Oil temp sender cracked in filter housing!!! Please have a look at last post

[Pidge]

Right ive finally got sick and tired of my guages not having the backlighting wired up so im going to have a go at hooking them up this week.

Ive had a very thorough search and cannot find a definative answer to any of my questions below so if you know please lend a hand, if your going to tell me to search, save it
The only reason im having to post this thread is people have a knack for asking the same questions over and over again, then figure out the answer and never post back with the solution ****s me right off that does! So once ive got all this sorted i will make an effort to include a few pics of the wiring and the steps involved, think of it as an attache to Craig!'s guide

So...Ive got autoguage Boost and Oil Temp gauges in the car and basically need to know which colour wires go where.

Ive read Craig!'s guide and seen the photos of PhilW's wiring on the back of his headlight switch (pics attached at the end) but these still dont solve my problem

On the rear of the guages there are 4 wires:

Purple
Yellow
Redish/Orangish
Black

This is my old voltage guage (autoguage) which was never hooked up at all but it still has the same 4 wires out the back:

Now basically what im needing to know is:

1 - Where each of these wires needs to be connected to
2 - What gauge of wire to use to extend these wires so they can be connected down at the headlight switch
3 - Where to get said wire
4 - Where to earth the guages (in Craig!'s guide he mentioned earthing them on the engine as he was running a wire through there anyway, however i was wondering if there was a -ve/earth wire in the back of the headligt switch?)
5 - What guage of wire to use for the connection between the oil temp sender and the actual guage itself

One last question:

Does anyone know the thread specs of an autoguage oil temp sender? Is it M10x1 or 1/8 NPT as ill need to get a sodding adaptor if its the latter and id like to have everything i need ready to go when im doing it!

Pics of the headlight switch and PhilW's connections:

Any help would be very much appreciated

 

[SidewaysCupra]

Having just fitted the exact same boost gauge in my car only this week it's all fresh in my memory.

I used this guide:

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1684844&postcount=4

To extend the wiring from the gauge I used halfords 8 amp wire:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_199613_langId_-1_categoryId_165562

It's probably a higher gauge wire than you really need but better to be on the safe side. Mine works fine with it.

You take the earth from the back of the headlight switch. Once you pull the switch assembly out you will see that you have very little cable to play with. I found it very fiddly.

Sorry I cant be of any use with the oil temp gauge though.

Hope that helps.

 

[Pidge]

Can you remember exactly where the earth on the back of the switch is? Ie which wire is it?

Also does anyone know if its ok to run 2 wires from each scotch block (obv one for each guage)?

Wait scratch that, the guide you posted a link to should do it

 

[Pidge]

Right need to bump this as ive now got more issues

Ive got the guage all in and wired along with the sender which was an m10x1 thread and went into the oil filter housing (after removing the blanking plug).

When fitting i didnt use a copper washer (didnt have one to hand!) and the sender seemed as though it had threaded all the way in with about 1-2mm of thread left to go. Odd i thought but as i kept turning it went slack again and went all the way down and went tight. Sorted i thought, no!

Ive now got oil leaking through the sender itself somehow and it appears that the top of the unit has a crack in it. The thing im finding most confusing is that the sender is a one piece construction on the engine side meaning there shouldnt be anywhere/anyway of oil getting back up through it.

There is no noticable amounts of oil coming up through the threads either.

The sender has 2 cables coming out of it and these have bullet connectors on them. Since the oil has leaked one of the connectors has now filled with oil!

Im absolutely stumped as to what i did wrong (other than not using a copper washer!) and cant figure out why oil has managed to come back up through the sender.

Im going to whip the sender back out tomorrow and inspect it and in the mean time im going to order another one from demon tweeks. Does anyone know if a sender such as this:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=ROAD&pcode=GLOOTS

Will be compatible with an AutoGuage oil temp guage as it only has one connection on it as opposed to the 2 on the original AG item (one connection to guage and one earth)?

I should also add that the oil pressure warning light hasnt come on since ive noticed the leak either but im not happy about this whole shitty issue!

Im really needing some advice guys so if Bill/anyone in the know about these things could reply that would be great!

 

[wilz]

Pidge you seem to be having no luck. If you want you can have a butchers at my car.

also away to get the stickers for the oz t's so will get a piture for you.

 

[traumapat]

so the sender has cracked? i think youll need an identical sender with the same wiring.

if its leaking with engine running its pressure... mine did the same until i added a washer

 

[kieran cupra]

hi i fitted an seat oil temp sender, which i think is from a ibiza cupra r, it too only had one spade on it, i think it earths itself to the engine when it is tightened, it should have a copper washer on it other wise it will leake, you can also purchase the sender from gsf for about £8. I have same gauges as you and wish i had never started as my 1st sender snappe in the housing, the secound was ok though, dont over tighten just give a lil trn with a spanner, and then check for leakes, if it leaks like mine did just tighten a lil more until it stops. the pat number for the sender is on the parts list on the ibiza forum, good luck

 

[Pidge]

Well, i found the problem:

The sender was too long and has cracked against the inside of the oil filter housing. And the bit thats missing, its still in there somewhere

Not sure if i should go fishing for it with a pen magnet or whether its unlikely to do any damage. Can it get any further than the filter itself?? Opinions please?

Ive ordered a new twin wire sender and also a single spade sender along with a 1/8 NPT to M10x1 Long adaptor from demon tweeks so should be fine getting one of them in when they arrive

So to conclude, an AutoGuage oil temp sender is too long for the oil filter housing. Be warned!!!

Kind of wish i never started fecking around with a temp guage. Im now considering seeing if anyone wants to swap a Nomad twin pod pillar for a single pod one and just running a boost guage. Will see what like though once the new senders arrive and if they have similar problems

 

[traumapat]

a sandwich plate would give you greater depth for the sender. looks identical to mine which is prosport.

id pm the likes of bill ect on the missing bit. not sure what it could do but if it blocked an oil pick up it could be very bad. may have to get the sump off

could be worse... imagine cross threading it to a permenant leak... be a huge job re-threading it.

cheer up mate. be dandy once its finished

 

[Pidge]

Right ive had a good look down the whole now and this is what is sitting in it:

Thats the bottom part of the temp sender and is now wedged in the hole just below the end of the threaded section

Ive tried fishing it out with wire with a 90deg bend on the end but it wont budge at all! Ive also tried to see if it will go down at all and it wont

Now the big question is should i admit defeat and leave it in there on the assumption that it wont move further into the flow of oil and possibly block an oil feed.

Or do i attempt to remove the oil cooler and then force it out when i can get something proper in there?

How would i go about removing the oil cooler anyway? Obv oil filter off but what do i need to do after that?

ETOS shows a bar running through the oil filter bracket a la:

Any ideads on how to remove that as id assume once thats out (if it even needs to come out) i could knock the oil cooler off and then punch the offending item out?