 

Lozzy15

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Staff member
Moderator
Mar 24, 2015
361
197
Ilkeston, Derbyshire
Not sure what the difference is with tapping into the rear speaker feed as opposed to the fronts.

I tapped into the fronts and all works OK.

Just make sure your not trying to tap into the tweeters by mistake.
Odd. I defintatly wired into the front speakers and it just wouldn't work. As soon as I hooked into the rear, it worked spot on :blink:
 

Phil-osopher10

Active Member
Sep 23, 2019
15
7
This is the pin diagram for the big black plug on the back of unit in glove box.... The circled pins are the tweeters... Door speakers are on the right of that...



When I installed my 2 underseat subs, I tapped off the front door speakers... Left door speaker to left sub, right door speaker to right sub..These subs take both high level and low level inputs.
QUOTE] .

The ones circled in red here, from memory they are for the tweeters? I think I may have seen a diagram on that somewhere. I was just going to tap into the FL & FR
 

Phil-osopher10

Active Member
Sep 23, 2019
15
7
Just a quick correction, you'll want to tap into the rear speaker feed. When I installed mine I took the feed from the fronts and it doesn't pick up the signal from them, you have to use the rear.

In terms of a constant feed, I'm unsure about the fuse you're referring to, but I also took my feed from the red cable feeding into the fuse box as mentioned. In the passenger footwell, remove the upper cover held on with 3 T25 Torx screws, then look to the left. You'll see a thick red cable that leads upto the fuse box. I cut away the plastic sheathing and coiled & taped my constant feed onto it, then re-wrapped and taped up the cable:
That looks clean, my concern was messing up the entire fuse box of the car, but I suppose when I think about it, if it goes past shape I'd only need to replace that cable
 

Owen83

Active Member
Feb 9, 2018
77
20
Is the 12V feed fromt he battery (thick red wore) fused at the battery terminal? if you are cutting into it before the fuse box and you get a short, there thick cable will just burn away if not protected by a fuse and your car could go up in smoke!
 

Lozzy15

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Staff member
Moderator
Mar 24, 2015
361
197
Ilkeston, Derbyshire
Is the 12V feed fromt he battery (thick red wore) fused at the battery terminal? if you are cutting into it before the fuse box and you get a short, there thick cable will just burn away if not protected by a fuse and your car could go up in smoke!
Yes you need to take basic precautions when doing this. Disconnecting the battery and ensuring the cable is fully insulated once the works been done will prevent the possibility of a fire or electrical short. I would suggest installing everything including your earth leads, then wire up to the main feed at the end to ensure no possibility of a short with the rest of the wiring once the constant feed has been attached. That's how I did mine.
 

Phil-osopher10

Active Member
Sep 23, 2019
15
7
Great thanks! I've ordered up all the parts now so in the next week or two hopefully I'll get a chance to attempt to install.

I think, at first, I'll try the spade connector into slot 3, however if that doesn't work I'll splice into the red!
 

Phil-osopher10

Active Member
Sep 23, 2019
15
7
So I had a bit of a look at it today. Where did you run your wires from the head unit in the glove box? Did you have to remove glove box and sill trim to get at it all?
 
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