Relocating battery to boot.

[The MoffMeister]

looks good the usrt one rob and isnt to badly priced may look into that one in new year

 

[RobDon]

Looks like EVO's like a battery relocation to the boot too:

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?threadid=182853&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

Same tray as I've ordered too!

 

[PhilW]

Just to bump this, are any of you running inline fuses to the battery?

I was thinking of just buying a Autoleads 4 awg kit which comes with battery terminals and a 150amp fuse.

 

[Jonah]

Finding a good inlet mani for the 180 engine is very difficult, I had high hopes of a Monster 007 small port but don't know what's going on. I can get a USRT mani but have't really seen any test results for them, but haven't heard anything negative either.

http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_3&products_id=289

A lot of money for very little point tho...

 

[RobDon]

Not really, the stock intake mani is really badly designed with poor flow.

 

[Jonah]

Not really, the stock intake mani is really badly designed with poor flow.

True but the engine will only flow a certain amount of air in any event dependant on engine and maf. An uprated IM may improve things but by really very little unless your IM is so unusually poor.

 

[ibizacupra]

A lot of money for very little point tho...

no it aint when you flow more....

 

[PhilW]

Back on topic, but this is a good site for parts to do the relocation...

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

Cheap ~0 awg wiring, fuses etc..

 

[Jonah]

no it aint when you flow more....

That's my point engine and maf dependant - I have BT now and yes I would see some improvement but a very small amount compared to the cost of IM. In your case where every little counts fairy nuff - but generally there are better things you can spend your money on...

 

[MDS]

Why not fit a smaller sized GEL- Battery.

I know some fellows here use them for weight gains.

Its about the size of a motorbike battery...

 

[RobDon]

Tried one before, went flat after a week of not being used - no use to me!

I now have all the parts required to relocate my battery into the spare wheel well, so will be doing it soon. I trial-fitted the alloy tray and it fits in really good, got to drill 4 holes and bolt it in but the whole job looks pretty straightforward.

 

[CupraMVR]

Good luck with the job

 

[PhilW]

Just to bump this again, rob are you going to use welding cable or audio power cable?

I'm just wondering if 4 awg audio cable would be alright to use.

Cheers.

 

[ibizacupra]

That's my point engine and maf dependant - I have BT now and yes I would see some improvement but a very small amount compared to the cost of IM. In your case where every little counts fairy nuff - but generally there are better things you can spend your money on...

"very small"????

32bhp gain from a bolt on is impressive.... i dont know of any other 'bolt on' which would do the same..
its all relative to airflow/power i know, but you cant just say "its not worth it" when 32bhp gains can be achieved - dyno proven.
It was not chasing the ones or two bhp's.......

thats all I'm saying fella

I can recall a conversation with a "well known" vag tuner that in their opinion small port was fine, (they claimed figures to prove it), good for 400bhp easy, large t'bodies pointless....... and that same tuner now runs largeport, sells large throttle's, inlet manifold etc... Go figure.

Its not all about "da boost" which some get fixated about. thats just pumping effort required to achieve a "flow" which is whats generating your power. more flow, more power.
its all good.

 

[ibizacupra]

What battery have you opted for Rob?
badgerwagen may go small gell or dry cell during rebuild

thanks
bill

 

[RobDon]

Well it's done! I relocated my battery to the boot, wasn't a very difficult job really. I have a small Enersys Odyssey PC680 which I will try soon, but for now the standard battery is in there, works as normal and fires up no problem.

http://www.active-robots.com/products/power-supplies/odyssey-batteries.shtml

I ran 4-gauge power wire through the car behind the sill trim from bay to boot, only 3 trim panels to remove. Drilled 3 holes in the boot (checked underneath first!), one for an earth point and 2 for securing the tray, the 3rd tray bolt went into the spare wheel bolt hole and through a sturdy bracket, feels solid enough. Once bolted in I treated all holes and bolts under the car with underseal to prevent any water ingress and corrosion.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/robd67/battrel1.jpg

Once old factory tray was out I chopped the negative terminal off and fitted an 'O' connector then bolted it to the chassis. I used a wire brush attachment on the drill to take the metal back to bare on both the chassis holes to ensure a good signal, then smeared underseal on the bolt to seal it up.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n191/robd67/battrel2.jpg

I will convert the + leads in the engine bay into a distribution block once it arrives, but they are taped up for now. Overall a pretty easy job really, I will sort the boot carpet out soon so it looks alot nicer with carpet round the tray etc.

 

[The MoffMeister]

looks good rob so all the original + wires are chop blocked together then the new wire run to that? im just asking as im not sure about all them that are on top of the battery?

 

[PhilW]

Started doing mine today, well i put the battery in the boot, should be easy to do the rest.

Rob, did you use audio power cables or welding cables?

 

[RobDon]

Yep, only one wire runs to the power pack that sits on top of the battery, I extended it so I could tuck it away. So all there is to connect is the main battery cable, the one from the pack and the new one from the boot. The main negative terminal is now bolted to the chassis on a new ring connector.

I used 4-AWG audio power cable for both + and -, I got a kit off ebay for £15 which had 5m of power and 1m of negative 4-gauge cable.

 

[wez1981]

question is..... whats going in that space now?