Been having troubles with my pd150 again. I had the turbo professionally reconditioned with all new inners and balanced ect the housing used was the original one though. I have had it on my car 2 weeks and had been fine it sounded loud (whistley) but was okay, my turbo had been boosting up to 2bar which is logged using vcds. I went to get in it earlier and started up and immediately started sounding a little like siren and when i drive it up the road does sound very siren like and it doesn't seem to boost properly. I tried key off and on thinking vanes might have jammed but when started again is still the same. Anyone know what's going on or have any suggestions on what to do? Im going to be annoyed if it's turbo gone again as cost me £300 to get it reconditioned. (Note when i drive my car i always slow it 2 minutes to get oil flowing before i start driving and always drive it steady until it's at operating temperature before giving it some right foot)
Pd150 turbo problems (siren noise?)
- Thread starter Ryan_98
- Start date
Generally a siren noise from the turbo means it has had it. Best take it back to where it was done!
Yeah it's only done 200miles but I'm having trouble with boost pressure as i have 2 bar gauge and when i boot it it's boosts along time at 2 bar and think it's boosting more as looked on vcds and it maxes out at 2988 mbar so can't tell what it actually goes up to so think it's overspinning. It whistles on idle and as soon as rev a little it spools up fast. Not sure if it's vane actuator as guy before said it may have been altered. But i don't know if it's bad remap as only get 38mpg driveing very economical. Will double check how much boost ECU is requesting as still have the log on laptop but won't be there till the weekend
Am going to check them but didn't get chance to do proper test in 3rd and boot it so it's just a bit of when i iad enough road to boot it but I'm sure it was requesting something like 1.8bar which is still quite high from what i have read
I'll tell you a thing from my experience, I would never recondition any turbo, regardless of how professional the company seems. Only second hand turbo in good condition or a brand new one. Your turbo is totally out of control. You better not floor it untill you get it sorted. An optimistic scenario will be ( the vacum rod screw might have loosen up - and the rod needs extending ) the guys that reconditioned your turbo might have not set it up corectly ) or another thing ( a common one ) is that the reconditioning process has been f***ed. So either try to extend the rod ( full turn and log it ) or take it back where it was reconditioned. Another reason why i would never recondition a turbo - usually its done wrong, and don't want to be bothered taking the turbo out every month or two.
Hope its only fine tuning the rod lenght in your case
Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Ps is the car tuned? Or is it stock ? If it's stock, the turbo should never go above +/- 1.55b of boost. The map cant push it to hard, map is set to a certain boost value@rpm. What makes the turbo overboost above 2k rpm is either sticky vanes, rod to short or a rusted actuator and so on.
Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Thanks for your replies. That makes sense. I am going to check actuator rod and try extending it to see if that helps sort it. And it is remapped running 190bhp but it goes like s**t off a shovel but sounds like a jet as turbo spinning quite loud. And i don't ever take it above 2700 revs as just has so much torque low down it pulls very strong and it seems to hold at least 2 bar from 1500 to 2700 maybe more pressure than that as boost gauge is max at 2 bar
Just started it up then to move it and it does siren fairly loud just on idle and my car idles at 0.2 bar? That's more than it should. And if i remove my intake pipe the 90degree one and hold it off so the air escapes and is not reving the engine as much the turbo quietens down and siren is far less noticeable so thinking rod is too short as the vane actuator is at 24% which is what it should be for idle but is boosting more than it should which the arm being too short would cause
Vcds will show max of 2988boost, you can also get yourself a 3b mapsensor and adjust the map. But thats going forward. 2b of boost for an ARL turbo is definite too much for that turbo if you ask me. Its not only boost that makes the hp 
PS. Take the turbo inlet pipe out and check the schaft longitudinal tightnesr, if its too loose then its a problem
Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
PS. Take the turbo inlet pipe out and check the schaft longitudinal tightnesr, if its too loose then its a problem
Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Vcds will show max of 2988boost, you can also get yourself a 3b mapsensor and adjust the map. But thats going forward. 2b of boost for an ARL turbo is definite too much for that turbo if you ask me. Its not only boost that makes the hp
PS. Take the turbo inlet pipe out and check the schaft longitudinal tightnesr, if its too loose then its a problem
Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Thanks, I'm pretty sure it's been boosting over 2bar so i don't hold much hope that the turbo is any good anymore especially with how quickly it's already started to siren.ill have a look at arm this weekend and just run it on pretty much tickover till then and see if i ian adjust it. That's only trouble with getting a car someone has messed about with before. But will have to take turbo back to get it redone but either need really cheap one to shuck on there to use for now or I'm going to be without a car for a week until turbo is redone again and i chuck it back on
