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Still not happy with the LC...
- Thread starter Mr OCD
- Start date
I'll have £20 each way on a boost leak or a fuelling issue
Can you pressure test the Cupra for boost leaks? - Im still convinced its a boost leak as well...
In hindsight, if coils were the cause, wouldn't the problem occur across the whole rev range, as opposed to Mr OCD's flatspot(s)?
Also, perhaps it's worth finding/asking advice of a race team(s) that used to race Mk1 Leons in SEAT UK's old one-make race series (Cupra Cup?)? If anyone has experience of a car's many quirks, it's folks who've raced 'em.
Also, perhaps it's worth finding/asking advice of a race team(s) that used to race Mk1 Leons in SEAT UK's old one-make race series (Cupra Cup?)? If anyone has experience of a car's many quirks, it's folks who've raced 'em.
Never heard of one that covers everything
Best bet is under load on an RR with an experienced head under the bonnet in my experience.
I've heard of everything from soapy water on joints to tightening every clip, but split hoses or collapsing pipes etc etc are just plain difficult to spot
hence the RR solution.....Remove MAF, block off TIP.
Take N75 out, put a valve in N75 hole.
Attach pump to valve & pressurize with air.
Take N75 out, put a valve in N75 hole.
Attach pump to valve & pressurize with air.
As in an ordinary tyre valve? - have any pictures?
I will be doing this tommorrow hopefully as I swear its a boost leak... got my ass handed to me by a Clio Sport this morning!
I will be doing this tommorrow hopefully as I swear its a boost leak... got my ass handed to me by a Clio Sport this morning!
Have a read of this, see what you think. The problem is pretty much solved now after literley yrs of messing about with different parts. I posted this on another forum....
About two years ago our Leon started feeling sluggish when hot and a lot less torquey most of the time. I had a few issues sorted at this time and one of the parts replaced was the MAF, (replacement from gsf) the car was noticebly better (from memory!) to drive but soon after was quite similar, slow and sluggish.
Ever since i've tested various things and replaced the odd component here and there but to no avail. Just driven the car to France where the problem seemed to worsen...maybe the heat? But anyway, whilst away I ordered a second hand airbox and maf from someone on ed38 for my mk1 golf project, I assumed as it was from a TT that it was a 225 bhp model but as i opened the package I had this thought..this could be a 180 model and guess what it was! Anyway i didn't pay a lot for it so wasn't bothered.
I noticed it was the same as the Leon's maf so banged it on and took it for a drive, the car didnt really feel any different so I left it on there.
One of the things i'd noticed with the leon previously was a how I can only describe to be a loud woooshing noise when accelerating coming from the tailpipes, sounded quite nice I thought, can't remember hearing it with the old standard exhaust but since fitting a Jetex you could definatly notice it.
Anyway, after driving the leon again yesterday I note a great improvement in its performace, a lot more torque and a lack of the wooshing noise which I can only assume was the wastegate opening prematurly? Is this possible?
Can anyone shed any light, clearly it was the MAF at fault so the new one I bought years ago must have been faulty.
About two years ago our Leon started feeling sluggish when hot and a lot less torquey most of the time. I had a few issues sorted at this time and one of the parts replaced was the MAF, (replacement from gsf) the car was noticebly better (from memory!) to drive but soon after was quite similar, slow and sluggish.
Ever since i've tested various things and replaced the odd component here and there but to no avail. Just driven the car to France where the problem seemed to worsen...maybe the heat? But anyway, whilst away I ordered a second hand airbox and maf from someone on ed38 for my mk1 golf project, I assumed as it was from a TT that it was a 225 bhp model but as i opened the package I had this thought..this could be a 180 model and guess what it was! Anyway i didn't pay a lot for it so wasn't bothered.
I noticed it was the same as the Leon's maf so banged it on and took it for a drive, the car didnt really feel any different so I left it on there.
One of the things i'd noticed with the leon previously was a how I can only describe to be a loud woooshing noise when accelerating coming from the tailpipes, sounded quite nice I thought, can't remember hearing it with the old standard exhaust but since fitting a Jetex you could definatly notice it.
