If it was that serious it would be well known within the 1.8t community. I’ve never heard of anyone having seriously bad issues at all. I’ll keep an eye out now though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
what have you done to your car today ?
- Thread starter seatcupramad23
- Start date
If it was that serious it would be well known within the 1.8t community. I’ve never heard of anyone having seriously bad issues at all. I’ll keep an eye out now though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All do your self's a favour remove them roof rail inserts and wash them out and wax , just seen a bit of rust this weekend and removed both and i never thought it was that easy as some cars there clipped in theses are not, both were full of dirt and mud, cleaned out and there was rust due too water holding over the years, cleaned it off and treated then used rust beater, galv spry as undercoat and matched paint that i had from arch i did ages back then G3 and ultimate compound then wax , wish i knew the rails could come off that easy as then it would not off gone that bad, glad i got it sooner than later
Converted the car back to closed circuit instead of v2a.
Itching to get hold of the original setup to see if any of it needs replacing.
Watching a load of silicone pipes on ebay to use or is oe best?
Got my insurance for the next year in the post
Itching to get hold of the original setup to see if any of it needs replacing.
Watching a load of silicone pipes on ebay to use or is oe best?
Got my insurance for the next year in the post
Last edited:
Remembered to shove some bubble wrap around the offside boot strut before driving home today and didn't have any knocking sounds on the way. Had a look at the bottom of it, and it definitely looks like it's not as healthy as it should be. I've got to drive to Crawley tomorrow for my Covid vaccine, so will put the bubble wrap back, and if it doesn't make any noise, I'll buy some new struts. They're only about £15, so they're not going to break the bank, and anything that solves that annoying knocking sound is worth every penny.
There's probably a guide somewhere, but if anyone has any tips for taking them off, that'd be great.
There's probably a guide somewhere, but if anyone has any tips for taking them off, that'd be great.
A small flat head screwdriver and slide off the metal clip from both ends and then just pull them off and keep a hold off the tailgate just in case it wants to drop when one strut is removed put new one on and move round to other side and repeat 2 minutes off a job
Just mind your head
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just mind your head
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
one thing i did not have to do as its not metallic its in the paint mix, lacquer is a dam pain and weather has tobe bang on, checking all rear lights now after that as sometimes you can get leaks from what I've read , first one m8 bolt missing and a stud thats fixed in rear light the plastic cracked so used resin to set stud over night and sealed the seals that were coming off, some crap behind them i can tell you.. but don't want sneaky rust.
my boot was sticking and thought the struts were gone but they opened fully, only reason i noticed as i cracked my head on boot, proper spilt head open dam bloody all overplace and hurt, anyway i removed both one at a time propping up boot , like said dead easy and cleaned the knuckle joints then added copper grease and refit, they open fully now and i don't have to wear a hard hat lol, take it £15 there aftermarket as I've seen gen on ebay for allot dearer
The struts definitely aren't as strong as they used to be, so I'm just putting an order in now.
While the strut was wrapped in bubble wrap today though, I could still hear the sound. It can't be anything related to the suspension and it sounds more like a tap than a creak, so I'm starting to wonder if there's a wiring loom or a hose that could be knocking against the body. It does tend to be when the car jolts or goes over bumps, but it's not every time, which is why I don't think it's anything to do with the suspension, as that would probably happen every time the car hit a bump.
When I've got the inclination, I might take off the shroud in the boot and see if there's anything loose there, or at least wrap things up or tape things down if I need to, but if anyone knows what's hiding behind the offside rear panel, that'd be really handy.
While the strut was wrapped in bubble wrap today though, I could still hear the sound. It can't be anything related to the suspension and it sounds more like a tap than a creak, so I'm starting to wonder if there's a wiring loom or a hose that could be knocking against the body. It does tend to be when the car jolts or goes over bumps, but it's not every time, which is why I don't think it's anything to do with the suspension, as that would probably happen every time the car hit a bump.
When I've got the inclination, I might take off the shroud in the boot and see if there's anything loose there, or at least wrap things up or tape things down if I need to, but if anyone knows what's hiding behind the offside rear panel, that'd be really handy.
Everything's where it should be in the boot, but it can't hurt to have another look. It's easier than stripping everything down, that's for sure. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the wheel arch. I had it repaired a few years back and it could be something as simple as something not being put back on properly. One thing's for sure, it's going to drive me crazy until I get it fixed. My dad is the kind of person who'd send a car back to the dealership if there were knocks or creaks, and it looks like I've inherited that.
on the boot lid there is adjustable bumper stops on edge have you checked them as they can move, also on the rear were the boot closes there is two hard rubber guide wedges for the boot lid as the boot has the hard rubber guides as well think there for the lid not to go two far down so you don't get knocking, the screws can loosen off as mine have look at them never got the metallic noise you say though but worth looking at, I've adjusted mine to fully to top but you need torx bits.
Went to B&Q today and loaded up the boot with a couple of 100l bags of compost and noticed that the knocking sound wasn't there anymore, so it might well be something to do with the shocks. They're the original ones so they're past due for a change anyway.
At the same time, I noticed my fuel filler was standing a bit proud of the bodywork and when I opened it, the rubber/plastic surround felt pretty loose, so it could even be something to do with that.
Give it a few weeks and I'll have the whole rear end stripped down.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At the same time, I noticed my fuel filler was standing a bit proud of the bodywork and when I opened it, the rubber/plastic surround felt pretty loose, so it could even be something to do with that.
Give it a few weeks and I'll have the whole rear end stripped down.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What I'm meant to be doing: Sorting out the test engine so I can mock up boost pipes/new alternator mount/oil filter relocate/intercooler mount/rad mounts.
What I'm actually doing: Disappearing down a wiring rabbit hole as I try to figure out what wiring I can get rid of and what I need to relocate because who would be dunb enough to put an ECU in one of the wettest parts of the car?
Oh, and I don't need to look at the wiring till way after the other stuff
What I'm actually doing: Disappearing down a wiring rabbit hole as I try to figure out what wiring I can get rid of and what I need to relocate because who would be dunb enough to put an ECU in one of the wettest parts of the car?
Oh, and I don't need to look at the wiring till way after the other stuff
Luv my car again!!!!!!!!
So managed to get the passenger door open by removing the interior handle and pulling on the cable.
Thought it was just sticking so reconnected it and put back together and guess what - when I locked/unlocked car the bl**dy door wouldn’t open
So handle off again, door card off, prised out rubber grommet at rear of door and found problem: the cable end had popped out of the door module bracket, only allowing the cable to move a wee amount. Popped the rubber bit back into the bracket and I now have my door opening as it should
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So managed to get the passenger door open by removing the interior handle and pulling on the cable.
Thought it was just sticking so reconnected it and put back together and guess what - when I locked/unlocked car the bl**dy door wouldn’t open
So handle off again, door card off, prised out rubber grommet at rear of door and found problem: the cable end had popped out of the door module bracket, only allowing the cable to move a wee amount. Popped the rubber bit back into the bracket and I now have my door opening as it should
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar threads
