Tom0311's LCR - SOLD and now driving a 3ltr v6 GTV

[LCR 225]

Yeah I looked into the Toyo one as well. Not to sure how easy its going to be to fit but hopefully it wont be to difficult. Posted the link to the forge one in my thread

 

[8bit]

Due to the nipple being recessed into the cap even if you get a small jubilee (which i did previously) you clamp on the fatter part and not below
You buy cable ties at pennies so i view them like oil, a consumable, 2 or 3 cable ties over a year is nothing
The OE ear clips work on the same principle - clamp, cut off, replace

Yep, a few cable ties a year isn't going to break the bank but like I said, if you've still got the rubber hose the cutting them is likely to score the hose, don't have that problem with jubilees. But yes, it's difficult to get the jubilee to grip very far down the nipple. More than one way to skin a cat, as they say

The last couple of times I've taken my DV off I've actually just removed the two larger hoses and unscrewed the top

 

[tyrer]

DV settles in and becomes louder mate.

I noticed a further difference with the pipercross panel filter in also.

 

[tom0311]

Yeah I looked into the Toyo one as well. Not to sure how easy its going to be to fit but hopefully it wont be to difficult. Posted the link to the forge one in my thread

I saw, thanks don't have to decide just yet but for a ton cheaper the toyo looks good. If it means losing fogs I'll give it a miss though

DV settles in and becomes louder mate.

I noticed a further difference with the pipercross panel filter in also.

Got a bit jetex cone in mine, which is pretty loud as it is. Might try the 007P in reverse to see if it really does sound like a 'gay bird' not overly fussed about sound I'm just glad I got one in now.

 

[8bit]

I saw, thanks don't have to decide just yet but for a ton cheaper the toyo looks good. If it means losing fogs I'll give it a miss though

I've never fitted an FMIC yet but my understanding was that it is possible to keep the fogs with the toyosports kit. Have a good search of the mk1 Leon section, I'm not at home right now but I *think* I have a link in my bookmarks to someone's thread where they managed to fit the toyo IC and keep their fogs.

Got a bit jetex cone in mine, which is pretty loud as it is. Might try the 007P in reverse to see if it really does sound like a 'gay bird' not overly fussed about sound I'm just glad I got one in now.

It's definitely more noticeable in reverse, there's a sort of metallic ping or chirp noise when you come off open throttle. I got sick of it eventually, the car is noisy enough for me just with the cone filter. I also found my valve was sticking in the open position so did some more searching and turns out a few people found that after a while running in reverse that their valves weren't snapping shut again, leading to increased service intervals for the valve.

That said, a lot of folk run them in reverse with no problems but since sorting mine out and running it in normal orientation again I've had no further problems with it sticking. However, bear in mind that in reverse the boost pressure is pushing directly against the spring's force so over time it could soften the spring to the point where it can't hold the piston shut right so it'll always be allowing a little air pressure out of the system when you don't want it to. That will mean replacing the spring and/or adding shims to preload it.

 

[tom0311]

Put my cheap little heatshield on today, thanks to super_electric for showing his off in his RR. Probably get mixed opinions but I think it looks cool and it was mega cheap! Took the sound proofing off the bonnet as well and it sounds much better I tried the 007P in reverse, took it for a drive round the roads by my house and it was embarrassing to say the least. Tom you were right it sounds like a very gay bird, people were turning round looking at me like I had something wrong with the car lol. Switched it straight back to normal afterwards. Off to get some new tyres now, will put pics of the heatshield on in a bit.

 

[tom0311]

 

[tom0311]

Woo hoo! I just spoke to my insurer and turns out I've got 5 years no claims rather than 4 so my premiums dropped from £93 a month to £65 and they're refunding me £205 asap! Awesome

 

[t0m]

Good news there Tom.

Now get that £205 spent on the car

 

[tom0311]

I think it'll go towards basic survival mate, food and fuel! I'm totally skint it's pretty much saved me this month. But now I've got the bug I'm sure some of it will go towards the TIP.

 

[tom0311]

Nothing exciting, just new side lights.

Before - this is with the old set of HID's and the crappy sidelight led's they supplied for free.

After - faulty flickering (and sometimes failing to turn on!) HID's replaced and new 4led sidelights I spotted on another RR from a toledo.