Anyway, after driving the leon again yesterday I note a great improvement in its performace, a lot more torque and a lack of the wooshing noise which I can only assume was the wastegate opening prematurly? Is this possible?
Can anyone shed any light, clearly it was the MAF at fault so the new one I bought years ago must have been faulty.
It's not unusual for brand new ones to also be faulty.
Problem is with MAF's they rarely stop working completely which would be easy to find, they just seem to under read or read erratic (sp?) amounts.
They seem to suffer with vibration and aftermarket induction kits and tbh they are a bit of a lottery
Mr OCD, I had similar problems on my AUM (Same as AUQ mechanicaly) Golf 1.8t.
I had the pressure drop fault you mentioned earlier in the thread, but cleared it and it never returned. If you haven't checked this already I strongly suggest you check the rubber hose which runs from the underside of the inlet manifold (O/S) to the N/S of the engine. This hose is directly connected to the manifold and therefore sees full boost pressure. Mine was split baddly and leaking boost, particularly noticable at 2000 - 4000 rpm on acceleration.
In the first photo the hose is removed, but it runs from next to the dipstick to the green tube on the right.
You cannot realy see the damage without removing the hose, as the damage occured where the hose runs throught a big rubber band which holds it in place.
I had the pressure drop fault you mentioned earlier in the thread, but cleared it and it never returned. If you haven't checked this already I strongly suggest you check the rubber hose which runs from the underside of the inlet manifold (O/S) to the N/S of the engine. This hose is directly connected to the manifold and therefore sees full boost pressure. Mine was split baddly and leaking boost, particularly noticable at 2000 - 4000 rpm on acceleration.
In the first photo the hose is removed, but it runs from next to the dipstick to the green tube on the right.
You cannot realy see the damage without removing the hose, as the damage occured where the hose runs throught a big rubber band which holds it in place.
Remove the plastic cover at the front of the engine.
It's been a while, but IIRC you need to remove 2 screws which hold the mounting for the N249 and another valve plus all their plumbing.
You will need to disconnect one electrical connection on the drivers side end of the assembly.
You do NOT need to remove all the plumbing etc, just move it a bit to get better access. Once you see the hose you need to remove the hose clips at each end and slide it out of the large black rubber strap which holds it against a pipe behind it.
I think that is about it. It should take no longer than 10-15 mins to remove it. It actually rots from the inside with oil sat inside it, just the same as the Y shape breather hose which connects to the cam cover.
It's been a while, but IIRC you need to remove 2 screws which hold the mounting for the N249 and another valve plus all their plumbing.
You will need to disconnect one electrical connection on the drivers side end of the assembly.
You do NOT need to remove all the plumbing etc, just move it a bit to get better access. Once you see the hose you need to remove the hose clips at each end and slide it out of the large black rubber strap which holds it against a pipe behind it.
I think that is about it. It should take no longer than 10-15 mins to remove it. It actually rots from the inside with oil sat inside it, just the same as the Y shape breather hose which connects to the cam cover.
Well spent some time on this ... no problems can be found so last night I had the map removed from the car.
It drives A1 now ...
Crap map...
It drives A1 now ...
Crap map...
Well spent some time on this ... no problems can be found so last night I had the map removed from the car.
It drives A1 now ...
Crap map...
Interesting, as you said on the 1st page of this thread that the car hesitated before the remap
Well spent some time on this ... no problems can be found so last night I had the map removed from the car.
It drives A1 now ...
Crap map...
oh dear
are you happy this was all caused by the map? at least its solved.
hope this dosnt put you off mapping. first ive heard ever going wrong because of a bad remap.
i think the hesitation he had before the map was the part throttle hesitation many lc/lcrs get around 2500-3000rpm. mines always done this map or no map.
the problem seems to have changed after mapping, i dont think its related to the above.
if it was me id go to a known seat mapper such as jabbasport, if the car plays up they would at least have an idea as to why.
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