So I've had a look at my actuator and I'm pretty sure it's the problem the person before having 'tweaked' it is a massive understatement. The nut had been wound all the way down and the rod all the way down and then maybe one turn back off, so it was at the earliest possible point for it to star spooling which was why it had been spiking so high because it's spooling so fast ECU doesn't have enough time to realise it's already boosting more than it's requesting to then shut the vanes to stop the excess spooling. So i have wound it back alot making it longer this making the spool time later and less aggressive (no longer spooling on idle!!!) <-- thank f**k for that. Just need to fine tue it to get it close as i can to giving the requested boost. And yet turbo is kaput he's a little side to side longitudinal play can feel it nearly a millimetre or so (alot for turbo specs i i know) and it wicked up and down in the compressor housing. It is not touching the casing thankfully but it has to come off and be reconditioned again! Thank you both for you inputs greatly appreciated
Dont worry that much about the diagonal movement - its being centralized when oil flows. Its fine as long as it doesn't touch the housing when you move it. Longitudinal movement of 1mm or so is not that bad either. I wouldn't disqualify the turbo yet. If you fine tune it (the rod) and it spools correctly and doesn't overboost then i wouldn't take it out yet. A much reasonable approach would be driving it a while, and taking it back for reconditioning when the warranty is almost overSo I've had a look at my actuator and I'm pretty sure it's the problem the person before having 'tweaked' it is a massive understatement. The nut had been wound all the way down and the rod all the way down and then maybe one turn back off, so it was at the earliest possible point for it to star spooling which was why it had been spiking so high because it's spooling so fast ECU doesn't have enough time to realise it's already boosting more than it's requesting to then shut the vanes to stop the excess spooling. So i have wound it back alot making it longer this making the spool time later and less aggressive (no longer spooling on idle!!!) <-- thank f**k for that. Just need to fine tue it to get it close as i can to giving the requested boost. And yet turbo is kaput he's a little side to side longitudinal play can feel it nearly a millimetre or so (alot for turbo specs i i know) and it wicked up and down in the compressor housing. It is not touching the casing thankfully but it has to come off and be reconditioned again! Thank you both for you inputs greatly appreciated
happy i could help.Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
If i wiggle it it's just about touching and when was refurbished has so little play was not noticeable. And it's fairly loud. I'm going to get it done as it is off the car now already. My concern about it is the fact i now have some oil in intercooler pipes and the fact that it has been boosting to the unknown it has been boosting over 2 bar is all i know as it maxes out my 2 bar gauge very quick and holds it there. And the turbo sounds like a jet when it's going i take it because its spinning so fast. I don't want to chance the turbo properly failing and ruining the engine as well or leave me stranded. plus will give me chance to get the inlet manifold ultrasonic cleaned while he does the turbo to get rid of the remaining soot from intake thanks let's hope when new turbo goes on i get no more problems. Removing turbo on that was so much easier after egr and cooler is deleted was a breeze but thanks for your help
Not a problem
although i wouldnt put that turbo again in the car. Would get it re done and would sell it. fit a GTB1756vk at least to use the potential of the AL injectors. But thats only my opinion Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Just thought i would update you on the failure of my turbo, it was the thrust bearing that was at fault where it had been spinning at a rediculous revolution giving me nearly 2.5 bar of boost, the force of the air going through it on acceleration and then off acceleration has been forcing it side to side cause it to wear excessively. This is part of the reason they are only rated for around 1.6 bar max of boost. It is currently being done and i shall have it in the next day or two to out it back on as dont have enough time to get a new turbo(larger one). So it will go back on and do for now. With my actuator now near the correct length it should be okay i will fine tune it so that the actual boost matches the requested boost as close as possible. Which will mean no more overspooling and not always whistling on idle. Can't wait to get the dirty diesel back on the road mugging those petrol put-puts off thanks Maciek.snow
thanks Maciek.snow 
Good to hear you've got to the bottom of the issue, who's rebuilding your turbo?
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
By 'Air bearings solutions' great guy that does it, really knows his stuff, is spot on. Does great work. Turbos comes out more precise and to a higher tolerance than they would from new. Lacated in Dorset and just up the road from me so is convenient for me
Happy for you buddyJust thought i would update you on the failure of my turbo, it was the thrust bearing that was at fault where it had been spinning at a rediculous revolution giving me nearly 2.5 bar of boost, the force of the air going through it on acceleration and then off acceleration has been forcing it side to side cause it to wear excessively. This is part of the reason they are only rated for around 1.6 bar max of boost. It is currently being done and i shall have it in the next day or two to out it back on as dont have enough time to get a new turbo(larger one). So it will go back on and do for now. With my actuator now near the correct length it should be okay i will fine tune it so that the actual boost matches the requested boost as close as possible. Which will mean no more overspooling and not always whistling on idle. Can't wait to get the dirty diesel back on the road mugging those petrol put-puts offthanks Maciek.snow
thanks Maciek.snow and glad i could help a bit let us know your thoughts once you have the turbo on the car already 
Wysłane z mojego SM-G930F przy użyciu Tapatalka
Similar threads