Looks much better. More even beams and brighter sidelights (hard to see in the pic really, but much much brighter when on by themselves. The old led ones were hardly noticeable.

Also worried my apiro heatshield is restricting air flow, performance slightly down since fitting that and the 007P. Need to get a DIY cold air feed in there as soon as I can.

 

[tom0311]

So I fitted a DIY short shifter just now, took about 10 minutes once my ancient drill battery had charged. Really nice short action but wayyyy to stiff for my liking. It felt wrong so I loosened up the nut a little, to allow smoother shift but it still was too stiff and notchy. Second gear even popped out once, so I reverted straight back to normal Followed the guide too, just don't know why it felt so stiff and horrible.

 

[t0m]

So I fitted a DIY short shifter just now, took about 10 minutes once my ancient drill battery had charged. Really nice short action but wayyyy to stiff for my liking. It felt wrong so I loosened up the nut a little, to allow smoother shift but it still was too stiff and notchy. Second gear even popped out once, so I reverted straight back to normal Followed the guide too, just don't know why it felt so stiff and horrible.

My Forge one seemed more notchy at 1st, but it's settled in a bit.

I do want to have a good check over the gearbox this year though as you can adjust the settings quite easily from what I saw on this video by an American guy. I will try find it, unless someone else can before me on here.

 

[Ronin225]

Reset the linkages by locking the in car lever in place and slackening sprung loaded ends back
Fit short shifter and release tension on springs then remove locking pin inside car
This is how i will do mine and should still select gears easily
Will however be a bit stiffer due to the reduced mechanical advantage

 

[tom0311]

Reset the linkages by locking the in car lever in place and slackening sprung loaded ends back
Fit short shifter and release tension on springs then remove locking pin inside car
This is how i will do mine and should still select gears easily
Will however be a bit stiffer due to the reduced mechanical advantage

Did that mate, still stiff as shite. Confused why The shift was so nice and short but way too stiff and 'tight'. Disappointed

 

[tom0311]

Had another go at the short shift today. Did it all exactly the same as last week and it feels a little better. Good enough to keep this time round anyway. Only problem this time is when slowing down and down shifting e.g. coming up to a roundabout, 2nd gear sometimes slips out.

 

[tom0311]

Well I'm all vagcom'd up and sat on my drive fault scanning. First address, 2 faults Hope I don't end up with too many! It was popping up with the addresses it was scanning but I got a quick glimpse and it said boost pressure and something to do with n249. Maybe a boost leak... let's see what the final list is.

 

[tom0311]

Ok so it's done the auto scan... results :-

VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N

Chassis Type: 1M - Seat Leon
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
 
Address 01     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 1ML 906 032 A  
   Component: 1.8l R4/5VT         0001
   Coding: 10510
   Shop #: WSC 00000
   VSSZZZ1MZ4R118615     SEZ7Z0D2455934
2 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
            P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
            P1200 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

Address 03     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 8N0 907 379 G  
   Component: ESP FRONT MK60      0101
   Coding: 0019469
   Shop #: WSC 00001
No fault code found.

Address 08     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 1M0 820 043 E  
   Component: 1M-CLIMATRON
   Note: Excessive Comm Errors

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 17     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 1M0 920 922 F  
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V05
   Coding: 05424
   Shop #: WSC 00000
   VSSZZZ1MZ4R118615     SEZ7Z0D2455934
No fault code found.

Address 19     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 6N0 909 901    
   Component: Gateway K<->CAN    0001
   Coding: 00006
   Shop #: WSC 06402
No fault code found.

Address 46     -------------------------------------------------------
   Controller: 1C0 959 799 F  
   Component: A7 Komfortgerát HLO 0003
   Coding: 00258
   Shop #: WSC 06402
1 Fault Found:
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Rear Right (F223)
            27-00 - Implausible Signal

End   -------------------------------------------------------

Can't be the diverter valve causing the problem - I've just checked the hoses are right onto it and it's a brand new forge 007P. Faulty N249? Worth bypassing?

 

[t0m]

Bypass the N249 mate! Then scan again

 

[tom0311]

Bypass the N249 mate! Then scan again

I've searched on how to do it, looks a bit daunting for a total beginner I'll clear the codes, take it for a drive and hope it goes away If not then I'll bypass!