Mr OCD

Active Member
May 1, 2008
1,963
4
Manchester, UK
Power delivery is jerky again between 2500-3000rpm then feels flat between 3000-4000rpm before it smooths out and pulls hard up to the rev line... keep the revs under 2500rpm and its smooth as silk...

Replaced:

N75 valve
Dump Valve (Forge 007p)
New spark plugs (re-gapped)
Air Filter
MAF

Checked VAGCOM - No fault codes

I'm pretty fed up with it to be honest so I think its time to let a specialist have a look at it - Can anyone in the NW of England recommend somewhere to take it? :confused:

Ideally someone who specialises in these engines and isnt just going to guess at what the problem is but take time to diagnose the issues and fault find.

I dont mind travelling reasonable distance - say approx 70-80 miles of Manchester.

Any recommendations?
 
Have you tried running some logs with Vagcom? This would maybe give an indication of whats wrong. Maybe try logging the MAF and boost.

Matt
 
dont have a clue about cars really but i hd this problem with a fiesta turbo but that was fine then when started was terribly jerky i never found out the problem with that but by reading ur post only thing i can think of is that if its got worse with a remap then the extra torque and power increase would be whats making it worse and the increase in boost so could be something not holding out when coming into its peak im probably way off line but just a idea feel free to laugh
 
what did the tuner or mapper say, did not they take it for a test drive or spin?

if it is jerky, then I could only suggest it is a coil pack on its way out

have you tried replacing all four coil packs? mine is a little jerky on start up in the morning, but ok once its warmed up, but does still hesitate sometimes

tis the only thing I can suggest right now. a coil pack on its way out could be faulty but does not show up as a fault on vag com as its not seen as "faulty" by the computer....but on its way out possibly..
 
Try unplugging the MAF and see how it runs. Run a fuel injector cleaner through the fuel system in case there's a blockage somewhere. Replace the coilpacks as they are a common source of failure/jerky running.

Also - make sure the Forge 007 isn't sticking open - I'd open it up, clean it out, re-grease it and re-fit.
 
what did the tuner or mapper say, did not they take it for a test drive or spin?

if it is jerky, then I could only suggest it is a coil pack on its way out

have you tried replacing all four coil packs? mine is a little jerky on start up in the morning, but ok once its warmed up, but does still hesitate sometimes

tis the only thing I can suggest right now. a coil pack on its way out could be faulty but does not show up as a fault on vag com as its not seen as "faulty" by the computer....but on its way out possibly..

Mapper noticed the problem before the remap hence did fault code check before uploading the map with only 'pressure drop... check DV' fault code present which we assumed was down to a boost leak at some point in the past as car is boosting fine and checked via VAGCOM logs.

It seems to be worse when its cold for some reason like you mention...

I've already spent the best part of £200 on new parts described above so I'm reluctant to spend nearly £150 on new coil packs 'guessing' at fixing the problems... coil packs should also show up on VAGCOM logs I would have thought? :confused:

I might try running some new logs tonight through 4th gear to see if that shows up anything...

Just spoke to Awesome GTI and they advised TB clean and realignment which I have already done ... had the TB off three times now and each time there is a little oil on the entrance of the butterfly on the TB... would this have any effect on the problems experienced?

Like said I'm getting pretty fed up with it at the moment and if its not sorted soon then I'll put it up for sale - had people tell me this is 'normal' for an LC with the hesistation problems but I simply wont accept that a modern turbo charged car behaves like this... its not acceptable.
 
Try unplugging the MAF and see how it runs. Run a fuel injector cleaner through the fuel system in case there's a blockage somewhere. Replace the coilpacks as they are a common source of failure/jerky running.

Also - make sure the Forge 007 isn't sticking open - I'd open it up, clean it out, re-grease it and re-fit.

MAF is brand new ... genuine part and done less than 500 miles... checked via VAGCOM and nice high readings...

Forge 007p is also brand new ... done less than 300 miles... :)
 
Mapper noticed the problem before the remap hence did fault code check before uploading the map with only 'pressure drop... check DV' fault code present which we assumed was down to a boost leak at some point in the past as car is boosting fine and checked via VAGCOM logs.

It seems to be worse when its cold for some reason like you mention...

I've already spent the best part of £200 on new parts described above so I'm reluctant to spend nearly £150 on new coil packs 'guessing' at fixing the problems... coil packs should also show up on VAGCOM logs I would have thought? :confused:

I might try running some new logs tonight through 4th gear to see if that shows up anything...

Just spoke to Awesome GTI and they advised TB clean and realignment which I have already done ... had the TB off three times now and each time there is a little oil on the entrance of the butterfly on the TB... would this have any effect on the problems experienced?

Like said I'm getting pretty fed up with it at the moment and if its not sorted soon then I'll put it up for sale - had people tell me this is 'normal' for an LC with the hesistation problems but I simply wont accept that a modern turbo charged car behaves like this... its not acceptable.

I think perhaps a little silly to sell the car due to this issue, as a few of us all go through these issues on this site at one point or another

if it is hesitating, then its not firing properly, which from my experience can only be the coil pack(s) on there way out

you could buy one, and then swap out each coil one by one, going for a drive in between to see if the hesitation stops, and when ever the hesitation stops, you know which is the faulty coil?
 
Doesn't matter if they're brand new, they can still stick and fail! Coilpacks are not £150.

Did you replace the gasket between the TB and manifold when you refitted it? Being worse at cold indicates an airleak because if it gets better when hot then the metal is expanding and reducing the gap.

I had an air leak that caused misfires, cutting out, etc. a new TB gasket fixed it, along with sealing the MAP sensor and MAF mating faces with instant gasket.
 
I honestly think that it's worth speaking to an independent VAG specialist, go in and dicuss the issues........maybe take them on a test drive. It may cost you an hour of their time to look over the car at some point, however, I think this is a better investment than spending your time on logging etc and money on fitting random parts.

I have no idea where in the country you are located or I would try and suggest a specialist in that area.
 
do what Rudd said, otherwise you are walking in the dark! best to take it to someone who knows their stuff, as it could be something very simple and save you any more time, hassle and money!

here are the part numbers for the Hitachi coil packs

Hitachi Coil Packs £29.99 each direct from Seat (need all parts as a complete kit)

Hitachi Coil Pack - 06B 905 115 E
Bolt & Washer - N 101 174 05
Rubber Seal (sits underneath the coil) - 058 905 261 A
 
coils dont always show up, but i would expect an intermitent missfire warning.

But if you dont want to try coil packs, If i was you id be checking all the pipe relating to the DV very carfully. Any cracks, overtight/undertight connections. Routing issues? is the vacum pipe kinked at all? When the engine moves does it kink a pipe?

i would also check the dv seal. Is the top done up? are the seals ok?
 
coils dont always show up, but i would expect an intermitent missfire warning.

But if you dont want to try coil packs, If i was you id be checking all the pipe relating to the DV very carfully. Any cracks, overtight/undertight connections. Routing issues? is the vacum pipe kinked at all? When the engine moves does it kink a pipe?

i would also check the dv seal. Is the top done up? are the seals ok?

he said he replaced the forge DV....that must have been an expensive diagnosis to replace that, or if he means he has replaced standard bosch unit with the Forge one:(

VAG specialist all the way for me, regardless of how near they are, as it will in the end save time and money to get a proper diagnosis