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This is how mine works - Its like a self tapping bolt. It came with the kit I got with the boost guage from Allard. Its the brass ended fitting in the inlet manifold and the vacuum pipe runs into the car behind the glovebox and up to the dash. 
Edit: You do not need to touch the vacuum lines at all.
Edit: You do not need to touch the vacuum lines at all.
Triple D
Guest
wrc said:
on a tdi you only need a boost gauge not one that shows vac. Derv engines dont produce negative boost when u lift off.
All the vac pipes on your engine are run form a pump driven by your engine, which are all seperate from the boost pipes
only petrol engines produce vac while off boost. your gauge will only have one connection on it
just coonect it as shown above, the inlet is the best place to do this. but your gauge will never go negative
hope i have exsplained that correct !!
spaniels fr said:
Not found a way to remove it entirely. Its blanked off with a big bit of metal at the moment, which in turn keeps the engine light on as it wants some EGR and its getting zilch. Heard I might be able to alter the vacuum pipe end a bit to allow a little air through it and fool the ECU in to thinking its doing a little EGR processing.
It might be there in body, but the EGR is doing nothing at all.
Oh, and guages do hit negative. Mine flicks down to -0.6 bar when turning it off.
Triple D
Guest
Oh so that will be why my engine light is on then, because i haven't got a EGR. So is there anotherway to get rid of the engine light?devonutopia said:Not found a way to remove it entirely. Its blanked off with a big bit of metal at the moment, which in turn keeps the engine light on as it wants some EGR and its getting zilch. Heard I might be able to alter the vacuum pipe end a bit to allow a little air through it and fool the ECU in to thinking its doing a little EGR processing.
It might be there in body, but the EGR is doing nothing at all.
Oh, and guages do hit negative. Mine flicks down to -0.6 bar when turning it off.
Where is the sensor that measures the EGR gasses? Im wondering how the engine knows its not getting any EGR, i thought once the solenoid is still connected it shouldnt be a problem.
I too got rid of my EGR through Allard also but i dont have any engine lights etc.
At the back of the "race pipe" there is a handy piece where a boost gauge just fits.
I too got rid of my EGR through Allard also but i dont have any engine lights etc.
At the back of the "race pipe" there is a handy piece where a boost gauge just fits.
I believe its N75 related. The precise fault which comes up is something along the lines of "EGR - pressure range exceeded" - which basically means it wants pressure and is getting nothing. One idea put to me by someone else was to remove the vacuum line off the EGR, tape it to the chassis / out the way of crud accumulation, and just pinch the end together to allow a little bit of air. This way the vacuum box is getting some air and thinks the EGR is working. THe best way to do this bung was shove a big bit of plastic in the end, then drill a 1mm hole in it. Should keep gunk out the vacuum system then.
stoneyfordNI said:@micky
you do know your dipstick is missingcould be messy
LOL, yeah i always take it out when i remove the engine cover, its easier in mine.
Looks like that would work. Shouldn't affect the boost sensor right next to it either. Hope you find a good way to route it back into the cabin from there as you're down the front of the engine bay there. I suspect running it up under the coolant, under the inlet manifold and along the bulkhead would be the best way (keeping it away from the heat of the engine)
wrc said:
Sorry for getting involved in this so late but only just seen this thread!!
Have you spoken to Paulo about this ?? I was looking at getting a gauge fitted to mine and he reccommended getting one of these
http://www.42draftdesigns.com/product/42003.htm
as the gauges "can be quite noisy due to vibration".
I tried unsuccessfully to get one from Ireland and have been too busy since to get back on the case
Think i might have to go the 'PSE' route so that it actually gets done!! )Don't know whether this thread is of any help ??
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30111&highlight=boost+guage
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That won't be any good on a diesel as you can't just "T" into a pipe, you have to tap into the inlet manifold pipe form the intercooler or from where wrc is doing it from, the boost sensor.
In theory you can tap in anywhere from the pipe coming out the bottom of the turbo, right to the inlet though? All is at the same pressure isn't it? Not sure if the pressure will be higher initially by the turbo, so perhaps a readout from the inlet is slightly more realistic to what the engine is getting.
but you can swap the restrictor bit onto a union piece. If you need one, I might still have one from when I had a mechanical gauge...will have to look. Mines taking of the intake like devonutopia.
devonutopia said:In theory you can tap in anywhere from the pipe coming out the bottom of the turbo, right to the inlet though? All is at the same pressure isn't it? Not sure if the pressure will be higher initially by the turbo, so perhaps a readout from the inlet is slightly more realistic to what the engine is getting.
nah you want it after the intercooler as these cause pressure drops due to the drop in temperature and flow , as close to the inlet is good .
Triple D
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