Votex in Cheshire (not sure how far that is.....it's all up North ;) ) think Empi5 is a big fan of their's maybe Pm him

Awesome Gti outskirts of Manchester

JBS are Chesterfield so a bit of a hike

awesome GTI all the way for me:D
 
Its not that I dont want to spend money on coil packs ... just the fact I have spent the best part of 200 notes chasing the fault and not getting anywhere even replacing a brand new genuine bosch DV with a Forge DV after being advised on here it could be this...

I'm reluctant to spend anymore money on it unless there is a very high chance it will fix the fault.

I'm far from an amateur when it comes to cars ... I used to rebuild engines when I was younger and have been into cars since I was a little boy over 20yrs ago so can fault diagnose most faults pretty quickly.

But I freely admit I'm somewhat stumped with the LC and hence I agree that its worth getting a VAG tuning specialist to give a different perspective on the problem.

Awesome GTi is less than 20mins from where I work so I'm going to get them to take a look at it ... their labour rates arent cheap but if I have to pay for an hour to diagnose the problem and it sorts it then I'll be rather pleased... its when they cant find it I'd be annoyed :D

Any thoughts on oil in the TB housing btw?
 
Car is now booked into Awesome on Wednesday... earliest can fit me in...

I'm going to run some logs tonight and post them up and you'll see why I cant find any problems with the car... :D
 
Car is now booked into Awesome on Wednesday... earliest can fit me in...

I'm going to run some logs tonight and post them up and you'll see why I cant find any problems with the car... :D

I bet its a faulty coil pack:)

if not, I am pretty stumped, some censor probably some where!
 
I bet its a faulty coil pack:)

if not, I am pretty stumped, some censor probably some where!

Ok - How can I log coil packs then? - Must be a way of checking misfires? :confused:

For My Info ...

Diagnosis work done to date:

Parts Replaced:
Diverter Valve – Replaced with new Forge 007p
N75 Boost Valve – Replaced with new OE part
MAF – Replaced with new OE part
Air Filter – Replaced with OE part
Spark plugs – Replaced with Bosch OE part
Fuel Filter – Replaced with OE part

Further Info:

• No Fault Codes present after clearing one code that was evident and hasn’t appeared since.

o ‘Pressure loss between Throttle valve and turbo (check DV)’

• Throttle body has been cleaned and realigned using VAGCOM
 
Ok - How can I log coil packs then? - Must be a way of checking misfires? :confused:

For My Info ...

Diagnosis work done to date:

Parts Replaced:
Diverter Valve – Replaced with new Forge 007p
N75 Boost Valve – Replaced with new OE part
MAF – Replaced with new OE part
Air Filter – Replaced with OE part
Spark plugs – Replaced with Bosch OE part
Fuel Filter – Replaced with OE part

Further Info:

• No Fault Codes present after clearing one code that was evident and hasn’t appeared since.

o ‘Pressure loss between Throttle valve and turbo (check DV)’

• Throttle body has been cleaned and realigned using VAGCOM

never used VAG com before so not sure what number or what exactly to log

sometimes the misfires show up. mine mis fires, but shows no error codes, strange

just wait and see what Awesome say, as I could well be wrong
 
Mapper noticed the problem before the remap hence did fault code check before uploading the map with only 'pressure drop... check DV' fault code present which we assumed was down to a boost leak at some point in the past as car is boosting fine and checked via VAGCOM logs.

Any reputable remapper would have checked for faults etc before remapping. A remap will always amplify faults...

You didnt read all the thread... :p
 
Bad assumption.

See what you were referring too now ... I didnt actually assume as I investigated the fault code and its usually down to a boost leak / faulty DV ... checked for leaks and found none - replaced the DV to be on safe side.
 
Worse when cold ... gets better as warms up.

mine stutters badly on the initial fan type warm up

hence I always leave it to drop from the high idle to normal before driving off, and then is fine

I have heard people mention it can be the coolan sensor on the pre warm up that may need cleaning or is at fault

after that, if it still stutters or jerks, then it could be a coil
 
For some extra info re coilpacks, you might like to check this SC.net thread:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=179202

Once you've read the above thread, it might be worth removing each coil to have a look at the the last letter of their part nos - you never know, your car might still have its original 'early spec' coils? For example, Nautilus posted: "Changed the remaining N-type coils with R-type. Much smoother idle now."

Also, what about the query re throttle-body gasket mentioned earlier in this thread?
 
Well I have a 60 mile round trip to do tonight so I'm going to plug the laptop in and run a load of logs ...

I'm going to log:

Groups:

003 and 118
115 and 020
031 and 032

For Coils:

014 / 015 / 016

That should give me a LOT of info to digest this evening over a beer.

I'm not too happy about doing the runs in 4th gear to redline though ... would 3rd be ok?
 
For some extra info re coilpacks, you might like to check this SC.net thread:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=179202

Once you've read the above thread, it might be worth removing each coil to have a look at the the last letter of their part nos - you never know, your car might still have its original 'early spec' coils? For example, Nautilus posted: "Changed the remaining N-type coils with R-type. Much smoother idle now."

Also, what about the query re throttle-body gasket mentioned earlier in this thread?

Thank you - I will read this now.

RE: TB gasket... it was fine ... I can use instant gasket if people insist?