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I also had this issue and there was tension on the sideskirt, due to the jacking point on the car being crushed over the years. By trimming the sideskirt, I was able to relieve the tension and the cover clipped in again no issue

Before:
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After
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same as mine, jacking point was crushed on both sides, the lip ended up just coming away in my hands so i got the lip fully replaced on both sides and then the skirt sat perfect
 

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I can believe it mate, there is no methodical approach, just replace, replace & hope for the best.
I now have my car home & big thanks to the tow truck driver, he got him home effortlessly & efficiently, even said what a lovely car it was & he had one back in the day 👍. Unfortunately I am cheesed off with the garage, talk about disrespectful. The centre wheel cap was still on the passenger seat, this was like it in August & now it's missing it's front jack point cover & the rear hangs down, no longer clipping. I have complained, asking for it back or replaced, but I doubt Ill hear back. They film the cars on arrival for proof, so I made that clear it is their damage & I have a photo too.View attachment 55436View attachment 55435View attachment 55437
piss take and them covers are not cheap now but the one not clipping might still be ok as i have had the same issue, all i did was spray silicon on the tabs then they click in fine as they can be stiff to get in and they should have lanyards on them, mine broke so used garden wire, they must still have the cap and cover in the garage as you want that wheel cover back also as you cant get them new,
 
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same as mine, jacking point was crushed on both sides, the lip ended up just coming away in my hands so i got the lip fully replaced on both sides and then the skirt sat perfect
that happened to me luck no rust as there was unseal still there but i had to straighten the sill lips then added the old type underseal now the skirt don't look bellowed , told the garage as wasn't happy and do so if they take the wheels off, the gimp who did it is not there now
 
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that happened to me luck no rust as there was unseal still there but i had to straighten the sill lips then added the old type underseal now the skirt don't look bellowed , told the garage as wasn't happy and do so if they take the wheels off, the gimp who did it is not there now
yeah whenever it needs to go to a garage i tell them not to use the sills now, always use the chassis legs and rear beam, whenever i jack it up myself i drive it my plastic ramps first them use the chassis legs. when i got the sill lips fixed i wire brushed all surface rust and used vactan rust treatment on the whole underneath then when that dried i used dinitrol underseal and touch wood its been good since, 3 mot's with no advisories so far since then.
 
yeah whenever it needs to go to a garage i tell them not to use the sills now, always use the chassis legs and rear beam, whenever i jack it up myself i drive it my plastic ramps first them use the chassis legs. when i got the sill lips fixed i wire brushed all surface rust and used vactan rust treatment on the whole underneath then when that dried i used dinitrol underseal and touch wood its been good since, 3 mot's with no advisories so far since then.
it is a lift point but they don't use the correct lift puck as they have a V in the middle , you can buy them for your jack at home made of hard rubber and you will have no problem i did have the old style ramps but the hit the bumpers on newer cars and there is hydraulic ramps but dam expensive but verygood , heard good things about dinitrol but i just use the waxoil underseal as it still stops the problem as some of the rust treatment can easy wash off and need doing every year
 
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the plastic ramps are good, they have a more gradual incline so easier to get the car up, might be a problem with front splitters though. i do have some of the v shaped rubbers for my axle stands, will need to get a couple for my jacks.

the dinitrol is like waxoyl as in its a black oily substance that you use a spray gun with but it goes harder over time so its not always that sticky mess when you touch it, ive always used vactan for rust as its made for the marine industry and if its good for boats in constant contact with water then it should be good with cars, its also a primer so can be painted over when dry, ive used it on various cars over the last 12 years now and i can recommend it (although i think its changed name now to aquasteel)
 
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the plastic ramps are good, they have a more gradual incline so easier to get the car up, might be a problem with front splitters though. i do have some of the v shaped rubbers for my axle stands, will need to get a couple for my jacks.

the dinitrol is like waxoyl as in its a black oily substance that you use a spray gun with but it goes harder over time so its not always that sticky mess when you touch it, ive always used vactan for rust as its made for the marine industry and if its good for boats in constant contact with water then it should be good with cars, its also a primer so can be painted over when dry, ive used it on various cars over the last 12 years now and i can recommend it (although i think its changed name now to aquasteel)
used it years waxoil underseal well i had a tin for years and waxoil so not run out yet and it just works .. that vactan sounds good as i use a rust converter for other jobs then paint on outdoor jobs .. you got a link for that ?