On jacking and axle stands

rafletcher

Active Member
Feb 18, 2021
144
61
I jacked my Ateca up for the first time today (I have a Cupra with 20 rims and wanted to know the rim width and offset, some Seat have failed to provide me) and whilst doing so had a quick gander under the front to see where I might position an axle stand, as I want to fit mud flaps, and as we all know, working with just a jack is tempting fate. What I saw was (unlike my previous MQB platform car, an S3) an expanse of smooth plastic undertray with no obvious support points. However, on my car at least, the jacking point is much longer than I’ve been used to, around 100mm. It seems to me potentially possible to position two scissor jacks side by side on the one jacking point, thus giving additional security (when coupled with wheel chocks, etc.) for working on the arches. I’d still not get under though. I shall tr6 and borrow another jack and see if I’m right.
 

Seriously?

Active Member
Apr 20, 2018
751
461
I don't know about the Ateca, but on the Leon, there are 4 post lift points hidden under small removable plastic covers. May be worth a further investigation.
 

rafletcher

Active Member
Feb 18, 2021
144
61
WellI had a better look today. Still can’t see anything at the front, but I can probably fit those mud flaps by turning to full lock and using a hand held pin chuck to drill the holes. At the back there is something inboard of the jacking point - anyone know whether it can be used either for a trolley jack or axle stand?
Untitled by Richard Fletcher, on Flickr
 

rafletcher

Active Member
Feb 18, 2021
144
61
Thread resurrection. I had a bit of a brainwave last evening, and on checking today, I think I’ve found a solution. The good thing about the Ateca jacking points on the sill seam is tha5 they are much longer than on the A3, they’re at least 10cm long. what that means is there is sufficient length to Jack the car up using a trolley jack, with a rubber puck, positioned towards one end of the jacking reinforcement, and still have enough room to get an axle stand under the same jacking point alongside it. In my case, because I only have some rough ground to work on, and the trolley jack won’t travel on it, I’ll use the scissor jack initially, then support with the trolley jack, and swap the axle stand in for the scissor jack.
 
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rafletcher

Active Member
Feb 18, 2021
144
61
Well, I can’t report that that idea is a bust. The trolley jack / axle stand doesn’t work, because even though the length or reinforced jacking point is long enough to accomodate the puck plus stand top, because the travel of the trolley jack head is all within the length of its chassis, there is no way to get both in. Plan 2 therefore was axle stand and scissor jack. But for that some 7.5” of jacking point length is required, due to the splay of the axle stand legs. There’s only just over 5” available.

The only way I can do the front flaps and feel relatively sure of myself is to use 2 scissor jacks in case of collapse, and apply the handbrake AND chock the opposite rear wheel. With the fronts there’s no need to get underneath.

The rears are a different matter. Front wheels only held on transmission lock, so not 100% movement free, and there’s a need to ge5 under the rear to drill up into the undertray and fiddle about with a nut and bolt. Maybe if I had ramps as well, but I don’t, and the cost is outweighed by the problems of storage and the minimal charge from a local garage to do the work. So, I’ll do the fronts, and wait until the service in September to get the rears done.
 
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